17th May 2015, 03:47
Yep, probably a bad pump and lines. The pump is in the rear of the car if I recall correctly.
17th May 2015, 20:51
Considering it's a mechanical pump driven off the camshaft, it's unlikely to be in the rear of the car. The location of the pump can be found by following the fuel line off the carburetor down to the side of the engine.
If the fuel filter has not already been replaced, that should be done before replacing the pump. The filter may be clogged with old gasoline deposits if the car has been sitting for a long time.
20th Jul 2015, 20:31
We have a 79 Mark V that refuses to start. The engine turns over, but just won't start. It has a new carburetor, new battery, & new ignition coil. Fuel goes into the carburetor just fine when turning over. Any suggestions on what the problem is? Thanks.
23rd Jul 2015, 12:21
Does it have spark? If you take out a spark plug and lay it on the engine block, does it spark when you crank it? The coil might have been hooked up incorrectly; maybe the positive and negative are reversed, or the coil wire isn't seated properly. The distributor cap might have been jostled, etc.
24th Jul 2015, 03:05
Ignition column interlock fully in park?
Battery cable clamps brushed, tightened and clean, and a good clean cable ground?
24th Jul 2015, 13:36
Uh, if any of those were at fault, the engine would not "turn over".
Instead, check for spark as suggested in the preceding comment.
25th Jul 2015, 00:28
It shuts down. I would check the list. Poor grounds and heat can also shut down vehicles.
16th Aug 2017, 15:53
I have a very clean 1979 Lincoln Town Coupe for sale; where would be the best place to advertise it?
17th Oct 2017, 18:16
Looking for help with my 79 Town Car. Just had a full tune up, fluids, sending unit & everything I could think to get her running perfect again. For the most part it does, but after running or driving 20 or 30 minutes, she starts to hesitate & then shuts down. Called a mechanic to come get it, told him it's still doing it, & he got it back to the shop & it fired right up. He's been driving now without the problem reoccurring, so can't diagnose it. Anyone?.. not sure what next.
20th Oct 2017, 19:27
Yes, because this benefits others driving this year, make and model automobile in 2017. Plentiful today, which may benefit others with informative maintenance awareness.
21st Oct 2017, 14:25
Nope. Saying that a new coil "might" be defective is not very helpful. Not at all.
22nd Oct 2017, 10:53
Oh really? Well it happened to me and it was a hair pulling experience. Even worse than tracing a parasitic electrical drain on a RV. Do not assume that a new (which is often a rebuilt/offshore remanufactured) part is always A-1. You are still totally going through tracing an issue when the secondary new part was not curing the existing problem. So hopefully this validates my earlier comment.
22nd Oct 2017, 17:15
Totally agree with you on that one. Most if not all house brand (white box) replacement parts are made in China and are horrible quality. Years back the crank sensor went out on my Lincoln; I purchased the cheaper one and it failed a year later. After that I bought one from the Ford dealership and haven't had a problem since.
22nd Oct 2017, 21:08
Yeah, a "rebuilt" ignition coil?
Haven't seen one of those in a while. Or, actually, ever.
24th Oct 2017, 12:20
I buy all my light bulbs now at the dealer vs ones that burn out rapidly from a well known aftermarket distributor. I also had rebuilt starters that failed new out of the box. I should say newly rebuilt as we have a real stickler on here with his take no prisoner approach in comments made. Even with validity in them.
25th Oct 2017, 01:29
Your mechanic should have the appropriate equipment to check the ignition control module on the side of the distributor (Fords). They get corroded inside after so many years and short out after they heat up.