Comments: 1-15, 16-30, 31-45, 46-60, 61-75, 76-90, 91-105, 106-120, 121-135, 136-150, 151-165, 166-180, 181-195, 196-210
Recently my son's 96 Mazda 626 experienced the O/D light flashing problem. I had the transmission flushed and refilled, but the problem continued (intermittent). After further investigation, I found that the master brake cylinder was fluid locked and not releasing the front brakes after a short period of applying the brakes while driving. This drag apparently loaded the engine and transmission causing excessive heat/hot fluid and was detected by the computer as an error. Replacing the master cylinder, which allowed the brakes to release properly, has seemed to cure the problem.
I have a 96 Mazda 626 (bought new) and have 83,000 miles. on it. Recently on three different occasions after driving the car a total of approx. 15 to 25 miles; after I stop and try to restart, it continually starts and dies. The speedometer needle jumps all over the dial each time I turn the ignition on and the odometer spins (adding mileage). After it sits for a few hours, it starts and drives fine.
First trip to the dealer: Couldn't find a problem. The problem didn't show up for them. Second trip: They said it was a sensor problem (moisture in the contacts). Third trip: They say the transmission torque converter is falling apart and that's causing all of the problems and I need a new transmission to the tune of $2,900! I've never owned a Ford product and never will. I was told by the dealer when I bought the 626 that the drive train hadn't been converted to Ford components yet. Other problems also, but minor compared to this. Overall... Mazda is an inferior product and I wouldn't advise anyone to buy it.
I bought a 97 Mazda 626 about a year ago and have had nothing but problems since. luckily it hasn't broken down, but I did replace the fan belts twice and the o/d light blinks, which seems to have something to do with wet driving conditions I also received numerous engine lights for sensor problems. I bought a CV reader which restarts the computer and turns off the engine lights. the o/d light will turn off if I turn off the car and start it back up. however if I continue to drive with the light on it jumps through the gears... hopefully I won't have to get a new transmission and its just a screwed up computer.
We are just now selling our 95 626 (automatic), It has 100 000KMs on it (60 000 miles) and we had to replace the transmission about 10 000 kms ago. Our insurance covered it (original owner had extended plan) with 3 weeks to spare! We were alerted to the tranny issue by the O/D light coming on and staying on. The dealer later told us it was just faulty wiring in the O/D light that caused it to come on and that it was coincidence that the tranney needed replacing (the car was always a bit sluggish, but not too bad). However, after reading these posts I'm sure the O/D light was, in fact, warning us of impending disaster.
Oil gasket leak just fixed.
Struts will need replacing, we were told by a dealer, in a little while.
We are moving on to a 94 Volvo 850 Turbo.
I wish I would have found this site before I bought my Mazda 626. I have a 1998 626 with only 50,000 miles on it and the transmission just went out. It will cost $2,700 to fix. I will never buy a Mazda or a Ford for that matter again.
I have a Mazda 626 1997 and it shakes like crazy at idle in drive and especially with the a/c on. I have changed a bunch of sensors, had the timing belt redone because they believed it was off a tooth or so. Does anyone have a suggestion how to fix this problem so I can get rid of it? Thanks, Carlos.
I bought my 1995 Mazda 626 in 1996. I now have 122,000 Km on it. Recently the O/D light started blinking. The car jumps in out of gear and jumps. My mechanic referred me to a reputable transmission shop. I have been told that a rebuilt transmission will cost me $2,400 while a new one will run $5,000! Needless to say this is the last Mazda I will ever own.
I bought a new 1995 Mazda 4 cylinder in April 1996. Replaced rear struts at 50,000 miles-no big deal. Very pleased with car until I had to replace transmission at 78,000 miles (Dec 2001). Transmission was overheating and O/D light blinking. Dealer technical response was "something inside the transmission is causing it to overheat." New transmission (they said it was new) cost me $2400. I started to research 626 problems on the web and was surprised to find all the problems with the transmission and that Mazda was well-aware of problems, but doing nothing for the 626 victims. Now, at 94,500 miles, my O/D function has ceased to work, but transmission seems to be working well otherwise. I hope this is an electrical connection problem, I just can't afford to keep pumping money into poorly-designed transmissions. This will be my last Mazda (or Ford, for that matter-guilt by association).
TO ALL MAZDA 626 WITH TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS--
You should find out if your 626 has a transmission cooler. A cooler looks almost like a small radiator. If not then you should try to get one installed.
Transmissions fail in automatic because they do not have a cooler so the fluid gets too hot and overheats and ruins the transmission.
Ditto with all the transmission problems. I have a '97 626 with 124,000 kilometers on it. Dealer says there's a problem with the torque converter and my only choice is to replace the transmission.
So I'm just going to drive it till it won't go anymore.
No more Mazda's for me.
I just had the transmission in my 1996 Mazda 626 replaced. on my way home the overdrive light started flashing. does anybody know what the problem might be?
After reading all the comments of the newer 626's I think I'll stay with my 1989-91 mazda's. the tranny has 312000klms on it (flushed every 100000 klms). Mazda should have kept building there own product as the comments are not positive for the 93 and up mazda 626.
Everyone with a Mazda 626 - GET RID OF IT NOW WHILE YOU STILL CAN!!! I have spent over $1500 fixing my 1994 626 in the two short years that I have had it. After spending $700 in the past few months, the o/d light began flashing and the mechanic told me the transmission was going out. I still have $2000 left to pay on the vehicle and now I have to buy another car. I filed a complaint with Mazda, Consumer Affairs, NHTSA, and the dealership where I bought the car. I have read over 400 testimonials of the same exact problem with various years of the same car. Anyone else who has experienced this terrible problem needs to file a complaint with NHTSA and make Mazda responsible for their faulty products!
Good Morning--
I, too, am the unfortunate owner of a 1995 Mazda 626. As I say often, my oil changes cost in excess of $1,000 each as every 3,000 miles or so I have major problems.
My latest happened on Sunday. My car stopped almost at the top of an overpass--a very dangerous position. I had the car towed and was told that the fuse that controlled the fuel injectors had blown. Unfortunately, the repair shop could not tell me why the fuse had blown. They kept the car for three days and test drove it, but could not find a problem. Therefore, they have informed me, it could happen again. This is quite frightening.
Has anyone else had similar problems and do you know the source of the problems.
Thanks.
E. C., Louisiana.
My sister has a Mazda 1991 model 626 here in Phoenix Arizona. It often has a problem starting up and running. The car will start reliably, but as soon as the key switch is released back to the Run position, the engine dies instantly. Often she can get it to start by the fourth try. Once when she could not, she had it towed to the dealership. The dealer kept it for about 3 days, but was not able to reproduce the problem at all. Although the car has so-far not stalled once it has been running, I worry that it could stall unexpectedly on the freeway or during a left turn. I am also afraid it might not start if the engine is turned off, and leave her stranded somewhere in this hot desert.
I am looking for suggestions about how to reproduce/diagnose/fix this problem.