17th Jan 2011, 20:24

I have a Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9 limited and I absolutely love it. I will admit I try to baby it because I am afraid of denting or damaging it. If there were more made I might push it a little more, but I plan on keeping it for a very long time and would like to keep it in as good shape as possible.

Mine is stone white and looks great when it is all waxed up! My only complaint is that I don't think the all-wheel drive is working. The reason I think so is because it is very easy to kick it out sideways just like a two wheel drive.

Any suggestions?

16th Feb 2011, 11:56

I got a 98 Jeep GC for my 18th birthday. I have the worst need for speed, and this truck I swear is the best thing for it. LOL I race all my friends (they must not know that a V8 5.9 will smoke the crap out of whatever they've got LMAO), but it does drift if you're good enough. Just saying from experience, but I wouldn't recommend it. But yeah, that's about it, it's a great car.

I've only had one problem with it, and that was the timing chain cover behind the water pump. But it still ran like a tank, but that's it, a great truck, love it!!

11th Mar 2011, 08:32

Hey! The person with the all wheel drive question!

If your Jeep has the same transfer case as mine with 4 all-time, N and 4-LO, then in 4 all-time, nearly 100% of the torque is directed to the rear wheels when driving on pavement! When a difference in traction is detected at slower speeds, the Jeep will automatically divert power to the front axle and the rear axle, and to the specific wheels with the most traction. All with no driver input.

In 4 LO, the front and rear axle are locked together, to deliver the best permanent 4 wheel drive mode that made Jeeps such famous vehicles!

If you're driving fast enough (above 30kmh) in 4 all-time, you're in rear wheel drive for the most part. This is for saving gas, saving your tires from excessive wear, and saving the drivetrain, on pavement use! With other words: when you really need 4WD, you'll get it!


7th Jul 2011, 18:21

The torque allocation via the transfer case allows more power to the rear than to the front. So... your concern for the "kick out" should be strong. Key here is, does the transfer case shift into low, and is power being communicated to each wheel? My question to you is... have you ever serviced your differentials and transfer case?

20th Aug 2011, 10:56

New to the discussion. Hello to All from Southern California.

I too have a 5.9. My question to others is regarding the front drivetrain. In tight turns at slow speed (parking lot), I feel "binding" and hear an occasional clicking from both wheels. Left turn, left side noise... right turn, right side noise. Normal or abnormal? It is not debilitating or overwhelming when it occurs, but it is concerning me. I will have it up on a lift today doing a tranny mount... Hey, it's California, we're into that... But anyway, all opinions welcome. What to look for, or better yet, no cause for concern. Either way, thanks!

1st Dec 2011, 07:11

Hi! If you didn't figure it out already, my clunking in the front was caused by bad sway bar links! The bushing was worn, and there was play in the little joint in the link. I just removed the links, and enjoy click free driving and 70% improved front articulation! =)

6th May 2012, 20:30


I am a tech that has a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee, and am in a mid life crisis...

I have a desire to throw a 5.9 liter twin turbo in place of my 4.0 liter. I am dropping the Jeep, and putting it on computer controlled air bags with stabilizer traction response.

Now I am weak in the transmission department. Will my current transmission mount up to it, and/or what do I need to do to beef it up, to hold up to the new HP?

AKOCH7195@aol.com or 502-408-4316 ADAM.

9th Sep 2013, 17:35

Check the sway arm bushings.

25th Feb 2014, 13:32

Had the same problem with my 5.9. I removed the door switch, sprayed it with contact cleaner, problem solved. Takes about 5 minutes. Also you may find your lower display may act funny, like the engine coolant sensor is bad again. Sprayed contact cleaner on the electrical connections again; problem solved.

Ken the refer tech

4th Jul 2017, 18:28

On the deal with the computer always saying bad coolant temp sensor... what do you spray, the temp sensor part? Or the computer hook up?

21st Oct 2018, 01:04

I have had these same problems before.

With the wheel bearing, make sure that the anti lock brake dealy on the axle, that has the ridges all the way around that makes the anti lock brake grinding sound, is pressed on there tight and does not have any play. When I first replaced the wheel bearing, I thought it was normal for that part to be loose. It kept causing my wheel bearing to fail as well. Replaced the axle on that side and it quit ruining the wheel bearing.

As for the headlights, under the hood there is a little block box about the size of a pack of cigarettes. It is a timer that shuts the headlights off after 30 seconds or so. What happens is, on the back of it, there is silicone that keeps moisture from getting in there and shorting out. That moisture can get in there over time from wear and tear, which will cause the headlights to stay on. I too used to remove the fuse, until I found this out, then I just removed the switch. It will activate some warning light if you remove it, but you can turn your headlights on/off without having to pull the fuse. That or just replace the part, it's easy as hell. Hope this helps.

I actually sold that Jeep several years back and have been kicking myself ever since. Finally yesterday, several vehicles later, I bought another one. It really was a good rig. Just didn't realize it at the time. 4 year ago I bought a 2008 BMW 335xi. After owning that and working on it, I really missed the Jeep. Even though some tinkery issues arose with it, it always ran and got me home.

As for the BMW 335xi, out of the 18 vehicles I have owned in my lifetime, included cars I gave a $100 bill for back as a teenager, it has been the most unreliable car I have ever owned. It has never even lasted a full year without breaking down and being undriveable. I bought it certified pre-owned with a 20k mile warranty even. Day two it was back in the shop. Complete junk! It really makes you realize what is truly important in a vehicle. Low cost maintenance, parts availability, oh and this one might seem strange to the stereotypical BMW owner, but starting and driving to and fro are kind of important. Hope this helps.