I own a 1999 GMC Jimmy.
I have had this truck for a few months, and I have already had to change in a new fuel pump, U-joints, ball joints, catalytic converter, and now after all that, I now am only getting 10 miles to the gallon.
I've had this all done right, but it's still not working right. So if you're thinking about buying a GMC Jimmy, don't do it, it's not a very good choice!!!
Wow! Felt like I was the only one who had these problems... love my 99 Jimmy, bought it a year old in 2000 and now have 81K on it... the same problems as everybody else, but haven't had gas gage problems yet...
The last straw though is the heater core problem...8 1/2 hours of book time to replace, however I need it to run the defroster...
I will not buy another GMC product, a shame because I have never bought a foreign car, but next spring or summer I will trade my Jimmy in... I have sold my last two cars by myself when I replaced them, but always felt I was selling a well taken care of used car... not sure I can sell this one myself and look at myself in the mirror the next morning while I shave...
Bought a 1996 Jimmy used with 35000 kilometers on the odometer. Replaced all brake hubs and drums, and ball joints. Mechanic says the front end is undersized for this vehicle. Now the plastic gears in the rear wiper have stripped for the third time. At times I've shut the rear wiper off only to have it bounce off the park shelf and continue wiping until it finally settles and shuts off.
Also the 4WD module died and cost $800 to replace. Now have 85,000 kilometers on it; a good vehicle otherwise.
Our 1997 Jimmy has been a pretty good ride. But six months ago, at 90,000 miles, the rear bearings started humming, fixed for $1400 and the fuel gauge stops at 1/2. Have to replace the alternator now. Bought one on eBay for $60. Had it garaged all its life so body is all good. Nice looking, and fun to drive. Hope it still has some good life in it.
I also have recently bought one of these LEMON Jimmys for its super good body and looks, only to regret the day I did. All new front end (axle, bearings, brakes, ball joints) and that was just the first week; now the key is stuck in the ignition and I'm going to try what is posted here.
I also had the problem of the locks, locking and unlocking themselves, so I post this in hopes of helping others; check the rear hatch window release button that is on the rear door (key hole button). I found my problem there after tediously tracking it down. 20 minutes later I had taken the switch apart myself and cleaned the corrosion and put it back in; all has been well since. The only problem is now it doesn't work anymore, but with a button on the dash and one on the key chain, I don't miss it or the problems it caused. Hope this helps someone.
I also have an 99 GMC Jimmy; only problem is I replaced the fuel pump. And now horrible gas mileage.
Other than that, a great truck.
Can't tell if I got an oil cooler or not.
Looking for an Impala; also a great car.
Just bought a 2000 Jimmy with 152000Km (94000 miles). Ditto on the front end and wheel bearings. Replaced a rear brake caliper that was leaking fluid. This would explain how air got into the ABS modulator and couldn't be bled properly. When this happens, you need a special scan tool to activate a bleed sequence in the modulator (dealer time). The other rear caliper had a seized slider bolt caused by a torn rubber boot. Had to heat that area of the caliper bracket to pull it out.
Another problem is a very rough idle with a misfiring cylinder (code 0301). Apparently this is caused by a clogged poppet valve in the fuel injection system. Cleaning by the dealer should clear it up. If not, the entire injection system needs to be replaced ($$$).
I do a lot of my own repair and maintenance work and I have never seen so much rust on some of the components, except the body, which is great. For example, the differential cover bolts were so rusted that I had to use a smaller socket than normal and one refused to budge so I had to grind that one off. The cover itself was heavily rusted with chunks of rust just falling off. Although the cover is not pierced, I expect it to develop a leak in a year or two.
Follow-up to previous post:
I replaced the fuel injection system, problem with misfiring #1 cylinder continues. Although this might not help, I also have to replace the fuel pump/sender assembly as the gauge does not operate normally (also a common problem).
The differential cover is leaking from a pinhole leak so now I have to replace it (first time in 25 years of automotive experience).
I'm afraid that this "good deal" will turn into a money pit.
My Jimmy 1994 SLT would not start when I came back from the airport. When I jumped it, the dash started smoking. The next morning and the thing is dead again. Last week the power locks stopped working so it might be related to that. I'm going to check the fuses.
I have had two, 2000 GMC Jimmy's. One was t boned and a write off, I survived so I went out and got another one. Bought it at 85K, only thing so far is the gas gage and some alternator belt of some sort!!! Other than that I have had no major problems and I now have 123K on it!!!
I have a 2000 GMC SLT, been through the same issues, front wheel bearings and hubs (expensive), brakes squealed with aftermarket pads and aftermarket rotors. Replace the pads with semi-metallic and then ceramic, still bad. At suggestion of a friend put in factory original pads, kept the after market rotors, worked fine, no squeal.
Went through three belt tensioners, alternator, battery, water pump (normal wear item)
Rear brake, emergency brake and rotor/drum replaced. Turn signal started clicking and would not stop, although lights worked fine. Replaced turn signal lever, got off eBay, it then caused for me to not have rear brake lights. cannot get guy at ebay to replace them. Said they were under warranty for a year, but will not respond. Caution if every dealing with folks on ebay, they do not stand by what they sell.
Now my gas gage is erratic. If full works fine until the tank is close to 1/2 a tank, then cycles from full to empty, back and forth. Drives me nuts!
Oil cooler lines were bad early on when I was hauling a U-haul trailer, not issues since then.
Door pins were bad on drivers side, cost $150. Now riders side is bad!
Hood cable broke, not fun trying to replace that, harder to get the hood open with the cable broken in the middle.
Crazy thing, I also have a Chevy S10, same engine, but no bells and whistles like the SLT has, and is a 1996 and never have had any issues with it.
Would not buy GM product again. Very disappointed in the quality and reliability of this vehicle.
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