24th Jul 2009, 19:10
I also have a 94 S10 Blazer that stalls when I drive slow. I wiggled two wires up top by the radiator hose, then it would turn off, so I figured it had a bad connection, so I replaced the two wires. Now it won't start; go figure. I also replaced the EGR once. BTW, the wires I replaced were coming out of the front of the engine block.
22nd Sep 2009, 21:05
I have owned S-10's since I bought my first one in 1986. I drove them. I know that transmission filter and fluid has to be changed at 30,000 miles, and oil every 3000 miles or soon after.
I beat two of them, a pick up, then a Blazer. The one I own and drive everyday is a 1994 Blazer Tahoe. I will own this until the end, or my end.
Biggest problem, not understanding why Auto Zone and Advance Auto sell junk fuel pumps. I have not had a problem with the lower pressure fuel pumps, but the one I have to have for this blazer has to have 58 to 60 PSI, or more. After two years, several towing bills, I realized that the pumps were crap. I went to Car Quest. They sold me a "Delphi" fuel pump. Delphi made the first pump that lasted 14 years. I have now been 2 years with out a problem, any problem. I have drove this Blazer through mud past the bumper, snow and ice. Never gives up.
After the fuel pump issue was resolved, I had to replace the "Nut Kit", which is the fuel lines that carry fuel into the intake manifold, to the "spider" or CPI $80.00 plus a $12.00 gasket for the intake plenum. Original starter, original water pump, original alternator. Still going strong, but soon I know these too, will wear out.
After all these years, understanding the problem is the best way to go, only way to go for me. Do you home work. Got a problem with any vehicle, do not trust those who do not know. I have saved plenty of money by asking the question. A mechanic once told me the more parts they replace, the more money they make.
It takes 15 minutes to clean the EGR valve, think about it, gasoline is crap, and it builds up carbon in the system. If simply cleaning the EGR stops working, as in it does no good for very long, it is time to clean the ports that feed the EGR system. Hence, no more EGR problems. A couple of gaskets and you are done. American vehicle manufacturers do not make the gasoline or the oil for these vehicles, but they do their best to make a quality vehicle, and every vehicle requires routine maintenance.
My brother has nothing but problems with his Honda transmissions, so he bought a Kia, a fuel leak developed and burned his car to the ground, two weeks after he bought it. Car was replaced, but his asphalt driveway wasn't even covered by homeowners insurance.
In the end, do your homework. Understand the problem, and repair it right. Obey this and you won't get stuck on the side of the road.
I gave a ride to a fellow who cussed his Sonoma up and down. Yet he was out of gas. Should have stopped a mile up the road, but instead he had to buy a $12.00 gas can for $4.00 of gasoline, and he was back driving his Sonoma. Get the point?
14th Nov 2009, 21:53
I think the September 22, 2009 comment was accurate. I just bought a 94 GMC Blazer Vortec and I may change my opinion though. Seems to run nice right now.
20th Apr 2010, 01:21
Been driving my 94 S-10 Blazer Vortec W engine since 1995. My secret to keeping in running good is to keep it tuned, run only branded premium gas, and if you suspect a problem with EGR valve, pour half a can of Seafoam fuel additive through the CV vacuum hose, shut off the engine, and let it sit overnight. Run it pretty hard next day. This works for me.
20th Aug 2010, 20:47
My 1994 Blazer 4.3 Vortec. Went to the shop because it was running rough. Mechanic told me very low oil pressure. What can I do??? It's got 192000 miles. Help.
20th Sep 2010, 09:30
I have a 1994 S-10 4.3 L that has poor acceleration. What will fix this problem?
30th Jul 2011, 12:48
Sounds like fuel pressure regulator is leaking. Or the fuel lines going into the CPI.
10th Feb 2012, 09:02
Actually, it's not as bad as some may think. It takes about 20 minutes to slap a new one on. Removing the left bolt is easy, but for the right, make sure you remove the connector, and then slide in an extension (about 8-10" will do) with a 10mm socket from the front in between various engine parts, and you have a direct way to remove the bolt. Just be careful when you are ready to take the bolt out... may have to reach in from the right behind the alternator to it. At first it seems awkward, but after doing it once or twice, it is not a big deal.
Again, be careful in removing and replacing the bolt, as you will need to guide it through in a tight area to get a straight shot at it. This way, there's no removing of parts, and you are then ready to roll.