I have a 2000 LS with 57,500 miles on it.
I bought it used in late 2000 with 10,000 miles on it for $17,500.
This is my first Sport Utility Vehicle and although it is likely to be my last, I'm neither pleased nor discouraged with my purchase.
-- 210 HP 3.2L V6 is strong with plenty of power/torque.
-- Very capable 4wd in snow, shush, etc.
-- Exterior/Interior Styling is pretty good.
-- Have had good luck with dealership work and honoring warranty (see below).
-- Generally fun to drive with good handling for a truck-based Sport Utility Vehicle.
-- Seats 5 adults very comfortably.
-- Annoying vibration at 60-85MPH - Not resolved by tires, balancing, or alignment (all done at once).
-- Seats aren't the most comfortable, but I'm really picky. I've seen much, much worse.
-- Normal, expected blind spot in rear -- Not as bad as other Sport Utility Vehicles, however.
-- Sport Utility Vehicle gas milage (15-22mpg) -- Please note I live in MA, so it's stop/go at high speeds. Not really that bad.
-- Not sure of resale value, will likely take a "hit" when trading or selling, but shouldn't be too bad.
-- ABS seems poorly calibrated (comes on too soon sometimes).
Maintenance Performed So Far:
-- Intake Manifold Gasket replaced (@35K)- Covered by warranty.
-- 2x O2 sensors replaced (@ 20K and again @40K)- (not covered by warranty, $200 per replacement)
-- Transmission Gasket Seal Bad - (@57K) - Caused horrible 1st-to-2nd shifting (loud clank and violently droped into gear) - Leaked out transmission fluid - Covered by warranty.
-- P.C.V. and ERV Valves bad - (@50K) - Cheap to replace ($20-40).
-- Replaced all 4 tires - (@50K) - $400, including mount/balance, and 4-wheel alignment.
-- Fuel Sensor Sending Unit bad - (@52K) - My dealership covered a full replacement, but I've heard that other dealerships to NOT cover this item (not part of power-train warranty) - This could cost upward of $500 to replace, I just got lucky.
-- Front Hubs' Bearings loose - (@39K and again @55K) - Caused clunking noise when turning on uneven pavement and caused steering to feel loose and sloppy. Not covered by warranty, but inexpensive to fix ($50-80 at dealership). They repacked and tightened the bearings and bearing bolt. This resolved issue.
-- Break Maintenance - (@57K) - First break maintenance since purchase - Front Rotors turned, rear rotors replaced, and all pads replaced. Obviously not covered by warranty. $650 at dealership. Not too bad and not much more cost than actually doing it myself!
Overall, so far, so good. No real major expenses above and beyond what anyone should expect for mainenance and costs associated with owning an Sport Utility Vehicle of any kind.
Do not buy anything made by Isuzu. I purchased a 2002 Rodeo 4x4 and really liked it until it reached 30,000 miles. The front Driver's side wheel bearing failed. The main cooling clutch fan bearing became loose (was told by a tech if it completely failed, I would have had to replace the radiator due to the fan flying off the output shaft of the motor). It began to drink a qt. of oil per 1,000 miles (Isuzu claims this is "normal" and will do NOTHING to fix this.) The engine spark-knocked when you try to accelerate hard. The electronics were "possessed" and had different random problems which Isuzu techs could never resolve. And the main clutch on the transmission was slipping (Which, you guessed it, Isuzu said that was "normal")
All this happened within this year. I finally stopped trying to fight Isuzu to anything about their JUNK and traded to an AMERICAN vehicle.
Be prepared for a real shock when you try to trade or sell. The value of these Rodeos are dropping fast. Mainly due to the stopping of the Rodeo and Axiom production this year (2004) and the 50% reduction of Isuzu service centers, dealers, and personnel.
All Isuzu owners, jump ship now! Get rid of your JUNK because soon you will all be left high and dry.
I also have a 2000 Honda Passport LS. I brought it new and I have been having a problem with my check transmission light flashing. When it does this, the car jerks and its sounds like it will cut out. I feel like I'm driving a stick shift, but the car is an automatic. This started happening while the car was still under warranty. It seems to happen when I need an oil change. But why not say, "Check Oil" instead of "Check Transmission?" Every time I contact Honda dealerships, they inform me that they cannot reproduce the problem. A diagnostic does not show what the problem is if the light is not on. And it's just my luck - the light will stop flashing when I go to the dealer and turn off the car. When they restart it, it acts normal. I am very concerned because I live in D.C. where the traffic is horrendous. I am scared that it will shut off on me in the middle of the highway.
Is anyone having this same problem?
I have a 2001 Rodeo. No problems until 29600 miles. Check transmission light came on, indicator on dash showed N even though gear shift in D. Car still drove, although shifted very rough. Stopped at garage, turned off motor. Mechanic checked oil, then turned on motor... warning light did not come on, everything fine. Went to transmission shop, as Isuzu dealer wanted $71 just to check for problem that probably was not covered by warranty. Transmission shop checked for free. Computer said no problem. Owner said to keep driving until light comes on. If light comes on just turn off engine, wait 30 seconds, turn on engine and computer will reset. So far so good.
I own a 1997 Isuzu Rodeo and it has caused me so many problems and cost me so much money. I purchased this vehicle used and so far I have replaced 2 alternators,2 air flow sensors @ 375 a piece, belts always screech when I start the car, My left driver side window will not roll down anymore, will cost around 500 to fix, A constant tapping and knocking noise from the engine, my door locks freeze in the winter as well as the doors, a gas hog and guzzles oil. I have only had this car for 4 yrs. I have also had to replace 3 batteries and my check engine light is constantly on, not to mention my 2 dash lights went out and dealer wanted to charged me 200 to fix. It is my first suv and probably my last from isuzu.
I am just curious. I have had a few problems with my 2001 Rodeo and would like to discuss them with other individuals.
Not the same as what I have seen here.
Before we married, my wife purchased a 2000 Rodeo new as a dealer demo model with only a few thousand miles and supposedly with a full warranty. The vehicle worked fine with very little shop time up to about 70K miles with one exception. The oil would not show on the dipstick at all when it was, in reality, only one quart low. The dealer had no idea what the problem was. Now, we are experiencing transmission problems and have had it in the dealership shop several times with the same problem of skipping, shaking or acting like its in neutral when put in gear. This vehicle has a "sealed" transmission which means only the dealership can add transmission fluid. There is no transmission dip stick or supply tube. It is not leaking fluid anywhere we can see. We are tired of paying the dealership $200 to add fluid each time it starts messing up. Anyone have a remedy to add fluid that the average guy can do?