1996 GMC Jimmy SLT from North America - Comments

98 gmc jimmy. 4x4 4dr auto 4.3 console shift.

115k miles

bought at 108k for 5300. since then;

-AC compressor

-alternator

-both front wheel bearing assembly

-fuel pump

-crank position sensor

-cam position sensor

-distributor

=3k? 4k$? lost track=don't want to know.

Need fuel distribution setup, but that's another 600

used 4lo and only RR wheel spins-no 4x4 action... so one more thing...

I have a 1996 GMC Jimmy SLT for my first car. It had 132,000 miles on it when I bought it. The only thing I had to do to it was put a A/C compressor on it, the only things I do is the regular maintenance

I just purchased a 1996 GMC Jimmy 4x4. I had it now for 2 mouths. Since then I have put in $2500.00 into it. Needed ball joints, other front end repairs. The A/C does not work.

But most of all, there seems to be a problem with a sensor that keeps failing and causes the engine to just turnover, but will not start. The shop has replaced 3 in the last 2 weeks. This car has been in the shop for 1/2 time I have had it. I won't let my wife drive it in fear of it stopping on her. I have heard of many complaints about this car, I am now beginning to believe them. I too, have now given up on American auto makers.

I have a 1996 jimmy and I got it for 3000$ I had it for 2 weeks and the ac went on it and 2 days later the rear main bearing went now I need a new motor I will never buy a gmc jimmy ever agen.

I've been in the possession of a '96 JMC Jimmy SLT since 67,000 miles. Bought it used, so I'd expected my fair share of technically difficulty. What I did not know, is how fast the parts wear and tear.

- Upper & Lower Ball Joints, x 3

- Pitman / Idler Arms x 2

- 02 Sensor x 2

- A/C never holds a charge to save a life.

- Fuel Pump x 2

- Water Pump

- Under dash electrical work is shoddy. (Radio, signals)

Resulted in small fire..

I love my truck, it just doesn't love me back.

Bought the truch for $5500.00, have since put in more than it's worth in parts and repairs.

I don't know what you people are complaining about most of your cars have over 100000 miles on them STUFF STARTS GOING WRONG I own a jimmy and my 4x4 went recently, but it was an easy fix and if you do your own work which a cave man could do. brakes are $30 max and cheaper are better for your rotars anyway, they are 2 hours to fix with an alen key and a pair of pliers we learn about the human body like nothing, but geuss what your car is twice as simple as your body you just have to look at it.

I have a 1996 GMC JIMMY with 140k miles. Only problem I had is a damaged water pump the ABS light is on and the rear wiper motor is not working. All of those thing has been fixed and cost no more than $200. Overall, the power it has is incrediable. I also had done performance upgrades to the intake, exhaust along with a nitrous system. So I out run a mojority of the vechicles I race and still have the power to tow. GMC makes a good product.

I have a 96' GMC Jimmy.

Need new rear diff. $1000.

No more A/C; the compressor was shot. Bought the pulley for no A/C $60

Alternator changed.

Driver door unlatches, causing the interior light to come on.

These vehicles are way too nice to be messing up like this.

I was one of the lucky people to purchase a 1996 Jimmy 4x4 “SLT” for my wife.

It came complete with all options including all the wonderful “shared” mechanical failures of the many other 1996 Jimmy & Blazer owners.

One of the best unadvertised features incorporated is the “Russian Roulette Brake System” (more fun than a tornado)

It will sure make your adrenalin glands work to their maximum capabilities, although our laundry bill has risen! Wooo!..,what a rush! I just love to play the included free game “Will it or Won’t it Stop in Time-ver 2.0”.

At 59 yrs. old I’ve had a full life anyway.

As of today with 39,430 actual miles I have been blessed with the privilege of requiring my 3rd brake power booster.

I sure like that, it makes it easy to remember the number 3, like also the 3rd alternator.

Shucks, if I’m lucky, they will both catch up to the 4 batteries!

Too bad, the driver power window regulator motor is only the 2nd, oh well “Sh~~ Happens! ”.

We where extremely privileged to repair the front brake failure @17,000 miles or so (wow, we were lucky. We usually have to wait for at least 30,000 miles or so.) and I only had to pay a percentage (hmm….,?`~@##*-) Hats off to that “great engineering design” in the elite manufacturing process.

I am excited and really looking forward to the seeing the transmission dissected which will be in the future for sure, I can hardly wait. Little did I know after I tried to pull out the trans dipstick @13,000 miles, lo and behold you cute little devils included a hidden bonus of a sexy shade of brown stuff embedded in the tube. I just love all those little extra things you include @ no-charge. Geeze, I didn’t hear from you guys about that service bulletin, (one of over 250) that led to fun and games $@ the tranny shop with a old version of “Flush & Fill”. I felt a little sad I didn’t get to play your new improved game.

Living in the desert with the constant temperature over 100 degrees I can hardly wait for the ac compressor to die again. It seems to be lagging, only had to replace it once so far, but I’m sure it will see what the other components are doing and will join the game. I know by the oil spots on the driveway we do have some unknown players trying out for a place in my wallet. Wondering if maybe they made the hoses with “natural-breathing” rubber?

It’s a shame we have never driven it off road or we could have really enjoyed ourselves, with some of the other neat mechanical failures I read about in the hundreds of pages posted on the internet by other “Happy Owner’s” of the same year and type vehicles. I guess I can be thankful that you have sparked my curiosity to determine the trick you use to make a “power brake booster” FAIL twice in less than 40,000 miles….. not really sure if I will keep the “Jimmy” long enough to figure that one out! Seems I found some replacement vehicles, but I’m not sure my wife is ready to give someone else the chance to have all the fun playing the newest modestly priced “$590.00” OEM Full featured GMC game.

“Kill-her now? Will it or Won’t it Stop in Time.., ver 3.0” or also available @ a local repair facility the Lite version “Maybe it Will, Maybe it Won’t” after-market @ a slightly lower cost.

Again, I want to personally THANK YOU and congratulate your company for not standing up to your product.

Most of all, thanks for providing me with a whole new outlook to “LOOK AGAIN”

P.S. please let me know if you decide to make the “Corvair” again. I sure would like one.

Sincerely,

jimmy-deep-pockets.

I purchased a used 96 SLT Jimmy that in 1997 from a dealer with 30,000 miles, the first problem I had was the ABS brake system (no brakes) at times along with an idler arm and a defective fuel tank sending unit. The next set of problems was the upper and lower ball joints (GM had a recall on this). Then my water pump and head gasket went at about the same time. A year later the radiator had to be replaced. The horn stopped working 9bad connection in harness near firewall, my lights also blinked on and off (weak relay located in glove compartment). Had a major short in harness, wires running to rear of vehicle over gas tank. Rebuilt alternator. My AC leaks in the winter tried to fix so I just charge the unit every summer. The rest are basic maintenance like tires, shocks, belts, and oil change. Wait till your drive shaft goes, could not get the correct universal joint to replace, ending up buying another drive shaft from the junk yard to get my vehicle fixed. I place on keeping this vehicle until it totally dies than I just junk it.

I do most of my own repairs and maintenance. What I cannot do I take to my brother who owns his own auto repair shop. He did the ABS brake system, Head gasket and ball joints. The rest of the work was done by me. I have done more work on this car that any other car I have owned. I need a four wheel drive because I drive off road, but my next choice will be a Nissan or Toyota.

I purchased a new 1996 Jimmy and have had it for over 12 years. The a/c was a bad design, along with the anti-lock brake recall, but other than that it has been the best vehicle I've ever had. At 110K miles the spark plugs were still good. The guy at the shop had to call all of the techs over to look due to his amazement. The only bulb that has ever been replaced is the one over the license plate, just last year when it was over 11 years old. Still going strong and squeals the tires at 134K miles. I just got a good one or got lucky. Tired of SUV ugly and ready for another car. I may just have to keep this GMC, just in case, just because, why not?!

I got my 1996 GMC Jimmy SLT in 2006. It has 303,539 km.

After about 2 months of owning the car stalled a lot. Went to the mechanic for a tune up and the water pump was replaced. Then the check engine light came on and it was the cam sensor.

I have already had 2 batteries die out and 2 fuel pumps. Also the rear wiper never worked so I just left it.

My car also overheated and the reservoir cracked because of the crappy dex cool from GM.

The ABS light came on a month ago and stays on.

Only 3 of my speakers work in my car and they work when they want to.

My switch for the indicator and washer fluid went out, so if something happens I'm in trouble. And power seat never worked and now I could almost not reach the pedal.

This car is reliable, but not always in the winter time when it gets cold in Canada.

The fuel gauge is about 1/4 off so it's hard to tell when I need gas.

My locks were messed up for about 2 weeks. They use to unlock automatically and then it suddenly stopped.

While driving on a ruff surface I took a turn and the car almost rolled over on me; luckily my brakes were good since I just got back from the mechanics.

Had to replace the idler arm after that it idled fine.

To 9th Feb 2009, 14:42 what do you expect with something so old? I don't think you know what you're talking about - an idler arm does not control engine idle.