15th Jul 2008, 13:52
I also have a 2000 jeep 4.0 liter with 80000 miles, replaced the water pump at 70000, I have been adding water every 2 weeks for 1.5 years and no sign of where it is going... now I have no oil pressure... I have taking very good care of this Jeep... and its all been a waste of money... this is my 1st Jeep and will be my last...
17th Jul 2008, 21:18
We also have a 2000 Jeep GCL with 148,000 kms on it, which we purchased used in 2002.
I am overwhelmed reading the comments on this website. Knock on wood, we haven't had any problems (up until now) other than an outer tie rod end.
I replaced my front rotors and pads with aftermarket, but had to use mopar for the rear. All brakes were done approx. 60,000 kms ago and the rears are definitely warped again. They are solid disks, and there are no dissipation vents which explains the warpage.
I am now experiencing the overheating issues that everyone has talked about on this website. I am a mechanic myself, I replaced the coolant temp switch (which wasn't the problem), I also put in a cooler thermostat (180 degree, which didn't fix it either), along with a coolant change.
I removed every ground I could locate, cleaned it up and clear coated it. I was going to replace the FCRS (fan control relay switch) but I tested the harness, and it wasn't getting the 5 volt signal it needs to turn it on anyway. The electric cooling fan is fine, it works like a champ when you put 12 volts to it.
The Jeep doesn't overheat while driving, only at a standstill with the A/C on. It still gets to 210, even with the cooler thermostat in it. Something isn't right. I can't believe that with all of these legitimate complaints, something hasn't been done about this.
Oh yeah, I have an OBD II code reader that I've tried to retrieve codes with, and nothing shows up. My head isn't cracked (thank goodness), I'm stumped.
Last but not least, I have also replaced the passenger side power door lock actuator at $140 Canadian, the driver side just went a month ago. Rather than replace it, I just disconnected it.
We really like the Jeep, this is disappointing.
18th Jul 2008, 11:36
Finally, some light at the end of the tunnel. I had the same issue with overheating as all of the people on this website. After having a bunch of things replaced that didn't need to be.
My last resort effort was to change the RFCR (Radiator Fan Control Relay). Just so everyone knows: it is possible to get a brand new one that is bad. I replaced it with another one, and the situation is finally resolved.
The easiest way to remove it is to remove the passenger side headlight assembly (which doesn't come out easy),after that is removed, cut a 2" hole in the plastic right above the relay and remove the two 5/16" screws that are holding it in place. There is a little red clip on the plug that keeps it from coming out, so that will have to be opened before removal. After that, I used some 2 part epoxy to put the piece that I cut out back in place. I let it idle in the driveway for approx. 20 minutes and the temp. stayed at 180, even in 105 degree weather. Hopefully this helps some of you, good luck!
5th Aug 2008, 08:59
I have a 2000 JGC V8 with all the same problems. Door locks not working, windows not working. 2 weeks ago the low coolant light came on and the temp gage was high. I checked the coolant tank and it was empty. Filled it up, and 2 weeks later it was empty again. Took it in and they said the head was cracked, so got that fixed. Just picked it up last night and temp seems to be high still. We'll see how long it takes for the coolant light to come back on. I'm sick of all this headache. I love my jeep but I'm considering selling it for a Toyota 4runner.
10th Aug 2008, 10:30
I bought a 2004 Jeep Rubicon in September of 2007 which had less than 16K miles on it. One of the reasons for the purchase was the many good reviews of the 4.0 engine; other reasons were related to the extra heavy axles, transfer case, etc. Two weeks ago I was on a road trip on a very hot and humid day with the A/C cranked up when the engine began stumbling at every traffic light stop. It was as if the engine were ready to die and it took careful pedal pressure to get it going. Once moving it seemed fine, but at every stop it went back to stumbling. Then the 'check engine' light came on. Out of desperation I turned the A/C off (I was over 300 miles from home and afraid I might end up stranded) and almost immediately the problem went away. I pointed the front bumper in the direction of the house, opened the windows and headed home. No further problems and the check engine light turned itself off the next day. A check with an OBD-II reader showed an error code indicating cylinder #3 had been missing. No other codes were set. I'm not sure if this is the early onset of what everyone else is experiencing, but for a vehicle with just over 24,000 miles on it (it rolled past 24K on the trip) it is simply unacceptable.
14th Aug 2008, 16:34
Hi, I have also had the same problems as most with a JGC 2000.
Most people have also told me to 'sell it', which I will be trying to do soon.
In the meantime, is there anyway you can disable the 'chime noise' inside the cab, i. e when the low oil pressure sounds etc.
I'm sure there won't be an easy way but thought I'd ask.
23rd Aug 2008, 14:19
I have a Jeep Cherokee Classic, 2001, 67000 miles (town and hwy only, never off road). When warmed up, no oil pressure below 1200 - 1400 rpm, and only 10 - 13 psi above that rpm.
Sucks up about 1/2 gallons of coolant during a tank or two of gas, and Oil level gets higher.
Took it apart and yes, head (0331) is cracked in the usual place.
Cylinders look good. Hoping the bottom end is OK.
Sorry AMC/Chrysler, this is a manufacturing flaw. To deny it is B.S. I have reported it the the NHTSA and am saving the head for future examination.
Currently looking for a quality replacement head at a reasonable price.
29th Aug 2008, 10:15
...I bought a '03 Jeep Cherokee with the inline 6 engine.
Recently the car started overheating at stop lights with the air cond. running... $215.00 later and a new cooling fan relay module seem to have solved the problem.
$45.00 for labor to check the problem, $85.00 for the part and $85.00 for the labor to replace it? Seems a bit high to me!
1st Sep 2008, 18:29
Insanity! This is a great example of a corporate rip off and consumer "screw".
My mom has a 2000 JGC and all the same problems talked about here we have been plagued with...
Brakes...2 complete overhauls to get it right..
Brake Lights... I ended up fixing myself... (jerry rig) but fixed!
NOW the coolant problem!! GREAT! WTF???