3rd Jan 2013, 10:31

Same with my Jeep, and it's a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0L.

11th Feb 2013, 20:18

2001 Grand Jeep Cherokee with 220,000 miles on it.

Hi - can anyone tell me how much it will cost to fix a cracked radiator? I've been told $1200, but that the radiator itself only costs $150-$160.


17th Mar 2013, 11:07

I had a overheating problem with my 2000 JGC. Came to find out that a chip had gone bad in the computer, at which time my mechanic by-passed the computer and fixed the fan. Problem solved. The computer could have been replaced, but it would have cost a lot more money.

29th Apr 2013, 20:17

Many of the 2002 Cherokee 4.0 engines, where the water is coming through, is by a head bolt in the front. If the engine was put together by an everyday guy like some of us, we don't know that a sealant or lock tight has to be added to that bolt. The bolt isn't very visible with the engine upright, but is noticeable when the engine is out of the vehicle upside down. I also have read about this in the Haynes Repair Jeep manual as well; the 1993 thru 2004 models. Hope this helps everyone.

28th May 2013, 16:52

Even though it's been a few years, I'm glad I came across this discussion! I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee that was making a knocking sound for months. Professional opinion was that it was "probably low on oil" - which was not the case! I was driving the other day & heard a noise like a boulder was stuck in the exhaust/engine & it finally died. When the car was moved, we discovered a piston (or piece of the piston?) had dropped out of the bottom! I haven't even checked on the cost to fix, & doubt it's even worth it?

10th Jul 2013, 22:18

Sad that Daimler-Benz had to redesign the 4.0... Made an ultra-reliable inline 6 into a piece of crap, that WON'T interchange with older models. So the junkyard price is double to triple the 1998-previous models at $800-$1600 for an AMC six cylinder!!! WHY hasn't there been a Class Action suit against Chrysler, as there are VERY FEW of these engines with more than 150k.

The really SAD part is I really liked the rest of the vehicle, and had very few of the issues others voiced: brakes, steering, grinding in axle, transmission until the "valve lifter" noise turned into a broken piston skirt.

11th Jul 2013, 11:47

I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo also that I bought new, and I have problems with it overheating. I took it to a Jeep dealer who replaced the heater core. I later found out this should not have been done, because there was no coolant leaking inside the car. It still overheated.

I took it to another mechanic to flush the radiator, then replace the thermostat, the radiator cap, and finally the water pump. It still overheats. I did not know there was a recall for this problem. The dealer charged $800, and my Jeep is still overheating.

22nd Aug 2013, 15:54

I have a 1999 Jeep Cherokee with a 4.0L that has had coolant leaking / overheating issues for a few years. I have replaced 2 leaking radiators thinking that was the problem, but after noticing coolant dripping from beneath the intake and exhaust manifolds, I thought I had a leaking head gasket. I removed the intake and exhaust manifolds, preparing to replace the head gasket, and lo and behold, found two of the freeze plugs had rusted through and they were the source of my leaks. I replaced all five on that side. Two of them seemed like they would have been fine not to replace, but a third one was about to go. I feel better having replaced them all. I'm confident my coolant issues are now over, as those plugs were definitely shot and leaking. I hope this helps someone else.

30th Aug 2013, 11:41

Same problem, piston skirt broken, in the 4.0L. How much should I expect to pay for repairs?


28th Mar 2015, 22:52

The shift problem is more than likely the throttle kick down cable. The cable goes from the throttle body to the transmission. The problem is it wears out and the valve on the transmission gets stuck, thinking it's at wide open throttle and holds the gears longer and drops to the next gear hard. The brake lights are going to be the circuit boards on the back of the light itself; use a heat gun to heat around the edges and reactivate the glue to make it easy to pull off. Hope this helps.