26th Feb 2009, 16:34

Hi I have a 160. After it warms up and the choke comes off, and I slow down for a junction and stop with my foot on the brake, the car idles at 500, then 300, then stalls. If I try to pull it out of gear and rev it, it doesn't do anything.

6th Mar 2009, 07:50

Not too sure whether or not to buy the A160 for my wife anymore after reading some of these posts.

Any advice? Anyone...?

15th Mar 2009, 22:22

My advice is to buy with all confidence this wonderful car. The best is the normal 5 speed manual gearbox with normal clutch. If you know how to drive carefully the automatic clutch (not leaving first engaged in a red light, not to over use the clutch, just as you would use a pedal clutch, then it is also reliable the automatic clutch -AKS- but many owners don't realize they are using their clutch in these cars in a manner they never would in a normal car).

As far as I know, the automatic transmission in this model did have problems, just avoid that one.

Otherwise, the engine is sturdy, the transmission -manual- might last as long as the engine; the suspension should be checked before buying, but only some units had an specific problem. I don't know well why the reviews coming from the UK are displeased with this model. I have rented for long periods 2 in France, wonderful cars -an A-140 LWB, and an A-160. I bought 2 A-160, petrol -not diesel-, in 1999 and both have only given me great service, high mileages -192,000kms- and no problems. I respect all the scheduled services and my Mercedes dealer gives an excellent quality work. I am surprised by these cars by the opposite reasons that most in this web site: their durability -never changed anything abnormal, just normal servicing- and reliability -I have never been left stranded by these cars. I cannot say the same about my 325i F1 SMG 2005 BMW, although it is also a great car.

16th Aug 2009, 04:58

I have an A140 2002 Mercedes and I purchased it with a faulty ECU for not a lot of money, and was told from $1500 to $1800 to repair in Australia or $3000 from Germany for a new one.

I discovered a company in Nottingham, England who repair Mercedes ECU and other cars, so I sent it to them and they were just great, from Australia to England, repaired and sent back again. Total costs $603.00, total 6 days.

Don't get ripped off, it only takes a little effort to remove and refit; make sure your ignition is turned off, remove the 3 bolts holding the unit in place and the 2 electrical plugs on the back (they have slide locks push to side and they come out easy). There is a small air hose at back bottom, carefully unclip it, doing everything slowly, and you will do just fine. To refit it's the same procedure, just remember ignition OFF, and reconnect.

Before starting with your repaired ECU, leave the ignition turned on for 30 seconds and also turn on your parking lights; this apparently reduces power surge to the ECU computer. Not sure if it's necessary, but I did it anyway. Now start your car; it may take a couple of days to settle down and some lights may remain on for that time, but don't worry as they will all reset themselves, providing nothing else is wrong with your car.

Hope I have helped, regards Rob.

9th Jan 2010, 15:29

I purchased a 2001 A140 in Scotland. First day of driving, the windows failed to close. Over the following months the engine failed, the electrics failed, the instrument panel failed and more. Since then the car has given constant problems. The steering column had to be replaced. The window motors had to be replaced. The suspension and wheels have had to be replaced. Mercedes once took the car for weeks (whilst still under warranty) and failed to provide a replacement car. When the car came back, they had lowered the mileage. When I raised the issue, they failed to correct it.

I would never buy a Mercedes again. Not because of the faults with the car. Rather for the faults in their customer service. They know these problems. They are mostly design faults, and yet they fail to acknowledge their liability. It has always been hit and miss as to whether they fix problems at their cost or at mine. Avoid the A140, and it's better to avoid Mercedes.

25th Mar 2010, 21:25

I've got an A160 2000 Avantgarde, and all the problems other people have had, I've got it. You name it. Driver side electric window not functioning, plastic seat lift replaced, the engine stall and the F symbol comes up from time to time (I think it stands for F*&k), the car dances in traffic if you know what I mean, not a very comfortable car to drive, coz it shakes a lot.

8th Jul 2010, 00:48

Hi! I've just got a second-hand year 2000 A160 automatic with 47,000+km on-board. As mentioned earlier by others, nice little car to own and drive around.

My comment : interior too plasticky and noises from dashboard - can't seem to locate the origin.

Now another problem of reverse gear not able to engage properly, especially when the engine is cold in the morning. And if it does engage, then it will jerk when reversing. Once driving continuously and engine warms up, then no problem with reverse gear when parking. Funny thing is, all other driving gears engage without any problem. Wondering if anyone is experiencing such problems, and has any solution?


21st Sep 2010, 21:22

I'm having all of the above symptoms with a 2000 A190 Avant Garde:

Broken seat handle, clunking into reverse gear, horrible cold start, ABS light constantly on.

This is the worst vehicle I've ever purchased, and I'm tired of having it serviced and not repaired. The vehicle appears to be irreparable.

17th Oct 2010, 06:49

I have just bought a A160, and it's terrible; broke down with the F warning three times for a 1hr trip. Only had the car for a day; can't wait what happens after a week.

19th Oct 2010, 21:34

I have a 2001 A160, purchased in 2006. It worked fine for the past 3 years, but the last year was hell.

I had the seat adjuster break off from the first month. I didn't worry too much. I have had the F problem but fixed it myself without the expensive repair. I had the air sensor go bad and had to repair the ECU (did it myself). I have had the BAS ESP light (figured out how to kick it back off when it comes on), had my power locks failed (still waiting for the part for it) and now I hear a funny noise coming from the engine.

I have decided to get rid of the car. I'm getting a Rav4 at the end of the month.

24th Oct 2010, 09:23

I have a 10 yr old A160 Elegance. After a weekend away, driving faster than normal, it has come back with a growling noise when the car is moving. When it is stationery, the engine sound is the same, just changes when it is moving (in a different way from before).

I have taken it for a service, but they haven't come up with any specific problem. Should I be worried? I plan to return to the mechanic tomorrow. Any hints as to what could be wrong are helpful. Thanks.