23rd Feb 2014, 12:29
First check that the actuator is actually still connected to the locking mechanism.
1st Jun 2014, 02:25
I have the same problem on both L/H doors. After investigation , I found that both locking units' little plastic shafts, that are driven from the electric motors, have snapped.
6th Jun 2014, 11:21
Had the same problem. I fixed it by unscrewing the latches on the door, and flicking back the lockable clip... 5-10 minute job. Cheers.
2nd Jul 2014, 10:09
Hi, we are having the same issue with our car, and no one can find what the issue is. Did you ever find what it was?
23rd Sep 2014, 02:51
Had the vibration problem with our TX; had the brakes changed, and the problem went away. It turned out to be a leak on the brake pipe on one side that burst, and when we had it changed, the problem went away. I was told it was the ABS coming on intermittently because of a change of pressure on the brakes.
23rd Sep 2014, 02:57
We have a Ford Territory TX. The oil light comes on when stopping at traffic lights or when coming to a stop. It goes off when driving. It also comes on when reversing. The oil level is full. Any ideas what causes this? The car seems to run OK at all other times.
4th Oct 2014, 07:37
I have a 2004 TX and have a leaky noise from the catalytic converter. All the exhaust gaskets have been changed. Anyone know why the converter is so noisy??
17th Dec 2014, 21:15
You're not alone. My 05 with 140k does the same thing. The light comes on at traffic lights when the engine temp is at running temp. If I put it in neutral from drive, the engine revs lift enough to make the light go out. I tried changing the oil thickness from 10-30 up to 10-40, and it made the problem happen less often. Try it. Otherwise it's either:
1. A worn oil pump.
2. A blockage in the oil system somewhere.
3. A faulty oil pressure sender.
I still want mine to go away completely, so I'll let you know if I'm successful.
20th Apr 2015, 03:32
I have a jammed front passenger seat belt. It won't retract at all. It has a bit of slack where I can just pull a little bit of it, and that's it.
Kind of annoying. Can anyone give me some tips on how to fix this problem?
16th Jul 2015, 05:58
Adjust push rod clearance to brake master cylinder; no clearance means the brakes come on when warmed up. Easy fix.
7th Nov 2015, 23:13
Remove the mounting bolts for the brake master cylinder, move it out of the way enough for clearance to get to the push rod, grip it with pliers and turn the adjustment in 2 turns. This will give you clearance and fix the issue of the brakes staying slightly on all the time, which causes the rotors to get hot and warp, causing your shudder.
3rd Jan 2017, 05:56
Hey mate, a bit of an old comment, but changing the oil from 10W 30 (the recommended viscosity) to 10W 40 is actually probably not a great idea, as the 40 weight would put more unnecessary strain on the motor having to force thicker oil around. You're probably better off just using the correct weight of oil, but getting fully synthetic oil that has a single weight.