New motor mount at 45,000 miles.
Alignment problems from day 1. After several attempts to correct, I gave up.
A/C condensation drainage hose failed and flooded passenger side carpeting. It took us months to rid the smell of mildew.
Another motor mount at 60,000 miles.
Transmission computer module developed a problem, causing transmission to shift from 1st gear into Overdrive. Second and third gears were inoperable.
I have learned to keep head lamp and brake lamp bulbs in stock.
Front wheel bearings failed at about 75,000 miles.
Power door locks are inoperable.
Exhaust B-pipe was in need of replacement at 80,000 miles after several holes had rusted through.
Anti-lock Braking System sensor failed at about 84,000 miles.
Speed Sensor failed at 90,000 miles.
Radiator developed coolant leak at 93,000 miles.
Transmission is currently taking over 30 seconds to shift out of Park and into Drive.
CV boots are in need of replacement.
Air conditioning compressor may fail pretty soon.
This car has not lived up to the Honda reputation. It has been a constant money pit from the very beginning.
Engine is unrefined and underpowered. When cold, the valves and lifters tick and tap very loudly. While driving, the engine emits a knock between 1500 and 2,000 rpm.
Road noise can be heard clearly throughout the cabin. The seats are supportive for long road trips, but are uncomfortable for short distances.
When the road becomes rough, so does the ride. The car is very jittery and feels unrefined. I suspect the struts may need replacing. I can add them to the mile long list.
Handling is not sporty, but rather numb. The car has a good amount of body roll during turns. My previous car was a Firebird, so I may be spoiled in that arena. Steering feels very loose, and not crisp as the Honda myth suggests.
Overall, this car has been a quite the disappointment. I expected a reliable, trouble free car that would run to 100,000 miles without much attention. It goes in to the shop nearly every month, and the repair bills usually run several hundred dollars. According to the Honda myth, these are supposed to be low maintenance vehicles. That is not the case, they are extremely expensive to keep maintained and I am convinced that the maintenance list will never end. I have had to replace the distributor, all hoses, brakes, exhaust pipes, timing belts, water pump, engine seals, cv boots, motor mounts, tie-rod ends, wheel bearings, battery, radiator, sensors, wires and I could go and on. Now my air conditioning compressor is moaning and may fail soon... all before the car has even rolled 100,000 miles. I have never had so many problems with an automobile until I bought a Honda. Reliable my foot!
Unfortunally, I agree with your report. I too have a Honda Accord and have experienced the same kind of frequent repairs. Compared to my previous vehicles, this car seems very cheaply built. It should also be noted that repair parts for a Honda generally cost about double that of an American made vehicle. Couple that with the higher than normal break downs, and you have a vehicle that is very expensive to keep on the road!
I am kind of surprised. I have a 1996 Accord LX 4 door sedan - original owner - and it has 185,000+ miles. I have replaced the starter and planning to replace the radiator this weekend. I am beginning to get the itch for a new car, but this has been so good I may try to see how much more mileage I can get out if it. Sorry about the problems you mentioned.
I am sorry about your experience with your Honda. I have a 96 accord too and it is OK so far. I do noice the engine emitts knock sound at around 2000 RPM as you described, Could it be a defect of the design of this engine?
My 96 Accord also has a knocking sound that has developed over the last year around 2000-2500 RPM. On Alldata. com there is a TSB out for a ticking noise from the valve train. Perhaps this is what they're talking about. Since this is the free version of all data, I can't do more research on it. Perhaps I'll go talk to my other mechanic friend who has the all data CD and i'll look up some more info.
I have a 96 Honda Accord EX which is quite simply the best car I have every owned in 35 years of driving. 120,000K and still running beautifully. In the past week the car has been idling rough and vibrating. Diagnosis - motor mounts ($800.00). I will be purchasing a new car this spring and I have been looking pretty closely at the V-6 Nissan Maxima, but it costs $5000.00 more than the Accord and requires premium gas. I'll be buying another Accord.
I have had a 1996 Accord EX VTEC with very little problems. Just replaced the CV boots at 130,000 and the front engine mount. Other than that if you keep the normal maint. up on these cars you should NOT have any problems period... To me these are normal wear and tear items. Honda's are very good cars and I will stick by them 100%.
Sorry to hear about the problems you have had. Were you the 1st., 2nd. or 3rd. owner of this car? Has the car been maintained correctly?
I have a 1996 Accord EX with 113,000 miles. I am the second owner and purchased it with 26,000 miles. I have had no unusual repairs - just the normal wear and tear items - breaks, timing belt, etc. This has been a great car - but lemons do occur once in a while in all cars. I make sure to always perform recommended maintenance at the proper intervals and I am religious about changing the oil. Just as an aside, I got 255,000 miles out of my last Honda. I am sorry to hear that others had problems.
I finally sold the 96 Accord, but many of you will be surprised to hear what I bought to replace it! I got an excellent deal on a 99 Accord EX with 2.3 4-cylinder with only 32,000 miles. I have had no problems with this car and it drives MUCH better than the 96. Smoother, quieter, more comfortable, larger and feels more substantial. Hopefully this car will live up to it's reputation... so far so good. After my experience with the 96, I was strongly leaning toward the Camry... but it is just too boring. I was finally convinced that my 96 was just a lemon and decided to give Honda a second chance. I'll write another review in a year or so once I have some time to really rack up the miles.
Uh, you're talking about a Kia or Hyundai right? First off on the handling I suggest that you stop hitting curbs. This car comes stock with both front and rear anti-sway bars and should handle like a champ. You can also change both the front and rear alignment from what I've read; as well as the camber. I work at a tire shop and most of the time if you take a close look at the tires they'll tell a story of what's wrong.
As far as the engine it sounds like you may have a problem with the VTEC system. I won't bother to explain this complex system, but if it's underpowered at 2500+ rpm it sounds like the VTEC is not engaging the third loab to take advantage of the variable higher rpm timing resulting in lost power.
I also suggest you learn how to drive a stick. They are more fun, more efficient, cheaper to fix, and regardless of the make or model definitely more reliable and less problematic.
I have fully read and understood the previous posts, and I would like to add, that you may need to switch from driving a Honda, to a beautiful, pristine, olive drab Abrams A-1 Battle Tank. I have driven, raced, abused, and destroyed Hondas for more than 4 years, and I still stand by anything Honda has manufactured, from my current 95 Accord EX, to my next Honda, a lawnmower.
As far as the alignment and camber issues, please refrain from testing the tensile strength of curbs. hitting curbs tends to throw the alignment completely out of whack.
The CV boots? consider that standard maintenance of any front-wheel-drive vehicle. I have raced FWD vehicles, and I will confess that the CV axles are the weak link in most Hondas. I have been left on the side of the track 3 times, due to broken CV axles, but that I give credit to my tungsten-carbide, 50lb, right foot, and my lack of common sense, while exiting a turn.
The exhaust b-pipe is completely your fault, from hitting speedbumps too fast. I have done the same, but my Accord is 3 inches lower than a factory Accord, due to a racing suspension upgrade.
As far a valve ticking and engine knocking, again, blame yourself, not Honda. Change the oil every 2,700 to 3,200 miles, and you would not have had that problem to start with. Engine knocking and tapping will occur in ANY vehicle, if the engine oil is neglected. This also explains why you seem to have lost power, as well. When the oil degrades from age, it will clog the VTEC actuation valving, and you lose the 30 horsepower gain from VTEC actuation. Honda has built an incredible engine, with endless possiblities for improvement. My 95 Accord EX began life with 145 horsepower in 1995, and now it makes 280 horsepower, thanks to a Garrett turbocharger. It used to red line at 6,000rpm. Now, thanks to a Japanese computer upgrade, I shift at 8,500rpm. I have driven the car since I have owned the car, and I've only replaced what was scheduled, like the timing belt and water pump at 80,000miles, oil at every 3,000miles, coolant at every 30,000miles, battery every 2 and a half years, and power steering fluid at 75,000miles. This is all scheduled maintenance that is listed in your owner's manual. If you followed it correctly, and driven with some sort of common sense, the car will act as if it was brand new. I have over 150,000miles, and I have yet to have a major complaint.
I believe there was a service bulletin concerning the wiring harness for this car. The wires were improperly routed, and they chafed ageist each other causing shorts once the rubber surrounding the copper wore away. Most of your problems seem to be driving related other than that. Also I have learned by driving though large puddles that a lot of those sensors are prone to fry when submerged in water have you ever made that same mistake?
AMEN to the last post man, right on the money. General maintenance can save you a ton in the long run, oftentimes on stuff that sounds unrelated (such as your engine ticking). Just today I found to my surprise that I could not put the vehicle in reverse (5spd manual), but it may have been caused by trying to force the car into reverse. Not sure what the deal is, but hopefully a cheap fix.
Just replaced the belts and hoses (OMG ten times easier than my old DOHC Eclipse). Made the mistake of replacing the front oil seal just for the hell of it, royal pain in the ***!
If anyone has any ideas as to why I can't get it in reverse please let me know.
Hallo there,
after I have read your review I realized you must be an '96 accord expert now. Could you please answer my simple question (trying to find the answer without success) : how to disable the passenger airbag?
(I want to put the baby-seat there)
Best regards.
Patryk
patryho@tlen.pl.
I am sorry to hear about the first couple of problems you guys are well had with you 96 Honda accord. I have a 96 Honda accord ex Vtech and I love it. When I purchased it 2 years ago it had a little over 100,000 miles. It's a 5 speed. It now had 185,000 miles. So far I only had to change the CV joints, and neutral safety switch (something like that) It wouldn't crank when I pushed the clutch down and I had to get one of those and I did have a little oil leak when I first got it, but that's all taken care of, besides that I Love my car, no other problems just regular maintenance. I have driven it to Atlanta and this weekend will be driving it to Tennesse. But I love my Honda, I love Acura also, that will be my next car or a 99 Accord v6 coupe.
Question: I had my spark plugs and wires and distributor cap replace like last year, how long should I wait to change all of that again, well how often do I need to change spark plugs and wires?
1996 EX Coupe Automatic - 155,000 miles.
Parts that have failed so far, annoying, but minor.
Both power door locks
Both power window regulators.
ABS Unit - this is a biggie, dealers will rip you off to the tune of $1000 - $1500. Lucky I found one on eBay. IMHO - this should be a recall item.
Otherwise have followed the maintenance schedule and the car has been very reliable. Best tip to make the car last forever - every 30,000 miles have the valves adjusted and the trans fluid and coolant replaced.