2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo from North America - Comments

Here's a fix $12.00 Harada DLA-01 Actuators, you can install your self. Found this on the web. Door Lock Actuator Fix.

I just fixed a balky electric door lock on my Jeep, and it was easy and cheap! Since it was on the passenger door usually used by my wife, having it unlock when its supposed to should significantly reduce the scowl factor on future rainy Jeep rides.

Since electric door locks are a popular option on car alarm installations, the parts are plentiful and inexpensive. Just go to any shop that installs car alarms and buy a Harada 2-wire power door lock actuator model DLA-01. The cost out here in pricey California was $21. Following are the basic installation steps I followed.

Remove the interior handles, arm rest, trim retaining screws, and pop off the door trim panel. Locate the two rivets holding the existing lock actuator in place and grind off the heads. When they are gone, remove the electric lock actuator. While I had always thought this was a solenoid actuator, it's actually a small electric motor that drives a pinion gear and rack to move the lock actuator bar up and down. There is no ground connection required, so poor door lock performance is not yet another poor grounding problem. The actuator is just a DC motor with 2 wires connected to it. The Harada part is exactly the same except the loop on the top is rotated 90 degrees from the Jeep (Ford?) original part, but this doesn't make any difference.

Cut off the connector on the end of the stock actuator wiring harness and crimp on a couple of blue female bullet connector sockets for 18 gauge wire. Plug the wires from the new actuator motor into them. On my car, the green Harada wire connected to the blue Jeep wire, and the blue Harada wire connected to the remaining brown Jeep wire. Test these connections with the lock switch to see if it moves up when you press up. If not, just reverse the two wires.

Look at where the old actuator mechanism was located and position the new one so it's in about the same place. Mark the locations of the three mounting holes and then drill pilot holes in the door sheet metal. These holes may be very close to where the original rivets were located, but are different enough that new holes will have to be drilled. Place the new actuator inside the door and fasten it in place with the provided screws. Then, take the new universal connecting bar and slip the elbow on the lower end through the loop on the top of the new actuator. Run the connecting bar upwards and slip on the clamp. Slide the clamp over the existing lock actuator bar. Like everything else, the Jeep bar is a little thicker than what the unmodified clamp would accept, so I had to drill it out a little to accept the thicker Jeep part. Leave the 2 set screws loose.

Use one of your lock switches to move the new actuator to the open position and pull the door lock button upwards to the open position. Tighten the 2 set screws in the "bar to bar" clamp and you're done!

This whole task took a leisurely 2 hours including lubricating the window flex rack (since I was in there already). I'll replace the other lock actuators as they become balky, and expect it to take about 1 hour per door now that I'm experienced.

My 2000 GR Cherokee had both front doors making the grinding noise on the power locks, as well as not functioning. Several hours of fruitless on-line searching sent me to the dealer for the lock/motor assembly at $70 per door. Assembly comes with the door latch arms. Removal and install was not nearly as tough as I thought it would be. Took 45 minutes per door. Dealer wanted $200 per door including the part to install. Working great now- how long, who knows. The assembly does not have a separate actuator- so can't comment on the effort the previous owner put into retrofitting an actuator. If you have the $70, it's worth the time if you have some mechanical inclinations.

All right so I am not having the problem with the tail light, but has anyone had any problems with the oil sending unit. Suddenely, after having it serviced my 2000 JGC Laredo reads that it has no oil pressure, then the gauge will come back on-line.

Regarding the Jeep Grand Cherokee door lock actuator replacement--I would like to do either. Presently, my problem is that the lock has failed in the 'locked' position, where no amount of jiggling, tugging or magic has allowed me to open the door. Can the interior trim be removed with the door closed (without wrecking the trim)? Would appreciate any ideas or suggestions??? Car is a 2000 model.

Hello Fellow Grand Cherokee Owners.

I just replaced the front tweeters in my 2000 GCL. Easy and not too expansive. 60 bucks for 2 2" tweeters. Tools shipping.

My next venture is to replace the actuator on the passenger door lock. Does anyone know where to buy this part at a reasonable price?? Besides the dealer. This is my third replacement of this actuator. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have check some auto part stores and they do not carry the part nor did they carry the speakers. I bought the speakers from 12 positive.com. Much thanks in advance for any help.

Jeepy.

Thank goodness I stumbled across this site. Months of frustration and anger over the cost of fixing my taillight problems has been solved! Thanks for the tips! I'll know to check here the next time my Jeep decides to play cat and mouse with it's problems!

Add me to the JEEP door lock actuator fiasco. Front right, rear right, and back hatch door are all out now. Sounds like a chorus of ducks. I am very frustrated with this problem. Found a website: jeep-power-lock.com that may help. Thanks for all the tips and information. Good luck to you all. L.C.

Well I am also another 2000 jgc owner that has been having the same problems with door lock making a horrible grinding sound. I have already disassembled the door lock, but can´t get to the little motor inside. Has anyone figured out a way to fix this problem on their own and avoided spending hundreds at the dealer? Please e-mail me at juliogomes@iol.pt

Thanks.

Here is a site that I have found very helpful in removal and installation of many parts including door panels. It also lists many part numbers as well. www.wjjeeps.com.

I've had the same problems with my 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee regarding the door locks and tail light problems. The tail door actuator went bad and would not lock at all. Hows that for securing your stuff inside! I found, however, that it was not too difficult to replace with some effort. The hardest part is removing the tail door panel. The actuator itself ($75) was removed with one screw.

To remove the panel: Remove the recessed screws on the panel and the screws near the window lock assembly. Start pulling down the panel carefully from one corner. You'll be able to see inside where the plastic "pop" rivets are. These should pull off with some effort. The ones at the top near the hinge are a little more difficult, but not too bad. Once the panel is removed, pull the glued plastic sheet down from the driver's side, exposing the actuator. Again, one screw and the wiring harness is all that is needed. Replace the plastic sheet and reverse the panel process. The white "pop" rivets near the hinge should be pulled out and placed in the panel first, before popping the panel back on.

Good Luck.

I just replaced a fourth door lock mechanism on my 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee. This time I took some pictures of the process in hope of helping others who are wanting to try it. The whole job should take about one-half an hour.

http://junkken.blogspot.com/

Regards.

I have had to replace both my lift-gate and passenger side rear door latches due to the grinding noise. What I believe to have been my problem was that the cheap plastic gears that they used inside of the latches had worn out. This caused the gear to slip and make the awful noise. I got replacement parts from the website www.newjeepparts.com. As I saw in a previous post, you should remember to get the panel fasteners because once you pull off the door panel your fasteners are shot. Beware of the cheap ones at the auto parts store because the ones I originally tried to use had the ribbed pieces crack off as I pushed them in. The biggest trick to replacing these actuators is getting the door panels off. It is a bit tricky slipping the electronic controls out of the door panel so that the panel can be removed from the door.

Additionally, have had problems with both of my taillights. My brake light problems seem to have stemmed from fatigued contacts. The first one to go was my left, which I was able to fix by prying up on the contacts. Then about four months later the right one went. Except that this one must have been arcing and melted some of the plastic and blackend the lamp holder. So, as of now I am driving around with one taillight out until I figure out a way to fix it or replace it. Until the weather warms us I'll just try not to brake when there is a cop car behind me.

Has anyone tried the performance rotors that have the ventilation holes? I'm looking for a rotor that might last me at least as long as a pair of pads.

I have a 2k JGC Laredo and have just experienced the issues with the tail light on the left being burned out. Funny thing is- I just got the right one replaced 3 days ago. In any case, thought it was a bulb- bought the bulbs, but the socket housing in the top position was burned and of course as soon as I touched it one of the contacts fell off. I did research on the web, and finally called my Jeep dealer and he told me the part number for the socket only. It is 4676589- and it costs under 9 bucks! Now I called the closest dealer to me and they tried to say you had to buy the whole assembly- when I gave him the part number he saw it IS possible. Also, the part number for the bulb (from any auto store) is 3157. Anyway- just FYI- and you can only get that part from a dealer- but it is cheap!

Thank you jrdahle@yahoo.com. for your post on Jan 1 concerning the fix for the brake light problem. I have a 2001 jeep Laredo.

I followed your procedure and in 10 minutes it was fixed. Something two garages could not do!

Here is a recap of common Jeep Grand Cherokee problems listed by this group. As a owner of a 2000 GCL I have had them too.

GCL 1. Electric Door Lock Noise. Most often the Tailgate/Liftgate. Noise referred to as a duck, aflac or burrraappp. Happens in or out of warranty (implies <36,000mi), for me was at 51,000mi and its still not fixed. Happens to thousands of owners, maybe hundreds of thousands? Conspiracy theorists note that this problem is NOT in the Technical Service Bulletins (TSB) at wjjeeps. com www.wjjeeps.com/tsb_list.htm

1a- fix by Dealer for free- LOL, just kidding.

1b- fix by Dealer around $200.

1c- buy part at dealer for $77, fix yourself. see junkken.blogspot.com

1d- buy one size fits all actuator for $15, drill new holes, re-wire, to fix yourself.

GCL 2. Various taillight issues. Some or all: Left/right/brake/indicator lights burn out or intermittent. Usually a bad socket/circuit board rather than the bulb. My case happened around 40k miles, fixed it myself. NOT listed in TSBs.

2a- fix by Dealer, cost varies.

2b- buy part at dealer, fix yourself.

2c- buy part online, fix yourself.

2d- fix yourself by bending contacts, foil, etc.

GCL 3. Dashboard Speakers fail. The Infinity sound system tweeters blow. Yes this happens so often there is a webpage dedicated to it (www.12positive.com). Guess what? NOT listed in TSBs.

3a- fix by Dealer, around $64 per speaker plus $xx labor.

3b- buy part at dealer, fix yourself, around $64.

3c- buy part (actually it's a whole kit with tools) online, fix yourself around $50.

Perhaps a 4th problem is warping rotors. I had mine replaced as part of what I consider normal brake service at 50k miles.

Hope this helps someone...

Mr. Clark.