My dome light will not go off. I don't have the door chime thing or the phantom wipers everyone speakes of, but the light is annoying enough. I've taken the bulbs out to solve the problem, but it sucks not having a light. after just spending $2000 to rplace a cracked cylinder head and bad head gasket I'm not about to drop more money on an electrical problem. this is the first and last ford I will ever own.
I have the same problem with my 95 Ranger. I also have had two friends with the exact same problem with the chime. I fixed mine years ago by simply cutting the black wire that goes from the cab through to the door. The chime is gone, but the door ajar light stays on, and I also had to remove the domelight.
Its amazing this issue never resulted in a recall. I guess Ford would rather have you pay S120 plus labor to fix it.
Spray the door latch in both doors with WD-40 to end the "ding" and dome light problem. I’ve had to do it twice, about 6 months apart. If anyone has a problem with door locks or ignition switch, spray key with WD-40 and immediately insert and twist. I learned this after I replaced an ignition switch.
I have a 95 Ranger (115,000) and my son has a 96 (125,000).
Both vehicles had the same door chime/dome light problem.
After trying many of the above "fixes", I found that WD-40 was a temp fix. However, I decided to try spraying an electrical degreaser (heavily) through the latch mechanism and allowing it to dry for 30 minutes. I then sprayed a silicone lubricant heavily through the latch opening. Make sure that you exercise the mechanism while cleaning and lubricating. The problem is gone from both vehicles for more than 15 months. No disassembly required.
Is this a joke? A few drops of engine oil on each door latch assembly will instantly stop all interior noise and lighting problems.
I had similar problems with a 1995 ranger I recently purchased for my son. When I got it, the dome light and map light bulbs were missing, windshield wipers didn't work, nor did the door chime or key warning chime. I installed dome light bulbs - nothing, so I took it to a local garage and they diagnosed it as being a bad GEM module. Module replaced ($200. for the part available only from Ford) At this point everything worked, but the dome and map lights wouldn't turn off. After reading suggestions made on this site I soaked the latch mechanisms heavily with WD40. Now lights go off when door is closed. Thanks to all who post here.
WD40 on door latches helped with the door ajar illuminated in cluster panel and dome light staying on issue.
Thanks for the info!
For that matter:
Wow! I recently bought a 95 Ranger 2WD, and I have the same problem. Wipers are going on for no reason. I mess with the on/off switch, and they stay off for different lengths of time. My dome light stays on (pulled the bulb). As for the chime? I guess, I haven't one (at all).
I recently charged my A.C., and I noticed that the cold air only comes out the defroster vents.
I have been a mechanic for 30 years, and always a Ford man. I only blame Ford for not designing their foreign parts. Don't get me wrong, I also own 3 Mazda's. 1 truck bought new in 86, and 2 sedans. Think about this. Ever see true Fords with these problems? I thank you all for your output, sincerely.
As for my fix, I'll design my own replacement parts.
Unbelievable, I just bought a '95 Ranger, and the only problems were the two that have been discussed here: wiper's having a mind of their own and the dome light staying on. I fixed the dome light by spraying the driver's door locking mechanism with silicone spray (better than WD-40). It worked better instantly. I then found a picture by picture description as to how to take apart the wiper control. Go to: http://www.fordf150.net/howto/fix-intermittent-wiper-problem.php.
I did exactly as described and it worked perfectly. It even cured my windshield sprayer. I thought the motor was out.
Noise irritated? Remove the noisemaker: Process works with every vehicle. Mine is a 2001 Ford Ranger:
Ford knows you will try to take the flashing airbag light bulb, and the flashing check engine light bulb out of the back of your instrument panel. When you do, the CHIME feature of the truck will surprise you with a brand NEW noise that will never shut up and will never go away, much like a determined Sasquatch in heat. There are two solutions: Take the truck to FORD to fix it or reach for your toolbox for a no-cost fix:
Take out the centre of the instrument panel starting at the bottom, by taking off the passenger airbag switch panel cover (friction fit), and then take out the two passenger airbag switch panel screws. Partially take out the radio console by removing 2 more screws. Partially take out the air vent duct by taking out the one or two screws. Move them both aside so you can get access to the screw below the 1 x 4 x 5 inch music box that sits to the left of the radio. Take that screw out, disconnect the two plugs of the music box, and remove the music box. Yes, it has a more technical name. Open up the music box and locate the round component that looks like a short stack of quarters. Open up a beer, this is where it gets fun. Delicately, with the fine motor skills of an experienced diamond cutter, pick up your 2 pound sledgehammer. OK, just kidding. Use a medium sized common screwdriver, peel away about 4 or 5 layers from the centre of the round component (the noisemaker). In other words, gut the noisemaker. Put the removed pieces of the noisemaker on a stone, and smash them with the sledgehammer, just in case.
Reassemble, and you're done. Ford hasn't learned to deal with people who are more tenacious than their engineering staff.
Ford also hasn't figured out that after a truck is 5 years old, it's nothing more to the owner than a simple farm truck. No one who owns a farm truck could give a rats about flashing lights and fancy Martha Stewart-approved chime systems. After 5 years, those features need to self-destruct. We don't care for systems that tell us we have left the keys in the ignition of the farm truck we never lock. When we look down at the PASS mark of the emission test, we could care less if the check engine light is reporting yet another false alarm. There is no requirement for an SRS airbag system when the farm truck is not going to be city driven. There is no need to panic about flashing lights when the internet tells you false codes are a widely-known problem with every vehicle in this model and year.
The 2001 farm truck I just bought has a fraction of the miles on the car I drive to town. The car needs the airbag system working. The farm truck doesn't need squat. It's happy as a clam with the modification, and absolutely everything on the farm truck works.
There is nothing more irritating than a flashing light that sequences twice, then stays on permanently, throughout the trip, except, perhaps, for the stabbing irritation of the SRS airbag chime, that will begin again, and again, and again, and again, from time to time, leaving you in silence only briefly, then returning again, and again, and again, and again, in a feeble attempt to manipulate or embarrass you into making a service appointment.