1995 Mazda 626 LX from North America - Comments

This is in regards to the

O/D light flashing-loss of power-then sudden jerking of car!!!

I had the same problem years ago. It's the Mass Air Flow sensor. Had it replaced at a Mazda dealership. Don't do it there though it cost me close to $400, not to mention on top of $200 I spent at Jiffy Lube "99% sure this service will fix the problem" he says.

(I know I know, Lesson Learned the hard way) good luck!

I have a 1995 Mazda 626 with 4 cylinder engine that is losing a good deal of coolant over time with no obvious leakage.

Has anyone had a similar problem?

Jay.

Jayd328@hotmail.com

no spam please.

Hey Jay looked at a 1995 mazada 626 today and it had a puddle of coolant under it and no sign of where it was leaking from. Thought it might be the reserve overflow take for the coolant, but couldn't tell, check that or your hoses and clamps. let me know what you find.

Just bought a 1995 mazda 626 LX for $750.00 today and it has 120,719 miles, going over it and doing regular maintence tomorrow, anything I should look for specifically? Anyone please let me know your experiences with repairs and what not. Pleade post your response on this site, Thank You.

I bought a 1995 4cyl 626 for $2000 in 2004 with noting wrong with it has over 130000 miles on it now and the only problem I have ever had was o/d light coming on because of the mass air flow sensor, but after that was replaced the car would die after I stopped at a red light so then I put the old sensor back in a friends suggestion and I haven't had any problems since the transmission and engine are fine the cars 11 years old now and no other problems have arose (knock on wood)

I picked up a very cheap 95 626 and the o/d off light started flashing after 3000 miles with the lurching from first to second. As I paid very little for this car I plan on driving it until it collapses. How far have people been able to drive with this problem until it dies?

I have a 95 Madza 626, and have it for about 3 years. Within the first 6 months of owning the car the transmission went out, we paid 2500 to get the transmission rebuilt. 3 months later the transmission went out again, and then 2 months after that it went out all over again. Yes the over driving light has something to do with it. But after the last time the transmission went out, we got smart to some of the problem.

THE OVER DRIVE LIGHT, YOU NEED TO TAKE HANDLE OUT THE GEAR SHIFTER AND COMPLETELY DISCONNECT THE OVER DRIVE BUTTON.

With this button being connect it causes the transmission to contenusly jump the gears from 4th to the over drive. Causing the transmission to go out.

Then after disconnecting that when the o/d light starts flash get somewhere and reset the battery to fix the computer. That's how my car has been going still.

When I bought the car it had 128,000 miles now it has 203,592 miles and still going.

I have a 1995 Mazda 626 LX 2.5l engine and ever since I bought it used it has had an overheating problem. I have replaced the radiator twice, all the hoses, belts, had the thermostat cut so that it is always open, replaced the water pump and timing belt. Had the pully's replaced to make sure they are pulling the belt around so that the water pump is actually working, replaced the fan/fan motor... I have used stop leak...everything, but the car still overheats. Used to, it would only overheat when I came to stop, then when would take off and drive it would go back (guess the wind kept the motor somewhat cool), now since replacing the water pump this past weekend, after driving for about 10 minutes it starts to creep its way over to the H, gets about 3/4 of the way there and steadily goes back and forth from almost H back to straight up Middle... heres something funny, when I come to a stop light, now instead of going H, it actually goes back to middle... This car is possessed. I think the only thing in over a year and half that I have not replaced is the Head Gasket/Block (whether it be warped or cracked), I hear its aluminium, meaning you can't take it and get it shaved or re-worked...I don't think this car is really worth all the money I have already put into it... I guess one think I can feel lucky about is that I do not have tranny problems like I have read... perhaps this car is just a lemon period..

Anyone have any ideas about this problem of overheating... oh yeah and for about the last 6 months, the check engine light is on, but no one can figure out why. Also when in idle, the car shimmy and shakes... I had my idle "turned up" but that has not helped... it acts like it wants to die on me...

I bought a 1997 Mazda 626 last July. I've been experience the same problems with the O/D light blinking with driving at highway speeds for a brief moment of time. This doesn't occur on the regular stop-n-go traffic. I've researched the problem with the error codes especially P1741. I've not experience any overheating or jerking, but I have noticed at time a 'CLUNK' that does make itself know when shifting to drive. I've purchased a new throttle position sensor (rockauto.com - cheapest price around) and will install this weekend, so I will post a follow up if the error still occurs. In addition folks, read this site http://www.dustbury.com/626/trans.html. It may give some insights. Overall we all know there's no cure to this problem other than just getting rid of the car.

To the last poster -- please do post your experiences with putting in the sensor. I have a 1999 Mercury Cougar with the same joke of a POS transmission as in many automatic 626/Ford Probe/Ford Contour/Mercury Mystiques. I started having the flashing light and rough shifting just like everybody else.

The fact that people have replaced entire transmissions once, twice, even three times leads me to think the problem might be electrical and not the tranmission. At least that's what I'm praying. This car has only 69,000 miles on it and has been great until this problem.

I wonder if all of us stuck with these transmissions can get in on the lawsuit, not just 626 owners? It's absolutely outrageous that Ford continued to produce these terrible transmission for ten years! And they wonder why they're on the brink of bankruptcy.

I have a Mazda 1996 626, And my comment is that it is the devil itself.

I have done many things: replacement of strut, clutch, and I am still working on the idle part.

I do know if you have a really charged up battery it runs just a little better.

For hand brakes, it's not the best; it will slide and it is very hard to maintain control while going. I have to use the E- Park to stop to keep going, at a stop light.

I am open to any suggestions, or answer to question through my experience with the Mazda 626 1996.

I do think that it is a bad idea to look at this car and call it a good car. I have many memories of digging in the dirt, and I have knee problems. It is my worst car ever, I hate it.

It's bad for business when I go somewhere. I drive an average 20-m 30-m a day and it's the roughest ride; the shocks bad because of a bent tie rode, idle socks to air filter housing. Valves I think might be because of a bad timing belt. I have experienced muffler falling off and replaced it with a home made exhaust; it was causing too much back pressure on the engine. I am redoing this system and it is looking down.

I cannot help the fact that I got screwed out of my Honda Civic for this unreal ungodly car. I really feel anybody who has owned this car is being in a real test of faith. Because I am not able to trade this car, I can't afford another car. I am a real employee at a job and a college student, and it's just hard.

E-mail at MCgallo@okstate.edu

I purchased a 96 Mazda 626 w/2.0l, I bought it cheap because the transmission was out and I knew of a cheap used transmission I could get a hold of. Anyway, I replaced it and it worked fine for a day or two then it started to slip. Everyone says it has to do with the trans fluid so I looked into a better fluid. I bought this stuff from Auto Zone, it's in the oil additive section. It's made by "Lucas" and after about two days with this stuff added the slip was gone. It used to take some gas for it to engage in reverse, but that's gone too. Hope this helps, by the way, my car shakes like horribly idling in drive, any suggestions?

Thanks

Manny.

I was looking for any solutions to the check engine light constantly being on. I have a 1997 Mazda 626LX, bought new to replace an 1985 Mazda 626DX with 185,000 miles totaled in and accident. Both are manual transmissions. Replaced the clutch in the '85 at 158,000miles, in the '97 at 95,000miles, not surprising since I am now driving in stop and go traffic. Neither of these cars has ever left me stranded. Back to the engine light. It first went on when I had the oil changed at one of those quicky places. The dealership fixed it, but at 100,000miles it went on again, they replaced the sensors, etc several times now. Each time the check engine light stays off for only 2-3 days. Fortunately, for me the dealership is reputable and has supplied me with a courtesy car and not charged me for the mechanics time. The last time it was there for 5 days and the mechanic contacted Mazda in California. He followed all there suggestions with no luck. Was hoping that someone had the fix for this. The car runs great, but that light being on will cause me problems when going through state inspection in April.

My father just bought me a 1994 Mazda 626 with the 2.5 liter V-6, automatic transmission, and it has about 150,000 miles. I have seen an endless amount of complaints about the transmission and the O/D light flashing, which I have fortunately not yet seen, but am terrified to later on. We bought this car from a well respected used car dealer, however I ran across the previous owners the other day and the man mentioned that it had a new transmission (how new, I am not sure...). The transmission usually jerks from 1st to 2nd gear, and when under medium to full throttle it totally slips when shifting into third, and it can be quite scary when hard acceleration is needed. Also, after driving on the highway I notice heat coming from the actually shifter, which seems a bit odd to me.

The alternator went out two days after my father bought it, however the dealer paid for its replacement. All of the struts and the rear brake rotors were replaced two days ago, and the front brakes were turned. I noticed that occassionally while driving, a squealing noise would occur, and under light braking pressure it would get much louder, then under more pressure it would go away, but when I would release the brakes, it would come back again. I'm not sure if it could be a bearing or something with the brakes, and I don't have the time to have my car with a mechanic... I don't know what to do!!

My 2000 Mazda 626 has been the worst nightmare of my life. I bought it from a dealer in a cafe. A friend of mine assured me I could trust this dealer. I paid her $200 cash for her help. Two weeks after buying this lemon, the rear tires blew out. A little later it started to leak fuel so badly the fire department had to be called. They issued me a permit to have it towed to the repair shop. Shortly after that repair the Check Eng Light came on. Checked and found Catylist efficiency low and below threshfold. Code PO421. Vehicle Cat should be under warranty. Mazda agreed. Defective Cat. Replaced at no charge. Engine begins to run rough. Mazda did Full Circle inspection. Advised me not to drive the car. Suggested to put in an EGR valve. Air conditioning is leaking. I have hired a lawyer. The car sits dead in my drive way. Car payments are $190 plus insurance. Any suggestions? Does anyone know of a Class Action with Mazda? Thanks. Unhappy in California.