Comments: 1-15, 16-30, 31-45, 46-50
This car went into the shop 2 months after I bought it. Over the past three years it's been in over 40 times!
Water is pouring out from underneath the dash from the A/C. As a result my car smells like mold.
Car often loses power while driving.
I've had just about every sensor, pipe, and belt you can think of replaced.
I bought the extended warranty, but it doesn't really cover anything.
Plastic top has expanded to be bigger than the car so it flaps in the wind on the highway.
On top of everything, I also find that many Kia dealerships are disappearing into the night. (Which is great for when you need to take it into the shop or have it towed somewhere)
Factory Radio turns itself up and down.
Center of mass and gravity are poorly positioned. It's a very tippy car w/narrow wheel base.
I'm riding the bus now while I wait for this thing to be paid off. I'm thinking about getting some old cheap reliable car in the meantime as well.
This car makes me want to kill myself.
Stay away from Kia! It's the worst piece of crap out there and in perfect condition they're worth about $5 after you drive off the lot... and who has one in perfect condition? You're better off getting a Volvo from the 80s before you buy this headache.
FIRST OF ALL...
KIA COULDN'T FIX A FLAT WITH AN INSTRUCTION MANUAL.
THEY WILL NOT FIX YOUR PROBLEMS QUICKLY OR CHEAPLY!
But...I think we finally found the FIX!!!
Does this sound familiar?
1. Engine RPM is unstable. Wanders between 1500 and 3000 RPM - AT IDLE!!!
2. Won't run when cold - Sputters and dies when you step on the gas.
3. No acceleration!
4. Engine light is always on!
5. Installing new components never fixes anything. You always end up back where you started or maybe worse.
Well after a thousand dollars, 30 days in the shop, and a an education in the stupidity of our local dealership, I now have the only Sportage on the planet that RUNS RIGHT! The problem appears to be completely in the electrical wiring. The manufacturer did a piss poor job of grounding the electrical system so your computerized car ends up with what we in the aircraft avionics repair field (Flight Controls, Navigation Systems, RADAR & Radios) call a "Floating Ground".
All those fancy electrical sensors in your car are trying to provide a specific voltage to your cars computer. They can only do this if they have both a good power input (Hot) wire and a good ground. If you loose your ground due to rust or dirt the electricity tries to follow "the path of least resistance" (We have all heard that phrase before). Unfortunately, the point the power finds to flow to, is almost never a solid ground which would provide little or no resistance. If you have a relatively high resistance ground (maybe rusted) the voltage output from the sensor which runs to your computer is distorted, so the computer thinks you have a problem and turns on the "Check Engine" light. It will also try (mistakenly) to correct the sensed error by increasing or decreasing the fuel flow to the motor or change any one of the hundred other things it controls.
The REALLY SICK PART about this whole thing is KIA has printed guidance on how to correct this problem in thier repair manuals. (1997 - 1999 PO101/HIGH IDLE.)
I got a copy!!!
Here it is...
1. Remove all terminals from connectors C144 (TP Sensor) / C129 (MAF Sensor), solder terminals, "retension" then install them into the connectors. Make sure the male terminals on the sensor side are not twisted and are in alignment.
2. Disconnect C123 / C124 / C161 (remove secondary lock if necessary) and retension all terminals.
NOTE: Always add one drop Stabilant 22A after tensioning the terminals, then apply to ECT, IAC and IAT sensors
3. Improve grounds at: G103 (R/F kick panel area), G104 (at intake manifold), G105 (battery tray ground).
4. Solder splices: S113 (around transmission bell-housing), S114 (at rear of fuel injection harness near #4 injector), S116 (front of fuel injection harness near #1 fuel injector), S192 (near bulkhead grommet at ECM, pin-71), S193 (4-8" off bulkhead grommet), S194 (at G103 branch), S195 (at MAF sensor near DLC split) - Splices may vary depending on model / year.
5. Check air filter
6. Start the engine and monitor the TP and MAF values. The MAF sensor should be approximately 3.5 to 3.6 gms/sec. The TP value should be between 400-600mV
or 10 to 11 degrees at idle.
7. Road test the vehicle and ensure all the readiness tests have passed and are complete. During the road test check the "HO2S1" as the vehicle is under hard acceleration. The voltage should be high noting a RICH condition. If the voltage stays low indicating a LEAN condition the feul system should be checked for contamination or blockage. Also check for cracks in the Catalytic converter which will cause incorrect readings by the O2 sensor.
8. LEAVE S113 TILL LAST. RE-SOLDER IT ONLY IF NECESSARY!
These procedures sound more like a method to correct a "Manufacturers Defect" than simple step by step repair instructions for fixing the turn signals or something else that may break or wear out. After all, in this entire procedure they never actualy CHANGE or REPLACE ANYTHING! But they sure did charge me for the labor!
Please let me know if this works for you too.!
Buy the way... the water dripping from under the passenger side dashboard is simply condensation over filling the "pan" under the cooling coils which is supposed to run thru a tube, out side thru the firewall. If you look under the hood at the wall behind the left side of the enine (a little over half way down) you will find a small
(4-5 inch) rubber "elbow" which should be pointed at the ground so the water can drip out. It is recognizable because the lower end of it is a formed rubber end with a real narrow rectangular opening---this gets plugged with dirt which causes the condensation from the AC unit to back-up and drip into the car on your passengers feet. Just remove the car battery and reach down there and simply slide the rubber fitting off the end of the metal tube coming thru the wall, clean it out and put it back on. Personally I found it easier and more effective to rotate the rubber spout upward then take the Shop Vac and simply suck out all the old water and the debris with it. Then I spin the rubber spout back down and put the car battery back in place. WORKS GREAT - NO MORE WET FEET.
Chris.
I have a 1999 Kia Sportage and love it. Just one small problem, the car is really hard to start.. but once going, runs great. I just read that there was a recall on some of these and wonder if that is part of the problem. It seems like it is not getting any fuel when I try to start it... a problem with the fuel injector?
The KIA Sportage is the worst investment I've ever made. There is a "so-called" alarm system installed. The gears have to be shifted several times before starting (at least, that's what I was told). This method keeps thieves from stealing your car. Yeah. If you want to get to work with a KIA, you need to catch the bus. I've had this car for a year and almost every other week it needs some kind of repair. The back driver's side heats up and we were told it could explode because it is near the gas tank. We have also had the water leakage problem from the air conditioner. The windows also stop working, at times. After buying the car, we were told it is a hazard to us, and we need to get out of it as soon as possible.
My name is Andy Lee & I own a 1999 Kia Sportage in Malaysia. I'm extremely disappointed with this lousy vehicle that actually forced me to look for solutions in this website. I've tried some of the suggestions Chris has brought up and I thought it worked to certain extent. The check engine light is definitely caused by a blockage in the catalytic converter. Make sure you don't replace it with Kia's converter as it's of lower quality, don't trust Korean products. I bought a re-conditioned Mitsubishi Lancer's catalytic converter and had it welded onto my exhaust pipe. The check engine light isn't caused by the Oxygen Sensor!
But the biggest problem I faced right now is the high RPM at idle, ranges between 1500 to 3000. The problem was I couldn't engage 4th gear when running on highway. Even if it could, it would drop to 3rd gear sometimes hence dragging the engine at high RPM with lots of noise. So I bought a 4-meter amplifier cable & cut it into 5 pieces. Then I soldered splices to the connectors (1 cable with 2 connectors). Then I grounded them near the fuel injector to the nuts at the side of the body. Engine then went back to normal (700 - 900 RPM at idle position) and smooth engagement of gear.
But this only helped for a couple of days before it acted up again. Therefore I've gotta change the position of the grounding each time the problem arose. I'm very sure that this is an electrical defect in Sportage. The problem is that the mechanics here in Malaysia's Kia Service Centers are not highly qualified staffs (don't even possess a degree or diploma) hence don't dare to attempt any electrical repair jobs. The only thing they'll ask you is to change the relevant sensors reported in the Hi-Scan handheld computer as "faulty".
Chris! If you ever read my comment here, please do drop me a mail at alwp@pc.jaring.my as I'd like to ask for your assistance on overcoming the problems. If there is anyone out there who would wanna share your experiences, feel free to drop me a mail too.
Andy Lee.
I own a 2000 KIA Sport-age. I was pleased with the vehicle for the first 21000 miles, that's when the troubles began. First I took the vehicle to get checked for a strange grinding like noise near the front end of the vehicle. The got charged for labor and some parts that "were not covered under the bumper to bumper warranty". After that the grinding noise continued and just got louder and louder over time. Every time that I took the car to the dealer they said that there was nothing wrong. The Jacket around the muffler got loose and that just added more noise to the orchestra. After a year of arguing with the car dealership, and by now I had about 49,000 miles on it, the Dealership agreed that there was a noise problem. The drive shaft was changed, and the problem was finally solved. The vehicle drove well for about 3 months and then the Engine light came on. This really tested my patience since I have always attempted to do right with this car, making sure that it's preventive maintenance is up-to date. The vehicle is now 4 years old with about 57,000 miles, 50 plus trips to the shop, countless of noise emitting parts, doors that refuse to open, rust everywhere, and blinking engine light. The only thing that works great on the vehicle is the Radio that I installed. Besides that, I agree with a lot of the other comments that have been made on this web page; "worse investment, better to buy a bicycle, take the bus instead". To summarize this, if you feel like buying a KIA (Killed In Action (as my friends refer to my vehicle) ), Save your money and get a bus pass, or prepare to buy lots and lots of aspirin. Mike, NY.
How do you change the fuel filter on a 2002 KIA sportage??? I can't figure any thing out on these piece of JUNK.
I have a 1999 Kia Sportage. I did have the problem with the air conditioner dripping water under the passenger side dashboard. Thanks to you for the tip about the rubber tube behind the battery. It doesn't leak anymore. Now my problem is my dashboard lights. Sometimes they are on and other times they are not. They may be off for a couple of miles then slowly come on dim and then back to normal. Sometimes they are off for a couple of days then they come on again. Any suggestions as to what the problem may be?
JC.
I have a 1999 Kia Sportage. I’m having some A/C problems. The compressor isn’t cutting on and off. Is there an A/C Relay and where is it located? Any other possibilities for this A/C problem, please let me know?
I have a 1999 Kia Sportage EX. Two weeks ago it just started to act up. I just turned 75,000 miles and the car just does not want to start at times. It will turn over, but no start. It does not matter if it is hot or cold out-side. I have had the dealer replace the fuel relay switch and the EGI relay switch. They then checked the ignition switch and the automatic transmission switch. I was told these both were fine, but, still I have this intermittent no start problem. Does any one have any idea why this is happening. Oh yea I also did take the ground wires from the fuel pump and checked and made better contact. The dealership says the fuel pump is also fine.. This is insane!! The dealership cannot even find out what the problem is?!. Any-one have any idea's I can check?. Any help would be appreciated.
I bought a used Kia Sportage 6 weeks ago and have had nothing, but trouble with it. It is a 1998 with 96k on it. The gas tank was replaced at dealers expence, the check engine light has been on since I got it. I have replaced mass air flow sensor, upper air intake because it was cracked. My biggest complaint right now is it races up to 2000 rpms. Does anyone have any advice? I am running out of ideas. Thanks.
I have a 1999 KIA Sportage and of all the vehicles I owned in my life, this is by far the worst. The newest and latest problem... water pouring out from under the passenger dashboard when the AC has been or is being used. NOBODY can tell me what is wrong, how to fix it. Everyone agrees it is from the A/C, but there doesn't seem to be anything wrong. Oh, and the dealership around here... forget it! The vehicle is no longer under warranty and the repair bills are ridiculous! They too agree it is the AC, but tell me it is probably a drain that is plugged-it should work itself loose. They can't show me the drain though-and I can't locate it in the Owners Manual in the section Engine Compartment.
I live in Northern Maine. The winters are rough and driving conditions horrendous with slippery, wet, icy roads or just plain bad roads. The vehicle is boxy and tippy, even in 4-wheel drive (or not) with the best of tires I have little to no traction and slip, slide and hold on for dear life up a 30% grade. If I make it up, I slip, slide and hold on for dear life down the other side!
I have replaced the entire exhaust system twice, had a brake job done, had 3 realingments, and still have a severe vibration after 50mph. The first and continuing problem is the engine cuts out completely-for seconds-and for no apparent reason-sort of like a hiccup. I have had the paint replaced on the areas above all 4 wheels a silver paint. This required the vehicle to be turned into the dealership for up to 2 weeks each time and it's been done 4 times. The paint has again peeled off revealing something like double backing silver tape-not paint at all. Nothing like a nice paint job to make you proud of a vehicle! The vehicle only has 60, 000 on it and every time I have a problem I take it to reputable mechanics or back to the dealership. I am somewhat mechanically inclined, but have brothers that are mechanics by trade. We all agree-if you want to waste your money-buy a KIA! Or throw it into the wind-it'll get you just as far!
If anyone has any idea how to fix my "water problem", please email me at sharon.mccarthy@us.army.mil. And if you have a KIA-I hope the Luck of the Irish goes with ya!
I also have a Sportage 1999, my god!!! All of the above problems and more, grinding in the front, new gear box, over 1000 $ and it was 2nd hand, instability like doing 360's for a slight swerve and not even wet! Air con leaking into front passenger side. Emmision light coming on and off since I bought it. Power windows not working. Back door lock stopped working had to get replaced, 100's of dollars. Newest problem I was driving home started loosing power car ariel going up and down loosing more power when blinker or fuel emmision light or even the brake is applied, thinking car possessed, phoned hubby said maybe wouldn't get home. By divine intervention made it turned it off. He looked told me to start it wouldn't start. Assuming alternator as brand new battery now dead. Loosing faith thinking I have been pretty patient.
I own a 1999 Kia Sportage Ex, 4 door, 4x4...and let me tell you this is the worse car my husband and I have ever owned! We bought it for about $6000, and have put into it about $4000, literally, in just a hair over a year's time. BE WARE OF THE FOLLOWING PROBLEMS: The front end truly came apart. We had to buy a "kit" for this problem, which cost $1300. The front wheels were literally sheered on their own from all connecting parts... I should have been dead if I had driven it one more time that day. The next problem is the air conditioning leaking all over passengers feet, followed by my power locks freaking out, and almost from a horror movie, they rapidly locked and unlocked, about 100 times per minute... it was something right out of a spooky movie... my only solution to that was to pull the fuse out that controlled it. No more power locks! Oh, and the windows are giving trouble with loss of power too. The engine light is ALWAYS on, and I too was told it was the mass air flow sensor, and the car TOTALLY looses power (I almost got killed literally, smashed from behind because of it, with my infant 2 month old son), the ignition switch is loose, and the key doesn't always turn, the exhaust had to be replaced (well before it should have), it needed a fuel module (gas pump?) replaced shortly after I bought it, and it has been to the mechanics so many times we have lost count. It's really BAD when Triple A, says to you on the phone..."AGAIN?" Nothing like having them see that your car is a lemon! My husband and I still owe about $5000 to pay it off, and my biggest wish is to have the money to pay it off, so I can take the car and title to the junk yard and have the satisfaction of watching the machine crunch it to death! And pray it doesn't come back like Christine (remember that movie?). Anyone got some extra helpful hints as to what they fixed, or if they need help/advice with the front end problem, please feel free to email me : VJBRIODY@NETZERO.NET Thursday, Oct 5, 2006.
In addition to what I previously listed (October 5, 2oo6-vjbriody@netzero.net), I also wish to state that the car's RPM's race uncontrolled, between 1500-3000+, which is very embarrassing in front of your church on a Sunday morning, it also has a defect on the locking hubs that enable four wheel drive... IT DOESN'T WORK!!! You need to buy two new locking hubs before it will work properly, otherwise it APPEARS to be in 4x4, but you don't have the control of 4x4. Another dangerous side effect, you won't have the 4x4 when you need it most---in the snow. A year ago, I also had trouble with the windows leaking. I also noticed the extra added door trims extremely limit your view, creating more of a blind spot, specifically when you're making a left or right turn, you can't see the car across from you.
My husband and I have just had our first child (son) in July. I just found this website and now am afraid driving this car. It's given us so much trouble, and I fear that it's just the beginning based on everything that I've seen people write in about. The hardest part, I WON'T sell it to a family, and when I do sell it, I'll need to be completely honest when I show it to the prospective buyer. I can't believe that the cars were ever allowed to be sold on the market. They were lemons from day one. VJBRIODY@NETZERO.NET.
You still owe 5k on that heap. If Kia sold me a lemon like that I would be driving it straight through the damn showroom.