1993 Mercury Cougar XR7 3.8L from North America


Enjoyed every moment of it


Head gasket replacement at 120,000km.

Wheel bearing replacement in the front several times.

Alternator with the air conditioner model seems to be underpowered and prone to burning out... replaced about 4 times in the life of the car.

Door hinges replaced after only 5 years on the passenger side and driver's side; however the door is heavy.

Radiator and water pump have only been replaced once.

Severe corrosion in the rear trunk shock tower area after 20 years.

Otherwise just typical replacement of brakes, brake lines, battery, spark plugs, filters, fluids etc.

General Comments:

Great car with great torque and amazing handling, especially around corners due to the low centre of gravity, and the wide footprint when you replace the tires with P215/65R15.

The car has had little or no major problems, with regular maintenance and rust protection treatment every 2nd year.

The main components such as transmission, engine (except for head gasket) and drivetrain have given me no problems. The transmission does sometimes slip once in a blue moon, but only when the car is cold.

After 22 years of ownership, the car still has these original parts: starter, brake booster, differential, universal joints, muffler system, major electrical components, heater core, dash parts.

Now some of the issues with the engine have to do with coolant leakage around the crank, so regular topping up is necessary. Very reliable and well built, and on a side note... The original battery lasted for 12 years. With a little care, and if the major components (engine and drivetrain) are built well, a car can last for a long time. Kudos to the engineers, designers and supplier chain at Ford.

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes

Review Date: 29th November, 2014

1993 Mercury Cougar LX 3.8L from North America


Don't buy American


Master cylinder blew at 100K.

Transmission blew at 115K.

General Comments:

Nice looking, good riding suspension.

Rear wheel drive sucked here in the snow belt.

Trans shot at 115K. Ran it to 121 K by putting fluid in approx every 50 miles till traded it in, glad to be rid of it.

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? No

Review Date: 31st January, 2011

1st Feb 2011, 16:55

Sounds typical of an older car with over 100k miles. If anything, that sounds better then can normally be expected of a car like this.

22nd Feb 2011, 00:22

Your right, but if I bought a Honda instead with 33000 miles on it, I'd still have the Honda up to 200K.

22nd Feb 2011, 14:51

1997 Cougar XR7 290,000 miles. Runs great!

Original owner, bought new in November 1996. 100% Michigan car. Routine maintenance, but nothing else. Original engine, original transmission. I do have a burnt out light bulb on my dash.

10th Aug 2011, 16:25

If mine were like that, I'd still have it.

1993 Mercury Cougar XR7 5.0 HO from North America


Wouldn't trade it for anything


New ball joints, struts, and front springs. The whole underneath was restored.

General Comments:

Love the car. The best I've had.

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes

Review Date: 23rd August, 2010

22nd Feb 2011, 00:24

You got OVER 900 THOUSAND miles out of this car???

26th Jun 2013, 21:09

Original owner of a 1993 Cougar XR7 - love it! The car has just over 150,000 original Km.

Other than the usual maintenance, I've had to replace spark plugs & rotor. My baby has the 5.0L V-8 HO under the hood.

Wonderful car in showroom shape!

1993 Mercury Cougar RX7 3.8L from North America


I really like this car and hate to get rid of it


Head gasket blew at 111,000.

Replaced thermostat at 111,000.

Replaced water pump 111,000, and then again at 140000.

New radiator at 115000.

Another radio from the junk yard at 80000.

General Comments:

This car handles very nice, and for the size has a lot of pep.

This car has power everything and rides real nice.

For four people, the room inside is perfect.

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes

Review Date: 26th July, 2009

1993 Mercury Cougar XR7 3.5 V6 from North America


Complete repair history from original owner: Despite the heads, she's still a great ride


History of problems:

Head gaskets blew (twice).

Front disc pads wear out prematurely.

Thermostat has been replaced 4 times.

Starter replaced (twice).

Catalytic converter (driver's side) rusted through at 85,000 miles.

Paint faded after 8 years.

Severe rust problem on both (driver and passenger side) kick panels.

Driver side passive restraint belt broke.

Chime on continuously with trouble light, indicating problem with seat belt.

Window motors have been replaced on both sides.

Evaporator problem (water coming into cabin) had factory fix.

Moonroof leaked (warranty fix).

Headlamp covers clouded.

General Comments:

I originally posted this as a comment on another review. However, I noticed, after reading several other comments, that there were many with questions related to repairs that might benefit from what experience I've gained as the original owner of this car. In several cases, there were 2nd or 3rd owners who had no reference as to problems that happened with previous owners of their car. Hopefully, the full history I've included here will help fill some of the gaps, and give you a heads up of what to look out for.

I've also provided a bit of detail regarding the head gasket issue, since I've seen quite a few who have had the same problem. In most cases, given the car's current book value, the cost of having the repair done will be more than the car is worth. However, it is not difficult to do the repair yourself, even if you are not an experienced mechanic.

I bought my 1993 Cougar XR-7 almost 16 years ago. As far as general mechanical function, the car has been solid. The ride is very nice and the interior, given the car's cost, is also very nice. My ride still gets me where I want to go. But, it hasn't been a journey without a few bumps in the road. Despite its age, most major parts are still original.

Starter (went out after 60,000 miles). Passive restraint on driver side no longer working (belt broke at approx. 80,000 miles). More trouble and expense to fix it than to just leave it in retracted position and flip harness over head. If bell chime and/or panel light drive won't shut off, you can disconnect the module, which is located behind glove box. You need to remove glove box to get to it. Takes about five minutes.

I'm surprised that there hasn't been mention of water collecting in the evaporator and spilling out near driver foot area. After driving my new car off the lot, I got less than 2 miles down the road before my foot got soaked with ice cold water making a right turn. I drove it immediately back to the dealership, where I was informed there was already a "Fix" that needed to be installed, so the factory already knew about the problem. Perhaps, they caught this before too many rolled off the line.

By no surprise, I have seen many blown head gaskets mentioned. I blew my first head gasket at 38,000 miles and about one month past warranty. Ford was KIND enough to split the cost, if the dealership did the job. It still cost me $800.00! Heads were milled, as well.

Head gaskets blew, again, at 88,000 miles! To make matters worse, by using a can of gasket sealer to attempt a temporary fix, the blown gasket allowed too much fluid in the cylinder and created a hydraulic lock, causing the piston to jam, and rod to pretzel. Warning, do not use head gasket sealer out of a can. There is only one way to truly fix this problem. Taking this shortcut only opens the door for more extensive damage and repairs. I found this out the hard way.

My car, at that point, sat in the driveway for over a year. With nothing to lose, and more time than money, a good friend decided to mentor me and helped me tear her down, replace the piston, head gaskets and freeze plugs (several were rusted clean through).

One thing I learned early on... If you notice that your engine temp does not heat up in normal time (also will experience engine wanting to hiccup or stall on acceleration) and that your heat gauge stays on cold seemingly forever, until it rapidly rises, then settles back... you are in line for a head gasket job.

There is always a chance that it could be a thermostat, water pump, low coolant level or radiator. These are all very easy to check. Replacing the thermostat is about a 10 minute job with the part costing $7.00 to $10.00. A new radiator cap might run around $6 to $8. However, after ruling these out, don't delay checking for the head gasket. You might have some doubt, at first, but when you have antifreeze in your oil or white, sweet smelling smoke coming from your tail pipe, you better hope you are close to home. Even if you get to this point, you still have a good chance to catch and fix the problem. At first sign, though, stop running the engine to avoid damage to the bearings.

Important note... once you experience the inevitable head gasket blowing, it is worth your while to check the fuel injector in the cylinder or cylinders that were affected or near the area where the gasket gave out. My injector was sticking (tell tale sign of carbon all over the spark plug electrode) from the contaminants that were back getting back on the pintle (tip of injector where fuel sprays out). Dealership will want $100.00 for new injector. Got one out of the auto boneyard for $6.00. Works fine!

For what it's worth, from a do it yourself standpoint, prior to this episode, I had only performed an oil change, wiper blade change, air filter (real basic stuff). If the head gasket is the only problem, the engine does not need to be removed, and doing the job is not that difficult. Quite frankly, the hardest part of the job was getting rusted bolts to come loose off of units that have to be removed to get to the heads. Once you get to the heads, it's pretty easy.

Once the heads are removed, you can have them reconditioned, or swap them for rebuilt ones. I paid about $250.00 to have mine reconditioned and milled, to eliminate any warpage. Also, check the mating surface on the engine block to see if there is any warpage or gouging. Gasket set and bolts cost around $150.00. Make sure you have detailed instructions for the procedure and sequence for installing the head bolts, because they are torque to yield bolts. I used a Haynes manual ($20.00 at local auto parts store), a torque wrench (can be purchased for as low as $12.00 to $20.00) and a pivot head 3/8 or 1/2" drive ratchet (this has become my favorite tool in the entire universe!). You'll need a cheater bar or breaker bar for rusted bolts. A can of Kroil, or other high concentrated lubricant, will help too when it comes to bolts that are rusted solid.

One HUGE piece of advice to a newbie (like me) trying to fix this yourself... have a video camera rolling while you start removing and disconnecting everything, making comments about what you are doing with some detail. Mark both ends of any connection with colored tape, paint, tape flags with numbers, whatever works for you. This way, when it comes time to reconnect everything, you will know what goes back together with what. Get close ups of the area you are working on. Digital camera pictures help too.

Unless you are an experienced mechanic, and know your way under the hood, you may run into some serious reconnection issues. That's when the video and pix become VERY helpful, especially when trying to figure out how to route wire harnesses through the fuel rail assembly, as well as, threading the coolant hoses back into place. When you have something to refer back to, it's a piece of cake.

Also, if you hear a sputtering coming from underneath, and you have ruled out a muffler or pipe leak, check the exhaust mounting flange brackets right where your cat. converter connects to your exhaust manifold. These have been known to rust apart.

If you hear sputtering from the cat. converter itself, you can remove just the section (unbolt at exhaust manifold and hacksaw pipe approx 1 foot behind the converter. The area you need to work on will drop down quite nicely, and you can take it wherever you need to work on it. By sawing the two weld areas (only 1" each) on the bottom side of the converter's heat shield, you can peel back the heat shield to expose the converter case. In my case, the outer shell of the converter was rusted through where the thin metal part tag had been spot welded onto the converter. The ID tag is about the size of a standard business card, and pulls off very easily if it doesn't fall off all by itself.

Now, with a thin metal sheet (or take it to any muffler or welding shop) weld in a patch. Swing the heat shield back to the closed position, weld back where you had to cut it in the first place.

Now all you have to do is reconnect the front part back to the exhaust manifold (two bolts), and reconnect with pipe behind the converter where you had to hacksaw. This can be done by taking it to a muffler shop, and for about $20.00 they'll weld it back together. You can also buy the muffler/pipe sealing tape (not recommended), or buy a 3" length of pipe with an inner diameter slightly larger than the outer diameter of your pipe. My pipe was 2" OD, so I got section of pipe 2 1/8" ID that slid over where I cut pipe. Add a couple of clamps and you are back in business.

There is a good chance that you will have a small exhaust leak unless you are able to get a real tight fit. Welding is the best way, although this is a good temporary fix to get you around until getting it welded.

Another little tendency of this car is that it EATS front disc pads. Save yourself some time and money on rotor replacement... just get yourself a set of lifetime pads and replace them every 12 to 14,000 miles. They are VERY easy to replace. Takes about 20 minutes to get them both done, once you know what you are doing.

I've also noted rust problems from other posts. Mine started on driver side kick panel, just in front of rear wheel well. Passenger side followed soon after. Apparently, these vehicles were known for this. Also, paint peels off on hood and trunk, curiously enough, in line with windshield fluid jets. Apparently, this was a problem, too. Over-spray from the wiper fluid jets, with a little help from the wind, would leave wiper fluid on paint finish and, over time, would eat right through it. Learning how to do bodywork is my next project.

While it may have started out as only a means of transportation, it now has turned out to be my first REAL experience in learning do it yourself car repair. It's actually been a fun experience and, perhaps, a blessing in disguise. I've saved a TON of money, not just on repairing this car, but also on my other vehicles, now that I can do more than just change wiper blades. This car is very easy to work on for many repairs, which makes it a great place to try your hand as a do-it-yourselfer.

Now she's back on the road, again, and purring like a kitten. I've always liked the performance of this engine. The mileage is decent and it has a surprising amount of pep, given the weight of the car. I've decided, much to my wife's dismay, that, as long as I can keep my ride running and looking good, I'm keeping it. I just had to remind her that we've only been married 15 years, and that my red chariot has seniority by one year.

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes

Review Date: 5th February, 2009

24th Apr 2011, 17:03

You're a glutton for punishment. I had way less problems with mine, & I cursed it out when trans blew at 115K.