2000 Mercedes-Benz A-Class Avantgarde from Australia and New Zealand - Comments

Comments: 1-15, 16-30, 31-41

12th Jun 2008, 21:14

I have a W-reg A140 and I think it is absolutely fantastic!

Best car I have ever had, bought it from new and have not had one single problem, apart from a flat battery... but that was my fault because I left the lights on.

Some friends have just bought the new A-class and also rave about how fantastic it is..

Well recommended!

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24th Sep 2008, 03:30

My A160 Mercedes, registration number CFM18463, year 2002, has had problems when pulling away since we bought it.

She was slow to engage into 1st gear when the vehicle came to a stop. Almost as if the 1st gear would not engage in time. At pull away she would be very sluggish. This would not be the case every time. If you stopped on an incline, the gearbox would make a crack noise when she engaged, and then she would kick in and the wheels would spin.

The car has done 90,000km, and Mercedes Benz replaced every unit and every sensor on the vehicle with no luck. The only unit which was not replaced was the gearbox control unit.

Last month upon returning from a trip, the BAS light came on, and to cut a long story short we were told the gearbox electrohydraulic control unit packed up.

We wrote letters highlighting the initial problem to the dealer, and when the unit packed up this was forwarded to Mercedes Benz SA. They came back stating they cannot stand good for the faulty unit.

I am utterly convinced that the problem that manifested itself right from the onset was the forerunner of the defective gearbox electrohydraulic control unit.

I request that you give me an answer on this,

Regards

Pieter Kruger.

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20th Oct 2008, 08:43

I recently bought an A160 (1999) second hand from Japan. It's only done 60,000Km.

I have not been able to even drive it for one day because the gears do not engage. It shows an F on the screen. Seems this is a common problem because a colleague of mine bought the same, except that it is an A190 (2000) but has the same problem.

Anyone with a solution please reply to kitbeat@yahoo.com

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16th Jan 2009, 17:13

I have had an A140 for almost 4 years.

Timing chain snapped as the tensioner was set too tight; 1,200 cost.

Drivers seat adjuster snapped off, boot jammed, window on drivers side fell down, could not get it up, and now severe knocking noise on passenger side; think it might cost 1300 pounds to repair for a steering rack.

Would not buy Mercedes again.

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25th Feb 2009, 16:18

I have a A190 Avantgarde W Reg - the "F" fault appeared whilst I was on the motorway in 5th gear - could only move from 5th to neutral or back to 5th. Once stopped it went into the other gear but kept jumping back to "F". Went to garage to be reset - could not find a fault. This then happened one night driving home in the snow and it was pretty scary.

However, I have found out how to rectify this!! If you actually stall the car - this then resets the computer allowing you to start the engine and move through the gears - this happened three weeks ago and so far no recurring instances - I had lost faith in the car slightly but now that this rectifies it I am quite happy to keep the little car for the time being at least.

Perhaps you could try stalling the engine and let me know this solves your problems too! Alicia X.

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26th Feb 2009, 16:34

Hi I have a 160. After it warms up and the choke comes off, and I slow down for a junction and stop with my foot on the brake, the car idles at 500, then 300, then stalls. If I try to pull it out of gear and rev it, it doesn't do anything.

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6th Mar 2009, 07:50

Not too sure whether or not to buy the A160 for my wife anymore after reading some of these posts.

Any advice? Anyone...?

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15th Mar 2009, 22:22

My advice is to buy with all confidence this wonderful car. The best is the normal 5 speed manual gearbox with normal clutch. If you know how to drive carefully the automatic clutch (not leaving first engaged in a red light, not to over use the clutch, just as you would use a pedal clutch, then it is also reliable the automatic clutch -AKS- but many owners don't realize they are using their clutch in these cars in a manner they never would in a normal car).

As far as I know, the automatic transmission in this model did have problems, just avoid that one.

Otherwise, the engine is sturdy, the transmission -manual- might last as long as the engine; the suspension should be checked before buying, but only some units had an specific problem. I don't know well why the reviews coming from the UK are displeased with this model. I have rented for long periods 2 in France, wonderful cars -an A-140 LWB, and an A-160. I bought 2 A-160, petrol -not diesel-, in 1999 and both have only given me great service, high mileages -192,000kms- and no problems. I respect all the scheduled services and my Mercedes dealer gives an excellent quality work. I am surprised by these cars by the opposite reasons that most in this web site: their durability -never changed anything abnormal, just normal servicing- and reliability -I have never been left stranded by these cars. I cannot say the same about my 325i F1 SMG 2005 BMW, although it is also a great car.

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11th Apr 2009, 18:58

Hi,

I just wanted to chip in and say that buying an 2001 A160 was the worst decision I have made for a car. I have never had as many problems with any other car as I did with the Merc in the 1 1/2 years I've owned it.

The seat handles broke off in days from purchase, but being a very common problem, the dealer had a big stock of them in their shop.

The transmission still sounds weird with some electrical buzzing when shifting gears.

Front wheels/engine whine and cry when turning slowly left or right in first gear, but this only happens sometimes so cannot be replicated for the mechanics;

A 'thump' is heard in the area between the radio and the engine when driving or changing gears;

Then it needed a new battery, which cost NZ$250; then 2 months later it was found that the alternator was barely working and was charging intermittently and needed to be rebuilt (the cheaper option than buying a new one) for NZ$2000;

After that, the car started to have problems on start up, with revs dropping very low at first, and then not starting at all after 4-5 key turns. It sounded like it could be the choke (A160 have automatic choke!) or that it needs tuning, but when taken for a diagnostic, it was discovered that the Air Mass Sensor was faulty. This normally costs about $500, but since Mercedes managed to make the Air Mass Sensor built into the ECU they would need to order a new unit from Germany to be made at a cost of NZ$4500, which in total makes the repairs costing almost as much as the car is worth.

Funnily enough, all the negative feedback about this model came AFTER I purchased it! If I had known that this car is a total lemon, I would not have bought it. The sad thing is I still love the look and the feel of having a Merc, but the troubles are SO not worth it. Looking into offloading it now and buying a Toyota or a Honda.

Do not buy this model, do not be fooled by the name! Even though it looks so pretty, if you buy it be prepared to pay double!

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16th Aug 2009, 04:58

I have an A140 2002 Mercedes and I purchased it with a faulty ECU for not a lot of money, and was told from $1500 to $1800 to repair in Australia or $3000 from Germany for a new one.

I discovered a company in England who repair Mercedes ECU and other cars, so I sent it to them and they were just great, from Australia to England, repaired and sent back again total costs $603.00 total 6 days.

Don't get ripped off, it only takes a little effort to remove and refit; make sure your ignition is turned off, remove the 3 bolts holding the unit in place and the 2 electrical plugs on the back (they have slide locks push to side and they come out easy) there is a small air hose at back bottom carefully unclip, doing everything slowly, and you will do just fine. To refit it's the same procedure, just remember ignition OFF, and reconnect.

Before starting with your repaired ECU, leave the ignition turned on for 30 seconds and also turn on your parking lights, this apparently reduces power surge to ECU computer, not sure if necessary but I did it anyway. Now start your car; it may take a couple of days to settle down and some lights may remain on for that time, but don't worry as they will all reset themselves providing nothing else is wrong with your car.

Here is how you can contact them in Nottingham England, his name is Roger, his company email is ecu-testing.com

Hope I have helped, regards Rob.

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24th Sep 2009, 14:25

Hi.

I bought this used A160 Classic model 2000 Petrol with 53500 km on the clock from a private seller who said he'd not driven the car a lot since he bought it. After about 1500km, (55k), the driver side window malfunctioned after a loud noise inside the door. And recently, the power steering belt came off and so consequently the battery and water temp light too in the dashboard as the belt also runs the alternator and the water pump so no power steering and not driveable as the alternator is not working.

A local mechanic tried to fit the belt back on the pulleys but failed and then darkness prevailed.

Could anyone advise on the course of action to repair? Merc dealers in Oman are very expensive as the rest of the world. Have no idea why the belt came off. Don't want to be licked by the mechanic. Would appreciate if you could also reply to sheraz.chowdry@aircom.co.uk

Thanks.

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