22nd May 2008, 16:04
Hi, I have a 1984 4x4 king cab with only 2700 miles. How can I lower it as I find it a bit bouncy. Can anybody help?
9th Jun 2008, 14:04
This is for the guy wanting to lower his truck; go to your local Auto Zone/Advance Auto Parts and pick up a set of lowering blocks. They run around $25.00. That will bring the rear down about 3 inches.
To lower the front all you have to do is adjust the torsion rods (very simple). When you're at the parts store, pick up a Haynes repair manual for your truck, very helpful. It may just need new shocks.
P.S. I own the truck above your comment.
4th Jul 2008, 21:54
I have an 84 Datsun/Nissan 2 wheel drive PU and continue to have apparent fuel problems. Had 2 new fuel pumps, a lot of reading and researching, and it still runs for a while and then will only run if idling or if pump the gas like no pressure at all. Had tank out, new filter, and new lines, also. Come to find out that they are rumored to have fuel pump control module with unlisted inputs from oil pressure switch, front end crash shut off, clutch position input, and who knows what else. About to replace module. Any better ideas?
15th Aug 2008, 00:19
I have an 85 Nissan 720 4X4 king cab bought less than 6 months ago. Just had the carburator rebuilt from the nuts up. Paid a guy 500.00 to do it and he was hard to find.
Looking for a brush guard and can't seem to find one, even when looking at the Pathfinders. So I am gonna have something built. So does anyone know of any web site that shows others who have created brush guards or front end mods? I plan to post the hell out of mine once done, but was thinking to get it done easier by looking at one already finished.
I have also had the heads resurfaced, and the tires and rims replaced from a junk yard to the original rims with tires for 70.00 bucks.
I am looking for a good skid plate; found one but it didn't bolt up (guess some have an elbow plate to the frame then the skid plate, others don't).
Replaced window washer bottle (5.00), the engine drop light (5.00) the temp gauge (20.00) and the driver seat (25.00 then had one redone for 125.00). Took some searching with each, but in a couple days I get most parts. Thus not too hard to find.
Hope my info helps the casual looker. Hope to see a reply to my question.
11th Sep 2008, 13:09
This is to the guy from Aug 15, that has the 84' truck that has been finding all these cheap parts. Your post is right above mine.
I have an 83'. Everything runs real strong.
It has some rust, I had a new Weber Carb put on it, new clutch master, and clutch slave cylinder.
Now I am having to replace the ball joints and the brake master cylinder. I am also starting to get some rattling noise coming from the engine. It supposedly is the timing chain guides that need to be replaced.
Can you tell me where you have been getting your parts from?
I have been having a hard time finding parts.
My fuel gauge and temp gauge went out, so I might need a new dash. My email is firstname.lastname@example.org
Please email me with any helpful info.
15th Sep 2008, 18:03
I have recently purchased an 84 4X4 King Cab for $300. It has virtually no rust, only minor surface rust by the rocker panels and lower door.
I love the truck so far, but aftermarket suspension parts are very limited. Now I am currently looking into custom suspensions. Toyota axles maybe? Any help would be great. email@example.com.
8th Oct 2008, 22:07
I have an 85 4x4. It has become a toy truck. It seems I break something on it every time I take it out.
Parts are fairly easy to find at the dealerships or auto parts stores, and if I can't find anything, I use duct tape and bailing wire.
Even with everything that is rigged together, I will still put it up against any 4x4 of it's size in any mudhole or rock climb around.
17th Oct 2008, 23:23
I gotta 1984 Nissan 720, I also gotta 1976 Datsun 280ZX 2.8 turbo engine that's going into it. I think that this truck is gunna be a little snot rocket!!!
29th Dec 2008, 16:20
I read about the snot rocket with the 1976 280ZX engine going in it. I wasn't aware that Nissan made a 1976 280ZX, but I don't know everything. Is the 1976 the same as the 1978 280ZX?
20th Jan 2009, 19:18
I have an 84 720 Nissan King Cab, and it runs good for a short time, then stops and loses all power, is bogged down, then runs good again. Is my fuel system clogged or do I have some sort of sensor or com out?
19th May 2009, 19:08
I have a 1986 720. It's a silver 2 wheel drive. The transmission went sour on me. At first shifting became troublesome, then something was hanging up and it felt like it was in gear with the shifter in the neutral position. Finally, just the other day I lost overdrive and second gear began making rice crispie noises. The truck has some rust but it is truly a great piece. It runs great, got me to work everyday, and hauled all sort of loads. If there was some way to get another trans or fix the one I have it would be worth it. I was never in a vehicle that I felt as comfortable in as that truck.
25th May 2009, 08:47
I ran across a 84 Nissan 4x4 720 pickup for my grandson. The motor has a leaky head gasket, we will be going through the motor, but most of the smog components have been removed by the previous owner. is there any schematics out there that will show what parts are suppose to be on the system and how the vacum lines run? I bought a Chilton manual for this truck that was suppose to cover the 24Z motor, but not much info in it!
13th Oct 2009, 21:56
Just bought a 84 720 4x4 with the 2.4 motor. It has just a little over 82,000 miles on it. Man the motor runs great, my only problem with the truck is that the fuel gauge doesn't work. It doesn't work because the negative wire on the fuel tank rusted off. Other that it pulls trailers, and muds with no problems. The body is rusted, and the seats need work.
Overall it's a a great truck that is definitely fun at the beach here in Texas, and best of all I don't have to clean the inside. Not sure if I should keep it or sell it, since I got a F150 4x4.
2nd Dec 2009, 19:19
Just got an 1982 720 for $200! The best part is that it runs like new with only 160,000 miles. All it needed was a throw-out bearing to get it to move. It does smoke a bit, but it is just a valve seal.
As for parts, I have found that Autozone has most of the parts, but get ready to pay.
As for body parts like beds and fenders, I suggest to go to a local fiberglass place and get them to fabricate one. Again it will cost, but we also have 20 year old vehicles.
My bed is rusted out too and a friend of mine got a fiberglass bed for his 87 Chevy and that is twice the size of mine.