22nd Sep 2008, 13:51
FYI for those people who had a 2001 Denali that stalls on them, somebody mentioned about it sounding like it was not getting fuel.. well I have had the same problem. I was driving my 2001 Denali, and along the road going to church it stopped on me. I had fuel, checked the fuel oil pump relay and it was clicking, so it was good. Checked if there was ignition and there was (pull the spark plug wire and get a screw driver, just be careful it is insulated and don't be grounded, PUT KEY ON THE IGNITION).
2 days later (STUCK) on the commercial parking lot I tried to start it again, it was cranking. Engine was trying to start, but it HAD no combustion to support. So what I did was to got hammer and I hit the bottom of the fuel tank about 4 times hard, but careful to not damage the tank, then I started it, and it started... it was the fuel pump problem. Now I can drive it to the car repair or to my house and fix it myself.
Good luck, hope this help your problem troubleshooting.
23rd Sep 2008, 17:09
I have a 2001 XL, and am having the same things going on with mine. You start it up, drive down the street and dies right in its track. It will start right up. Had it checked; fuel pump is OK, some days it runs fine and others it stalls out 10 times within 2 blocks.
Jdr in fla.
4th Oct 2008, 16:59
Trouble trouble trouble... I have a 2001 Suburban 1500. Only have 115000 miles on it.
I replaced the tranny at Aamco for $2200. A week later the ABS and brake light came on. I cut the car off and you can still hear a noticeable humming sound under the driver side. It killed my battery. I was informed that it will cost me at least $1000. to fix. I am saving up for the repair, meanwhile I pulled the fuse.
I am a Chevy man. I am starting to have doubts.
10th Oct 2008, 12:39
I have a 2002 GMC Yukon. The ABS and Brake light came on, and with the key removed from the ignition and the motor turned off, something was still running. It turned out to be the ABS Module. I removed the fuse to this devise so I can drive the truck, although I do not have the ABS braking feature. The GMC dealer tells me it will cost me $1,367.00 to have it repaired. Does anyone know if there has been a recall on this module? I also recently learned that I need to replace both front hub assemblies due to noise in the hub wheel bearings... another $860.00. Does all this sound reasonable to you? Any suggestions?
18th Oct 2008, 02:38
I also have an 01 Yukon XL with 73,000 miles - the other day my ABS light came on - stupid me didn't pull the fuse, and now the battery is dead - apparently you can have the module rebuilt for about $150 - here is the link to the site:
I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet?? Any advice?
29th Nov 2008, 18:10
Wanted to make comments on my 5 month old 2001 GMC Yukon XL 1500.
Bought the vehicle used at a dealership for 7995.00 (before taxes). I was very surprised to see such a clean vehicle for sale. It had 111,000 on it. I looked at a new one in the year 2000 at the dealership but couldn't bring myself to pay $37,000 for a SUV that only got 12 miles to the gallon.
After driving it for a while, I notice a stalling problem it had, so I realized why the person traded it in at the dealership. And if it was sold to me for 7995.00, the dealership probably got it for very little money (Honda dealership).
The problem with the stalling was intermittent, doing it one day and not the other. It was very frustrating to deal with. I took it to several dealerships but they were not able to find the problem. Finally I took it to a non-dealership shop. I told them about the intermittent stalling and they tried duplicate but couldn't, so I asked them if they could take it out for a long drive, which they were reluctant to do so but finally did. Sure enough the vehicle died on them and that's when they discovered the problem was the fuel pump. It does surprise me that some mechanics have to duplicate a problem that I told them what it was all along. The mechanic told me what could have lead to the fuel pump going out could be the following:
1. Fuel pump was heating up as the miles built up, causing the pump to start failing as it got hot. Letting it sit for about 15 minutes would let it cool down and it would restart. Which was the same for me.
2. He stated old age might have played a role in it also. He stated that a lot of these GM components start failing about 100,000 miles. Which could be a sign for things to come.
3. A dirty fuel filter could also lead to failure since it causes the pump to work harder.
4. Keeping a fuel tank close to empty or running it dry can also cause premature wear, since the fuel has a cooling effect on the pump since its bathed in gas.
In conclusion, not sure all of the above is true, but it's food for thought. Also I got a new fuel filter.
Total cost was 901.05. Fuel filter was 22.81, labor to install it was 48.00 (if you could do this yourself it would save $)... fuel pump was 447.44 and labor to put it in was 264.00 and a 80.00 diagnostic fee (which I feel should be absorbed if I get the work done there, but they didn't see it that way).
Also the SUV is a very nice vehicle with a nice ride, good material, lots of bang for the buck at 7995.00.
Only other problems have been a sunroof that has to be perfectly closed or it leaks, and very spongy brakes.
5th Dec 2008, 17:40
I have had a 2002 Yukon XL 2500 with the 8.1 liter for about a year. I have had it sometimes stall or non start after a few stops. So far we removed the aftermarket auto start, put in a new fuel pump and I still have the problem, now I am told it is the crankshaft sensor. This has been a real pain just to get a auto shop to look at the truck, no luck from two dealerships.
13th Dec 2008, 16:01
I have a 2001 GMC Yukon Denali with the 6.0. I was getting a low idle, and a stall when letting off the gas coming to a stop once in a while. You NEED to clean the throttle body as well as the Mass Air Flow sensor. When these two get dirty, which my 112,000 miles led to, the truck doesn't really know whats going on and starts to idle low, and stall. It takes about 5 minutes to clean the throttle body and MAF. After you clean them, the truck WILL run like garbage because the motor is burning off all excess throttle body cleaner that went into the intake. After this gets cleaned out, the truck shouldn't have an low idle or stall issues. It isn't always the fuel pump... and this is something that ANY person can do with a $3.50 can of cleaner... worth a try before you spend $80 on diagnostics at a garage...