I had leaking in the radiator as well and I went to the dealer and they sold me part exchange radiator for J130.
I had the radiator on my 300TE-24V blow at the top hose joint. Replaced the Radiator (£300) and the next week had the thermostat housing at the other end of the hose blow.
This has been replaced with a metal housing from an E320. I am on the look out for a more flexable top hose as apparently these 24V engines with Sport-line suspension are prone to blowing around the top hose due to the vibration and torque throwing the engine about? so I was told anyway.
Hi, I've just had to sort out a problem with my 2ltr E200, you'll find the best option is mine. As you say contacting the dealer only gives you a headache when they hit you with the price so I opted for a new core, this is were they strip down you radiator, replace the aluminium core with a copper and brass one (as this can be repaired at a later date if needed) all for £80 + VAT. Motorcool are in teesside and can be contacted on 01642 612642, the services is excellent.
I run a W124 E300-24v reg Feb '93, and source all parts I can from Euro Car Parts (www.eurocarparts.co.uk) including a new Behr radiator for £119 + VAT. I also buy febi bilstein coolant from them, which is the same coolant as Mercedes Benz use, and which costs me no more than any old antifreeze bought from elsewhere.
Hi I have a 300c3 24valve in Australia and know them like the back of my hand. Definitely do not recore the radiator in copper this is absolute madness as then you have three metals in your engine. Steel alloy and now copper which as most, but not all would know you end up with massive electrolysis and the engine will call it a day very soon.
Lorenzo From Australia.
Do not attempt to repair old radiators, they have a limited life span and should be replaced.
If you are not sure ask your mechanic how much it is to repair a overheated engine, especially an exotic one like the M103 24v.
There are after-market manufacturers of radiators, but do your research before buying a real cheap one that is made to a price and not a standard.
I recently replaced my 20+ year old Behr radiator with a unit made by Nissens. Here in Australia the Nissens are 40% cheaper than a Behr.
There are ways of saving money, but fixing old radiators is not one of them. Also re-coring is not advisable due to the plastic parts becoming brittle and any workshop that advises you to re-core an old plastic/metal radiator is best to be avoided.
The golden rule with Mercedes ownership is to find a good mechanic who loves these old cars as much as you will, he/she will advise you of what is best overall. Rather than taking advice off the net.
Another good idea is to join your local MB club and/or join a reputable on-line forum where dodgy advice is not tolerated.
Do a search for the Benzworld dot org forums on w124 Mercedes.
It's good place to learn about your car. Good luck.
Re the comment with the rough idling... does it only do it when the car hasn't been driven for a day or so? If so it may be a little plastic valve in the Bosch fuel injection system / they wear out and it starts to bleed air into the fuel system. Fairly cheap to replace. The mechanic needs to know the Bosch fuel injection system that's all.
I have a 1991 300ce 24v Sportline that had this problem. After a few days of not driving, the car would start up fine and drive for a few ks, then it would start to idle roughly and once stalled at traffic lights. I thought it was dirty fuel, but turned out to be that little plastic valve dying. Worth a shot, hope it helps. Craig.
Thank you Craig regarding the 300e rough idle after the car has not been used for a day or so, this is exactly the problem I have been experiencing with my 87 300e for the last 12 months, my mechanic kept telling me it must be dirt in the fuel distributor, I could not come to terms with this as it drives perfectly all the time except when it has been idle for a weekend, I shall be showing my mechanic your comments first thing on Monday.
Hi, looking at buying a 1992-93 w124 300ce 24v coupe, anyone got advice on what to look for?
Craig, I have the exact same problem on an M104 engined 300-CE-24 (cab). Can you (or someone) please be more specific when you say: "little plastic valve in the Bosch fuel injection system". From what I've read the fuel injection is called a KE-Jetronic (aka CIS-E and/or KE-III). This contains various sensors such as 'fuel pressure regulator' and 'air intake temperature sensor'. Are either of these the plastic value you mention?