1995 Mazda 626 LX from North America - Comments

Comments: 1-15, 16-30, 31-45, 46-60, 61-75, 76-90, 91-105, 106-120, 121-135, 136-150, 151-165, 166-180, 181-195, 196-210, 211

25th Jan 2008, 11:52

I bought a 95 Mazda 626 about a month ago. It had 139,000 or so miles on it. When I took it for a test drive it sounded good, you couldn't even hear that the car was on. I took it home and within a couple of days I started to hear a ticking noise in the engine. When I told my father about it he took a look under the engine and couldn't figure what the problem was and at that he knows a little bit about cars. He went looking on the Internet and he said that my car was what they call a "throw away" car, and the the noise I heard was what they call the lifter tick which happens a lot on the Mazda's. I fixed that problem and went to do an oil change and motor flush and not even a week after that my transmission goes out at 141,000 miles. My car would jerk when I would push on the gas to get on the highway and my O/D light goes on when I'm not even using it. The car would shake when it was parked or when I would be waiting at a light and if I turned on my heater or ac it would also shake bad. I'm a 19 yr old full time student in college and need my car to get to school and back. I have 2 choices either sell it and buy myself another car (which can take awhile) or fix it up and risk having to fix again it later. The car is nice on the outside and inside it looks as if it was brand new, but whats the point of having a beautiful car if what really counts doesn't work. Any suggestions e-mail me at mexicana131988@yahoo.com. Thanks

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11th Mar 2008, 02:25

Hi, my 626 has all the above problems.

Back in 2002 my transmission went bad from the first week. We all know and agree that we have the same problem; why don't we talk about the fix if there is any? If I put in the cooling kit, am I getting transmission problem away or a m I just wasting money? Thanks.

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7th Apr 2008, 13:36

I have a 1993 Mazda 626 2.0L auto... I read a lot of the above comments and LMAO, I'm having the same problems... Check this one; I had my tranny rebuilt. The first time because it was really bad, it was beat and when you put it in gear it just grinded.

So I had the tranny replaced along with the axles at a reputable tranny shop for $2100, it was replaced with 114k. I got 8k miles out of it before I noticed a hard shift between 1st and 2nd gear and a hold light flashing. I called the tranny shop and after numerous attempts... external cooler, adjustments.. etc they said I needed to wait for another tranny rebuild.

So I waited... got it back with a new rebuild (2nd one). No problems whatsoever for a few days (less than 100 miles) BAM! The hold light of death is still blinking and it's shifting bad between 1st and 2nd! The transmission shop insists that I have a computer, sensor, or signal network problem.

Now, after the "jumper wire" diagnosis between the sti and grd, I count the engine light blinks... I come up with a code 68. Does anyone know what a code 68 is... (dealer says if it's the hold light it should be a tranny trouble code) because it's not listed anywhere.

What is going on with these 626's?

Is it the tranny? (The shop insists it's not) A sensor?

A computer signal error?

What is a code 68?

I will never buy the headache of a Mazda again!

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25th May 2008, 05:25

This car is no doubt evil incarnate. I also had the tranny replaced about 4 years ago. The car would jump hard from 1st to 2nd and the O/D light would flash. I would recommend a salvage or junk yard I got the tranny replaced for $1100 that way and haven't had problems with it since.

I am however having problems with the IDLING. I've managed to reduce the IDLE SHAKE a lot in this car since when I first got it by replacing the motor mounts, A/C condenser fan, and the IAC Valve (Idle Air Control Valve). After I replaced the IAC the car's idle seemed a lot better. It used to dip under 800rpms while idling at a light with the A/C off. With the A/C on the car would go dangerously low to about 300rpms and sometimes the engine would die. Haven't had that happen since I replaced the IAC valve. However, idling with the AC on the car still vibrates uncomfortably, but without turning off. A mechanic tells me that this may be because of the idle timing being off or I'm thinking after reading these posts the MAF sensor. If I ever get this car to stop idling rough ill post it everywhere I can to help anyone out there.

My last words are that I would not recommend this car to anyone considering buying one. This car has a lot of problems even with regular maintenance and parts are hard to find or very expensive. I'm going through school and working a full time job so I have no other options but to keep it running for as long as I can. Insurance is too expensive even on a used car for anyone under 25..

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17th Oct 2008, 13:32

I purchased this car back in 2001 and all I have had are problems. This is the perfect car to make you bankrupt. No matter what you fix or how much money you spend on repairs, there is always something else that needs to be looked at. Stay away from MAZDA. These comments show a history over the years of how terrible MAZDA was in provided solutions to all our complaints and transmission problems.

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29th Oct 2008, 12:36

Happy people are we. Bought 95 626 Nov. 08,had to replace mass a/f $300.In order to get car in neutral from drive, have to go into reverse first. Have problem when car comes to a red light/stop sign, will not idle. Just read comment on that matter and hope it is I.A.C, Paid $100 for car,$300 for mass a/f, so at this piont I'm still ahead of the 95 626 game. Thanks for all if the input and good luck all. NASHVILLE.TN.

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19th Dec 2008, 13:16

We had a manual 95 mazda 96 it was a very reliable car so when a tree fell on it we found a automatic 95 mazda 626 we could purchase with the insurance money. the car shakes while idling and in the summer the trans bucks all around especially around 30-40mph. my belts were squealing but we fixed that by tighting the pulley systems that hold the belts on. my car has 180,000 miles and is already on its second transmission, I plan on driving it to the ground and using the parts to fix the manual which we kept in our backyard.

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29th Dec 2008, 15:28

I just happened upon this website and am so shocked to hear of all these problems with the 626.

I purchased (for the bargain price of $1300) a 1995 626 in January 2008. I am the third owner of this car, the previous owners were my ex-boyfriend and his dad before that.

The car had 143,000 miles on it when purchased. It is a manual, which I'm grateful for now that I've seen this site.

Having had the car for just under a year, I just had to make my first repair (at 156,000 miles). Smoke started coming from the front left wheel well, thought maybe something was up with the brakes. Turns out it had sprung a bad oil leak that was dripping onto the exhaust. $300 later it's as good as new. Not that I had $300 to spend 2 days after Christmas... but still, considering that the car is 14 years old and has over 150k on it... not too bad.

I love my car, it looks great and even the guy who repaired it commented on how well it drove. It sounds like if you get the auto transmission, you're in for trouble. But the manuals are great cars... at least mine is.

In the year I've had it, I've taken several long trips and never so much as a hiccup. Love my Mazda... but will always stick with a manual. I of course keep up with regular maintenance such as oil changes every 3000 miles, etc.

pedalgirl@gmail.com

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5th Jan 2009, 14:25

OK, my Mazda 626 V6 has 140,000 miles so far.. I have no problem yet.. it could be that I'm not beasting the car or it could be me keeping daily maintenance on the engine and transmission.. if you drive like you're driving a Nascar everyday, yes the Mazda or any car will start showing problems... just drive normal and keep maintaining your car, or you be like the comments above me.. good day.

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25th Feb 2009, 03:14

I bought a 1995 Mazda 626 V6 (manual trans. with 166,000 on it) for $550 the other day that needed new belts and a new alternator, but so far, other than the check engine light coming on every once in a while, and then going back out, it has been a great car and runs fantastic. Hoping it continues this way..

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14th Apr 2009, 11:04

I've had a Mazda 1995 626 for about 2 years already with no major problems, but last week after been stuck in a heavy traffic where you stop and go very often, the O/D Off Light starts flashing and never go off again. I also find my car struggling when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. I want to thank this website and specially the comments from the ones who help me identify my problem and fix it, thank GOD it did not cost me anything but a few minutes.

Here is my theory of what happened to my Mazda, reading on this site I found that after being pressing the brakes on and off very often, this could cause the master cylinder to get full of fluid and get overheated, creating the O/D Alarm flash continuously, I believe this is what caused my car to start doing this flashing thing, then I follow the suggestion unhooking my battery for 10 minutes and the O/D lights went off after that, now I feel my car changing gears smooth and easy as before.

I really suggest to reset the computer unhooking the battery as soon as you see your O/D Light start flashing, and avoid driving your car until you make the flashing light go away, this will avoid damaging your transmission and not having to replace it, which will cost you a lot $$$….!

It was really worth it to read all the comments on this site and I thank you all, but I really thank to those two comments that help me solve my problem…!

Good Luck…!

SergioSaa.

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2nd May 2009, 16:41

I bought a 1993 Mazda 626 automatic about 2 weeks ago, and since then I have had nothing but trouble. It is now sitting in the shop awaiting a transmission. At this time I do not have the money to replace it, so it will have to wait.

I bought the car for $700, dumped $300 into it right away with doing a bunch of minor repairs, tune-up and fluid changes. Now it needs a transmission.

My car hesitated to go from 2nd - 3rd gear and I didn't worry to much right away, but then it got to the point where the car will not do anymore then 40mph. The RPMs sky rocket and the car just doesn't have the umph it did before. I am devastated as I spent the money on the car, bought it from a church Pastor and then BAM it's in the shop.

I am a full time college student and working 3/4 time just to get by. So if anyone has any suggestions or has a transmission from a 1993 Mazda 626, 1993 Ford Probe, or a 1993 Mazda mx6 just laying around and it works please contact me ASAP. It is important. MUST BE FREE TO CHEAP PLZ!!!

I live in Washington state.. Will travel to Oregon, will pay postage otherwise.

Whenur_nluvonlyhematters@ymail.com...

Jessika.

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3rd Oct 2009, 17:46

I own a Mazda 626 2000. Purchased it in 2006 for $7000.

It is an automatic and I now have 141,000 miles on it (65,000 when I purchased it.) I have read the extensive complaints about this car, and it is frightening to see all these issues with this vehicle. My O.D light is coming on intermittently,

so this is a cause for concern. I change the oil and filter every 3000 miles, as well as the transmission fluid every year. Is this the reason I am "lucky" with this car?.

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15th Oct 2009, 15:36

I've got a 95 Mazda 626 with 184,000 miles on it. I have had to replace the transmission. My mechanic says the transmissions on these cars are poorly designed and the transmission fluid gets overheated and dirty. He said to fully flush (not just drain) the transmission fluid every 30,000 miles.

I've also got the engine warning light that comes on periodically. My mechanic looked the car over and couldn't find anything wrong. Haven't figured that one out yet.

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3rd Nov 2009, 13:00

I have been battling issues with my 2002 Mazda 626 for the last 4 out of the 5 years that I have had it.

My transmission has been replaced a minimum of 4 times, and all within the time span of a few months. After realizing that no transmission specialist or mechanic would be able to help my issue, we have done our best trying to keep up with over-regular fluid changes. I am 2 months from paying the car off and it's died once again. Every story sounds like mine. I also called the Michigan lawyer and got a very frosty response that yes, while at one point they were considering the case, they have decided it would be better tried 'in another state'.

Well, I am here to say, I have spent more money on this used car than I have on anything in my life. It's safe to say that this car has cost me a total of $40k, and still racking up. A class action lawsuit is needed. Anyone ready? If I have the supporters, (which it seems I should), let's get our names and numbers together and take it to a lawyer, in California.

E-mail- elitedigitalbath@hotmail.com.

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