1995 Mazda 626 LX from North America - Comments

I purchased a 1996 Mazda 626 LX 2.5L V6 in 1999 with 12,000km's on the clock. For the last 8 years I have had nothing, but driving pleasure from this car. The ride quality is excellent, the road noise is low, power from the V6 is great and fuel economy is also very good. The stereo is great quality and the leather seats are the best I have experienced in a car. Overall, the best car I have owned.

Over the last year I have had the radiator replaced after it sprung a leak, but that is not unusual on a car that is over 10 years old. Recently it developed a vibration in the transmission and have been advised that the transmission needs replacing. This is annoying in a car that have traveled only 124,000km's, but again, nothing out of the ordinary. The replacement cost is huge however as these parts are fully imported.

I would certainly recommend this vehicle to prospective buyers, but be aware of common faults and inspect carefully and know that replacement costs could be very high.

I have a 99 Mazda 626 LX 4 cyl. I've had it 7 years and have taken it from 26k to 110k on what I guess is the original transmission. I'm also very interested in a class action or recall, but will give some tips on what has worked for me so far.

I got some lurching, weird shifting, loud popping during down-shift on a sudden stop and the ominous flashing O/D off light. Since then, I baby the car by driving like a blue-haired retiree, and CHANGE THE TRANSMISSION FLUID FAIRLY FREQUENTLY. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THIS...DON'T WAIT TILL IT ACTS UP. (I don't do the $100 flush at a shop, just drain and refill in the driveway every 15k or so, but changing ALL the fluid couldn't hurt) NOTE: check dipstick. Haynes manual lists the fluid capacity as about 2x what it really is.

I'm going to install a cooler and will talk to somebody about the sonnax kit mentioned on another forum. (sonnax.com 71912-01K) as well as the $55 kit mentioned here.

I too have some SHAKING AT IDLE, particularly when the a/c compressor kicks in. Keeping the refrigerant charged helps the compressor not work so hard. It once got to the point that the engine would die. So, I REPLACED THE SPARK PLUGS AND WIRES. The shaking still happens, but the engine doesn't stop. I think the manual recommends this every 30k or so. If it doesn't, I do. It takes an hour and about $40.

I also had some ALMOST OVERHEAT and POOR A/C ISSUES - both from one cause. The CONDENSER COOLING FAN was not running. It should be running when the a/c is on. I connected direct to battery, motor was okay. I tested the circuit and found the RELAY was bad. (The one IN FRONT OF, not IN the main fuse box) ($10 from BAP imports) Look at the color-coding of the wires and it's pretty easy to check this circuit. A/C NOW WORKS GREAT and IMMEDIATELY, not after a half hour of highway speeds. (Keep in mind I live in PHOENIX, AZ)

I've put in brake pads, tires, plugs, wires, belts, and headlamps... all consumables.

Other than that and the relay, I replaced the mast on the power antenna ($16 from Pep Boys) and the front power door locks ($50 each) Mazda sells the whole assembly, not just the motor.

My 1999 Mazda 626's tranny went out last week. 82k miles, and might have to spend 3 grand on a rebuilt tranny that will just break again? I might let Al Qaeda sacrifice it for a IED car bomb just to get rid of it.

Sounds like Mazda's are terrible.

1995 auto Trani Mazda 626 gl owner with 137k miles.

So far I've replaced the whole front end except barrens. Recently the O/D stayed on and found the wife harness underneath the console has the O/D wire held to a plastic slit to keep it from tangling. It was broke at the slit. 2 weeks later the O/D is now flashing and feels like the tranny is banging when shifting.

I need one more year just to pay off the front end work. Thank god I have a stainless steel muffler. From all the reading up on this site I need to change the trani fluid, trani cooler, and possible speed sensor or air flow sensor. I also see bad rust near the hood mounts. EEEEEE Thinking about taking it back to mazda and trading it in. First I'll unplug the battery before taking it there. So there is no codes they can find. Then if they don't have anything worth trading for i'll have them change the fluid. Thx god I only put 8k a year on it. Good luck out there. Next time anyone buys a car and has that much trouble the first 3 days, the federal government gives 3 day to bring back any item you purchase. Just have to write a note telling the facts and that you don't want the item. Then hand them the keys. I once got a 6 year warranty when the dealor sold the car as a higher model then it was. I handed them the keys and told them they sold me a lessor car. I gave them the chance to rectify it and got the 5 year warranty for free. 800 for price difference, 1000 for warranty. The 97 Mazda ran out of warranty last year. Only used it once for an oil sensor. It's a manuel tranny is still going strong. About 80k on it.

Has anybody had issues with the manual transmission? because it seems you all have the same issues with the automatic tranny. I'm looking to buy a '95 Mazda 626. and it's kept well and has low miles and is in good shape. it's an LX so it's a V6 and it's a manual tranny. I don't expect it to have issues like the automatic, but it's good to ask. if you have any input email me please.

Trackstarflash@hotmail.com.

~Flash~

Hi everyone.

I read all your comments and found guilty that why didn't read these comments before buying my Mazda 626 1996 model. Actually I bought this car in Jan 2006 with 86060 miles and ran smoothly till September 2006. In between this period, I noticed two or three times o/d lights popping up and gear slips. Imagine it happened to me in highways when I am driving at the speed of 70mph. It's a petrifying experience. Later I am driving slowly and I didn't pay much attention to o/d lights off. When check engine showed up then things got really screwed, it showed the code P1744, torque converter solenoid... I really felt to bang my head into the wall. So far I have driven around only 6000 miles (92,101) in two years and I am not willing to spend my money on this useless car. I just want to rip this car by adding more mileage. Do anyone know whether lawsuit action against Mazda is still going on??? I wish to join myself...

I too have just purchased a 1995 mazda 626 for my daughter for $300.00. The A/C is ice cold and the guy says he is just not sure why the light keeps blinking, so I thought it must be an easy fix so I bought it. So, I took it to a local shop and they said it needed a new mass air flow sensor. It took one day and $390.00 to fix and the car drove great for about 7 Hrs. Then the light came back on and the car is running the same way it was the day I took it to the shop. Can anyone explain this.

Thanks, Kelly.

Hi I have a Mazda 626 LX 95 also and yes I have had my transmission rebuilt only once ill say about 4years ago I have had this car since it has been brand new n it has 277,000 miles.

But other than that my problems are head hurting my alternator has went out and my wheelz are not aligned well, but I guess this is what I should expect since it is 12 years old you know, but it is an OK car and all just transmission I guess! and bad shaking while in gear I'm wondering if it is time for another big tune up you know? air only blows, but not cold until night time what up with that???

Pray for me I'm going need it!

1999 Mazda 626 bought new, Transmission is starting to go out.

It has 112,000 miles which it sounds like I should be happy with (but I am not), bought it new, never did anything to the transmission (maybe I should of..?)

Considering rebuilding the transmission for $2500 since I have not heard of many engine problems.

I have replace timing belt, air conditioning belt, tires, spark plugs, oil and that is about it.

Bought 2001 Mazda 626 LX with 100,000 miles on Thursday ran/looked great! Drove it 600 miles to Crater Lake over following weekend and back, max 80 mph average 70mph, never used A/C, pulled off highway, stopped at light, then tried to proceed and lost all power! Used O/D on & off for hill decents to reduce brake wear in mountains during trip. Revved high, little forward motion. Hit O/D off switch to manually shift down, shifted down with clunk. Pulled into first gas station to check transmission fluid level and it was fine, no burnt look and at proper level. Got home, through manual shifting to step tranny into lower gear to start. Allowed to cool, drove later, same situation!

Now I am checking these extensive postings of what a piece of garbage this car is and thinking how 3 years of loan payments will be a monthly dose of gasoline to the fire burning in me!

What irks me most is this is a known problem, especially as I looked under the hood for an external tranny cooler which could solve this problem apparently to find none. My dad even told me today, that modern cars have the tranny radiator integrated into the main cooling radiator without need for an external one.

From what I read here, the external cooler is a mut point, giving the tranny has already gone.

How can a car company knowingly make a car that cannot handle highway driving? Why bother putting A/C in this thing which causes more engine heating, when it can't handle basic driving?

Hopefully whoever I get to buy this from me after I dump $2000 or more into the tranny, won't find these reviews.

I also own an 1989 626 LX with tranny problems. I bought it used with 145k done out with many aftermarket parts. I paid 3600.00 but am still very satisfied. I'm up to 178k and have only replaced the alternator and brakes. It is fun to drive, and I hope the tranny holds on a little longer. I also read that the tranny cooler in front of the rad is worth maintaining.

Kelowna B.C.

I paid $1800 for '95 Mazda 626 LX in 2004 and I spend at least $1500 on repairs on a constant basis. Even though I am still driving this Mazda, I will never purchase another Ford/ Mazda. It's 166K now and I worry constantly this car will stop soon. The previous owner rebuilt the transmission on 120K. Imagine; the previous owner paid $5000 at the dealer, and spent over $2000 just for her three-year stay in U.S.A.

Is it true that even with all the coolant/transmission problems, '95 Mazda still has the best engine around?

Just want to evaluate my options here on this Mazda,

Thank you.

Jjwu1@juno.com.

Hi All Readers.

I hope the following will help someone. I have a 1995 Mazda 626 4 cylinder with automatic transmission, 135000 miles. I've had the car for 7 years and with the exception of timing belt and front half shafts, I work on the car myself, with a lot of help from above. Some problems. This is not the best of cars, but when a problem comes up, and here is where the help from above comes in, I've done the right solutions, at least for this car.

I changed the rotor, distributor cap and wires at 70,000 miles. I change the transmission fluid every one and half years, more if I 'race' the car. I found that the Mazda replacement thermostats, placing jiggle pin up, works better than aftermarket, don't know why. I flushed cooling system, with garden hose at a normal low pressure, first the radiator, than the block and heater core. I cycle air-conditioner during winter. I've replaced the oil cover gasket at 115000 miles. Replaced the timming belt at 125000 miles, but I would not recommend you wait this long, just that my belt looked fine at 115000 - flexible with no cracks or splits. The $2 NGK plugs work better than fancy platinum and other exotics, although I haven't tried them all. The NGK give a smoother power band when accelerating.

Five years ago my transmission did the Mazda overdrive flashing light, bucking, shutdown, overflow fluid out of dipstick, heart seizure precipitating routine during a 2 hour

65 mph interstate drive. I pulled to a rest stop, let the car cool down for 1/2 hour added transmission fluid, drove for another 70 miles at 45 mph. At home I drained the transmission fluid, added new fluid, no problems since.

I've clean my mass airflow sensor, about every two years, with Chrysler's throttle bottle spray cleaner, shake out the excess and let air dry 1 hour before I reassemble it on the car. I use Auto-Zone semi-metallic front pads, $26, and - wow -do they stop this car. I use only Mazda rear brake shoes because they have more lining then aftermarkets. I've replaced the radiator, wasn't leaking, just for $120 for a quality radiator and the age and mileage of 124000 and easy replacement, why wait.

I changed the doors locks because of wear. At 135000 miles it looks like the rotor and distributor cap need changing.

I bought an imported (Japanese manufactured) 1992 Mazda 626 Automatic (4 cylinder) with very low mileage for its age.

Had no trouble until about 65,000 miles when original transmission died. Mechanic said it was the torque converter and recommended I replace the whole auto trans, which I did with 2nd hand one for about $1,700 because I could not afford new at about $5,000 or re-built at about $3,000. This replacement auto trans leaked fluid as soon as installed (mechanic replaced some gaskets, but leak not solved). Then the Hold Light began to flash. This occurs as soon as car reaches 26 mph, does not matter whether I am accelerating up or coasting down hill or on level road; it always comes on as soon as car hits that speed. After hold light starts flashing the auto trans shifting from 1st to 2nd becomes very rough, 2nd to 3rd is not as rough. However the transmission never changes to overdrive, so RPM are unusually high at highway speeds and fuel economy is bad.

Mazda dealer had no idea what problem was and said they did not have diagnostics for a car 15 years old. But he put in a new cooler line as he said old one was crushed. This made no difference at all (except to my bank balance).

Someone suggested checking voltages on throttle sensor and they were out of spec. They recommended to clean throttle sensor and recheck voltages; this did not solve the hold light and rough shifting problems; but voltages and idle speed (which was fast) are now back within spec. Wish I knew about the auto trans and hold light flash problems and had traded the car when it had done less than 65,000 miles. Now at 87,000 miles and at its age it is virtually worthless; so will drive it til it dies; because reading previous problems it appears that another change of automatic transmission probably won't solve anything. (john)

For all Mazda transmission sufferers - originally I was informed that a Lawfirm in Michigan (phone number 248-540-7660) was going to head up a claim for many of us that had experienced oxidized paint and replacing the transmission in our Mazda. I was informed today that the aforementioned lawfirm did not and is not planning to file a claim. So, does anyone know of a lawfirm that will be??? Please post if you know.