1997 Ford Ranger XLT 2.3L I-4 from North America
A very reliable truck I would drive to anywhere in the country at this very moment
At 50,000 miles or so the air conditioner was not cooling properly. I took it in to the dealer, and after diagnosis, the Dryer was leaking. An extended warranty I purchased when I bought the truck used covered all costs ($300).
More recently, the dome light began to stay on after the engine was shut off/door closed, and when the engine was first started when I go somewhere. The light will usually go off after 15 minutes or so when the engine is off due to the built-in safety. When the engine is running, the light will go off after a few minutes. Some research on my part revealed a stuck switch in the door jam. My 1988 Lincoln Town Car did this also, but the switch was actually a button on that car.
I pulled the fuse controlling the dome/map/glove box lights. It also controls the 4x4 system, but my truck is a 2wd.
Overall, it has been a great truck. I am fairly disappointed in the gas mileage. It very well should get better than it does. My truck gets on average 21MPG, no matter what I do or where I drive. Its about twice the mileage my Lincoln got though. It got an average of 12MPG.
The truck is seriously underpowered. I would recommend to others to opt for the V-6 engines.
Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes
Review Date: 4th April, 2003
1st May 2003, 21:58
The reason everyone's door ajar light is staying on, or dome light is staying on... is due to door sensors being dirty. A simple cleaning solution will take care of this problem, but finding the sensor is the task. I was using some WD 40 which worked well for a while, but later learned it actually made it worse.. so find a good cleansing solution out there, and the problem will be fixed. Hope this is helpful.
5th Jul 2004, 22:11
I have owned my '97 Ranger XLT standard cab truck since new (2/97). It has a 3.0 L V6 motor with manual transmission and 41.000 miles on the odometer.
Other than the standard Ranger problem regarding the wiper control (they have a tendency to come on unexpectedly or won't shut off immediately after taking control to "OFF"; it must be first taken to "HIGH" then to "OFF") and a unusual in-leakage of fuel in the gas tank fuel float (it's brass - go figure! Float appears replaceable alone - don't spend $180.00 for new float/pump assembly if you don't have to!) it's been a good little work truck.
Now to find out how to retrofit an A/C system into it (didn't need it in Seattle, now I'm in the desert.).
14th Apr 2011, 02:42
Try brake pad cleaner. The reason the WD40 made it worse is WD 40 has oil residue in it and that's not good for electronic parts. You need something that is oil free and a good cleaner that will dissipate right away. Brake cleaner will do that.