2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport from North America - Comments

For the death wobble problem, check your shocks - if you have originals still on it or cheaper ones, that may play a large part.

I bought a 2000 and experienced terrible shakes at high speeds - changed dampener, bushings, etc but none worked until I installed Bilstein heavy duty shocks front and back. Problem solved. They are about $60 a shock but Monroe sensatracs should work too for about 40 each.

The old ones I pulled off were shot and allowed the bounce.

Have a 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport and totally agree with comment on shocks. At this stage with a 2000 Cherokee with stock shocks, if you fill the tank up, you will see your rear end bog down, which affects the drive train. I think is what causes lots of problems.

I solved my evap problem (service engine light on with small leak and large leak code). Jeep's gas tanks are plastic and there is a plastic large nut that tightens the fuel pump to the top of tank. The solution is tightening the plastic ring (nut) and you will no longer smell gas and your check engine light will go off. Of course while your tank is down, follow the lines and make sure none of the rubber connectors are dry rotted.

Just a few pointers for the Cherokee pulling slightly to the left. Chrysler apparently designed the wheelbase to be 10mm shorter on the left side of Cherokees to allow vehicle to go straight on American roads or whilst driving on the right hand side of road so to speak. Mine in the UK does tend to do this. I intend to fix this with shims on the axle front control arm i.e lengthen it slightly, thus tending to push the axle very slightly forward on the left side of vehicle to neutralise what Chrysler have done i.e. have the same wheelbase on both sides of Jeep.

As to the wheel wobble problem; I have it very slightly on my 1998 2.5 TD Sport.

Continuation from the UK owner as to the wheel wobble problem. I agree with a previous comment that Chrysler probably did not put enough caster on these vehicles. It makes sense so probably could be rectified by actually shortening the axle front control arms slightly, but by how much I don't know. Perhaps theres a company in the US that makes adjustable axle lower control arms to fix the pull to left problem and the wheel wobble problem at the same time?

My Jeep does 28mpg and I drive it mostly at 65-70mph, and that's an accurate check so I'm well happy with it so far, even though it's the v. m diesel. No trouble so far at 63000 miles,

My 1998 Cherokee Sport with 145K miles suffers from the same ignition problems. Thanks for the advice, it started, I now keep WD-40 inside the jeep.

I also had the A/C problem, the drivers window motor problem, the rear hatch problem, and now I need to replace the solenoid/starter as well.

When there's nothing wrong with the Jeep, it runs great, every 4 months it's something else, friggin' money pit. Never again will I buy a Jeep.

Thanks again guys... Anyone want to buy a used Jeep?

I have a 2000 Cherokee Sport. Check Engine light was on, I needed to get my emissions done. The "computer" said I needed a part, can't even remember which one.. regardless... they replaced it, light went off, 2 days later I passed emissions, then the light came back on?!!? So, I know I got screwed there... More problems however...

My brake fluid was really low and I noticed it due to the brake pedal now "feeling" right. I added the fluid but the brake light is on. I can't seem to find any information on why the brake light would be on. I am not sure if this affected the emergency brake somehow...?

Not sure.. any thoughts or ideas are greatly appreciated.

THANKS!

It is nearly 9.00pm at night, my 2001 Jeep Cherokee Ltd is about 5kms away with the ignition "locked" for the past 4 hours!! This is the second time it has happened in 6 months. We are timing the trips to the car to "wiggle" the key in between swearing and almost throwing a rock through the window. About to head back after an hour "rest" to try the tapping thing!! I love my Jeep, but I hate the ignition!!

I own 2 identical 2000 Cherokee Sports in red and black- One has 215,000, one has 115,000. My two teenage daughters drive them. I have fixed many of the problems described in the hundreds of posts myself- a well below average mechanic with limited time and skills. Parts are plentiful and cheap. They don't flip like Liberty's and do well above average in a collision. They are very easy to drive- OK on gas and the engines and transmissions last forever. You can buy a good one for 3K and run it forever. I know of many with 300K on the original engine and transmission. A racing mechanic told me he loves the drivetrain durability on them. All cars have issues even rice burners- Google Honda Accord transmission issues.