19th Mar 2008, 07:02

2004 Yukon rear brake rust resulting in a quote of $400 to repair and an $840 bill on pick up. Rotors rusted out, replaced, pads still good, replaced, e-brake pads replaced. That's it - $840. Called them yesterday and asked for a quote - $400 - $500 max is the provided quote. Looks like GM dealers have a license to pick a number and charge you whatever comes up. Wonder why GM is in trouble? $55K vehicle, $2.7K extended warranty to cover defects in the vehicle - but the rusted out crap disc's are not covered event though they are not being replaced due to wear. Final insult - it states on the work order to save the parts. They threw the parts out! Thank you GM. Folks, there is a reason review and report show GM SUV have a much worse than average reliability. Never again. Oh ya, the service advisor tells me the new disc's are much better than the originals and they are warranted for a whole year! Like that is a real comfort.

8th Apr 2008, 23:40

I had the wet floor passenger side and finally had to sit in it with the door open,. umbrella overhead and the kick panel off with the carpet pulled back. Water was pouring in from the kick panel retention hole. I snaked it out with a hangar and it stopped. Now I have a new leak somewhere else I'm investigating. The wetness maybe a combo of front and rear drains clogged. Good luck!

9th Jun 2008, 13:09

I have a 2001 Yukon 2500, and it stalls out when I first start driving along, even if I let it warm up. It does it whether cold or hot outside. It has 138,000 miles, but it's been doing this for three years. I have taken it to the shop before, and they all have tried different things; nothing so for has worked.

I put regular 87 octane gas in it. It has a 8.1 liter motor. Anyway, it is very nerve racking.

22nd Jun 2008, 15:48

I had the stalling problem and went to one dealership who told me I purchase bad gas. So I went and filled the tank with premium gas at a Mobile Station, nothing changed. Took it back in and paid another 700.00 for a whole lot of nothing. Finally, fed up with this dealer I went to another. I am sorry to tell you I can't remember what it was but I believe it was under 300. to fix. I am going to look through my records and post the info for all of you with this very frustrating problem.

27th Jun 2008, 14:38

2001 Yukon – To the guys with the stalling problem, you might try changing your mass air flow sensor. That fixed mind on Tuesday. Item No: 74-8411 from O’Reilly $80.00

Now I have to deal with the ‘Black Death’ Air conditioning problem. Air on, acceleration, stick in the fan sound, freaking compressor clutch!

10th Jul 2008, 22:08

I also have a 2001 Yukon XL...I'm on my 2nd, yes I said 2nd, transmission. I have a little under 104,000 miles. The first went out at just under 75,000 miles. I purchased a 75,000 mile extended warranty but the new transmission was not warrantied. That transmission went totally out at 103,774 miles. Am now having problems with the ABS light and the brake light coming on at the same time. I love the Yukon but there have just been too many major issues.

28th Jul 2008, 02:57

I have a 2001 Yukon Denali 6.0. Yes I am happy to say (knocks on wood) Never a major problem not a one! It has 165,000 miles and still runs like new! I'll never buy another Ford again!

12th Aug 2008, 19:02

I own a 2001 GMC Yukon XL SLT C2500 with 81,500 miles on it. The transmission won't shift into reverse when the engine is warm, and has been malfunctioning since 38,000 miles when I bought it. The GMC dealer said it was normal. The engine service light comes on and off, as well as the need coolant light. The truck has always had a clicking noise under the hood, and a clanking noise in the front suspension when you turn it to the left. The truck is garaged, and the leather seats starting cracking at 42,000 miles. In my opinion, the truck is a piece of junk.

30th Aug 2008, 00:44

Hello everyone, I have a quick question, I am looking at trading in my 06 Sonata for a 2001 Yukon XL 1500, and after reading all of the posts, am really worried about getting a money pit.

It has 88,000 miles on it and it looks like it is in really good shape. I took it for a test drive and didn't feel anything out of the normal wrong with it. It felt like a strong truck, I was wondering if anyone else could give me some tips to look for if I go back to the dealership, thank you very much.

12th Sep 2008, 10:35

I have a 2003 Yukon XL- It's very nice compared to other cars, but, I paid 44,000 for it too. It's not that nice. When I had the after market dvd player put in that they promised me would be just as good as the market one, a lot of problems started. I was having all sorts of electrical probs. I was under warranty, but they NEVER got the stupid thing fixed, and when the warranty ran out, they informed me they wouldn't try any more. That was just the beginning. Then, my panel cluster malfunctioned, and left me with a $700. bill. I have been informed that if it happened under 80,000 miles Gmc was being forced by lawsuit to pay for it. Well, wouldn't you guess, I took it in at 80,000 miles, but since my dealership had to order the cluster... I had to wait tii I got back from a very long trip to get it repaired. This caused the mileage on the repair form to read over the 80,000 limit.Also, my seat goes backward when I push the forward button, and the memory seats have about as good a memory as I do. What they do is offer all the bells and whistles to hook you, knowing that they are never going to work, and they keep acting like they are trying to fix them til your warranty runs out, then you are out. I do not trust this dealership and will never buy from them again.

14th Sep 2008, 22:20

2003 Chevrolet Suburban with wet floor boards front and rear passenger side - fixed!

I followed the suggestions from an earlier post and found the drain nipple in the rear passenger side panel, underneath and behind rear passenger side wheel well. Pulled the nipple loose and drained nearly a gallon of condensate!

One note to the folks that are assuming it is a rain related leak; during light or heavy rains, relative humidity is extremely high and levels of accumulated condensation can be as much as ten times higher than a hot, dry day. During normal hot weather this partially clogged nipple may drain light condensation to the point that floors and carpet may never show wetness. During the high humidity times (rainy weather) the levels of condensation will rise so high that it will not be able to pass the clogged nipple, which will cause folks to assume the wet floors are caused by the rain!

In reality (definitely) in my case, the clogged nipple could not drain the high levels of condensation and so the next available outlet was unfortunately into the interior of my vehicle. NOT RAIN, JUST HIGH HUMIDITY DURING RAINY WEATHER... What a relief!

If you cannot find your rear drain nipple, just email me and I will send you a picture of the location of this nipple.