2001 GMC Yukon XL from North America - Comments

2001 Yukon XL Starts just fine however the engine will frequently stall when coming to a stop or traveling at a very low speeds either coming to a stop or trying to make a turn. I heard that it could be an accelerator tension cable issue and was told that there is a spring that can be adjusted. Not sure.. but the car is up for inspection and I am sure it will not pass under these circumstances.

Trouble trouble trouble... I have a 2001 Suburban 1500. Only have 115000 miles on it.

I replaced the tranny at Aamco for $2200. A week later the ABS and brake light came on. I cut the car off and you can still hear a noticeable humming sound under the driver side. It killed my battery. I was informed that it will cost me at least $1000. to fix. I am saving up for the repair, meanwhile I pulled the fuse.

I am a Chevy man. I am starting to have doubts.

I have a 2002 GMC Yukon. The ABS and Brake light came on, and with the key removed from the ignition and the motor turned off, something was still running. It turned out to be the ABS Module. I removed the fuse to this devise so I can drive the truck, although I do not have the ABS braking feature. The GMC dealer tells me it will cost me $1,367.00 to have it repaired. Does anyone know if there has been a recall on this module? I also recently learned that I need to replace both front hub assemblies due to noise in the hub wheel bearings... another $860.00. Does all this sound reasonable to you? Any suggestions?

I also have an 01 Yukon XL with 73,000 miles - the other day my ABS light came on - stupid me didn't pull the fuse now the battery is dead - apparently you can have the module rebuilt for about $150 - here is the link to the site

http://modulemaster.com/en/index.php

I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet?? Any advice?

Wanted to make comments on my 5 month old 2001 GMC Yukon XL 1500.

Bought the vehicle used at a dealership for 7995.00 (before taxes). I was very surprised to see such a clean vehicle for sale. It had 111,000 on it. I looked at a new one in the year 2000 at the dealership but couldn't bring myself to pay $37,000 for a SUV that only got 12 miles to the gallon.

After driving it for a while, I notice a stalling problem it had, so I realized why the person traded it in at the dealership. And if it was sold to me for 7995.00, the dealership probably got it for very little money (Honda dealership).

The problem with the stalling was intermittent, doing it one day and not the other. It was very frustrating to deal with. I took it to several dealerships but they were not able to find the problem. Finally I took it to a non-dealership shop. I told them about the intermittent stalling and they tried duplicate but couldn't, so I asked them if they could take it out for a long drive, which they were reluctant to do so but finally did. Sure enough the vehicle died on them and that's when they discovered the problem was the fuel pump. It does surprise me that some mechanics have to duplicate a problem that I told them what it was all along. The mechanic told me what could have lead to the fuel pump going out could be the following:

1. Fuel pump was heating up as the miles built up, causing the pump to start failing as it got hot. Letting it sit for about 15 minutes would let it cool down and it would restart. Which was the same for me.

2. He stated old age might have played a role in it also. He stated that a lot of these GM components start failing about 100,000 miles. Which could be a sign for things to come.

3. A dirty fuel filter could also lead to failure since it causes the pump to work harder.

4. Keeping a fuel tank close to empty or running it dry can also cause premature wear, since the fuel has a cooling effect on the pump since its bathed in gas.

In conclusion, not sure all of the above is true, but it's food for thought. Also I got a new fuel filter.

Total cost was 901.05. Fuel filter was 22.81, labor to install it was 48.00 (if you could do this yourself it would save $)... fuel pump was 447.44 and labor to put it in was 264.00 and a 80.00 diagnostic fee (which I feel should be absorbed if I get the work done there, but they didn't see it that way).

Also the SUV is a very nice vehicle with a nice ride, good material, lots of bang for the buck at 7995.00.

Only other problems have been a sunroof that has to be perfectly closed or it leaks, and very spongy brakes.

I have had a 2002 Yukon XL 2500 with the 8.1 liter for about a year. I have had it sometimes stall or non start after a few stops. So far we removed the aftermarket auto start, put in a new fuel pump and I still have the problem, now I am told it is the crankshaft sensor. This has been a real pain just to get a auto shop to look at the truck, no luck from two dealerships.

I have a 2001 GMC Yukon Denali with the 6.0. I was getting a low idle, and a stall when letting off the gas coming to a stop once in a while. You NEED to clean the throttle body as well as the Mass Air Flow sensor. When these two get dirty, which my 112,000 miles led to, the truck doesn't really know whats going on and starts to idle low, and stall. It takes about 5 minutes to clean the throttle body and MAF. After you clean them, the truck WILL run like garbage because the motor is burning off all excess throttle body cleaner that went into the intake. After this gets cleaned out, the truck shouldn't have an low idle or stall issues. It isn't always the fuel pump... and this is something that ANY person can do with a $3.50 can of cleaner... worth a try before you spend $80 on diagnostics at a garage...

I own a 2001 Yukon XL, 8.1 liter with 86,000 miles. 6 weeks ago, while driving on the freeway, the engine shut down for no reason. I was able to start the engine up immediately.

3 weeks ago the reduce engine power came on and shut the engine down with no signs of engine over heating. Then, a couple of days ago, the engine shut down similar to 6 weeks ago. This issue also happend the following day. Today, again on the freeway the engine shut down for a split-second, then came back on immediately. I live by the ocean and I was wondering if the salt air is working it's way into the fuse box inside the engine compartment, and causing all these issues.

T.O.

July 15 update:

I took the vehicle to a reliable, independent, vehicle technician.

Diagnosis: replace the crankshaft locating sensor.

I also heard that GMC announced a safey recall for certain VIN numbers with similar symptoms (this may be old news to some).

Call GMC and provide the customer service person with your VIN number.

I allowed this technician to install the new sensor, for a reasonable price, because of the unsafe driving condition of my Yukon and 20+ years of trust with this repair shop.

Good luck to all.

I own a 2001 Yukon XL with an 8.1 liter Vortec. Recently, the windows for the passenger seats behind the driver failed to open. Before taking the vehicle to the dealer, I gently rubbed high grit sand paper on the windows' fuses. Now, the windows open with no issues.

I cannot guarantee this will work for you, but give it a try.

VTO.

Tonight I heard a thud and now I am hearing a whirring sound and the gears are shifting slowly. Are we looking at a transmission repair???

2001 GMC Yukon XL Denali AWD.

I am thinking of buying it???

It has 152,000 miles. It's white outside, looks nice besides a few ground effects pcs kind-of loose. Leather looks a little faded, but nice inside, it seems to start right up, quiet motor & runs good.

Seller says it has a new transfer case a few months ago & a tune-up.

The ABS light & brake lights are both on when started & driven???

I also hear a vibrating noise under drivers seat? Sounds like an aquarium running type sound?

I also hear a clicking noise while driving coming from passenger seat area with A/C off??

Other than the 2 lights & 2 weird sounds, it seems to start-up & run really strong.

He was asking $6800 & is now asking $5400.

Any ideas or comments would be great! Thanks.

Losvo86@yahoo.com.

Thanks.

I own a 02 Yukon that recently went over the 200,000 mile mark. It still runs like the day I drove it off the lot. No sounds, no vibrations. The only work I have had done to it was a fuel pump at 157,000, besides one tune up and multiple services. It still has the original brakes and they do not make any noise. The vehicle has been great to me.