22nd Mar 2008, 08:19
For the owner w the EGR issue:
You don't have to replace it...but... you do have to take it off and clean it... and the tubes leading to and from it.
If you do you will keep it running to 350-400k miles.
If you don't it will burn the middle valve.
Its easy... do it soon. Its normal. Its important.
22nd Mar 2008, 19:44
Rusted A Arms can be dangerous, and the front end can collapse on one side or the other. Best to get the car up on a hoist and inspect. If the A Arms are rusted through, the car is pretty much toast.
21st Feb 2011, 11:15
I bought a Geo with rusted out A arm areas, but good engine. I wanted to put the engine in my 95... however wouldn't work, so I borrowed a plasma cutter and ground out the bad areas on the rusted A arms and re-constructed the A arm areas. I sold the car and see it periodically driving down the road running like a champ. I had not welded since high school (only training). You can do it yourself or have someone do it. But do it before it rusts too badly to have a place to start. Good luck.
18th Mar 2008, 18:01
Dave from Iowa writes:
Just bought a '95 Metro Lsi today. Some rust on the rocker panels and some fading on the dash. Interior perfect, 110K miles. Newer AM/FM/CD. $1400 cash, private owner.
Other than that, it seems like it's got way more zip than I would expect for a 3 cylinder. I noticed it idles a little rough, and there's some funny rattles on potholes (I'm thinking it's a good idea to avoid potholes). The previous owner is the pastor of a local Baptist Church and has taken good care of it. He claims a normal MPG of around 43. I figured I could take his word for it...
How bad a problem is the rust deal? I've noticed that there are several rusty spots on A-arm mounts and "frame" mounts. Do these need to be addressed while there's no damage besides paint gone and surface rust?