10th Aug 2001, 07:14
I've got the same on a 1992 Primera. Apparently is the link at the top of the suspension unit.
Brand new ones can knock too - some do, some don't apparently.
It's not an MOT fail here, just annoying at slow speed.
One thing I have to commend Nissan for is the brilliance of the engine with it's chain driven cams. It's so good they are still using it 10 years later!
15th May 2002, 13:35
I have just bought a '98 2.0 GX, and I noticed that there is considerable tyre noise and road noise from the front. apart from that, the Primera is a great car.
12th May 2003, 12:08
We have recently bought a Nissan Primera 1.6 precision, we straight away noticed a wobble on the car, as we knew it was in need of a new tyre we put it down to that, but now as the tyre has been replaced and we are still wobbling like a buckled wheel we are worried that the problem might be slightly more serious. There is no noise accompany this wobble, but has anyone got any ideas as to what the problem might be. Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks Pete.
5th Jul 2004, 15:50
I have just bought a 2001 (Y) 1.8 Nissan Primera S from an old-established local dealer. 36,000 miles, immaculate condition. Nice interior, good climate control, adequate power, not bad economy for a 1.8 petrol, good cornering on B roads. The only problem: sometimes it sounds as if I am towing a lawn mower. Healthy suspension sounds on rough roads, but worrying clonks on smooth surfaces for no apparent reason. This is delaying the usual familiarization process. I am always listening for noises. I have taken the car back to the dealer three times and he has offered to let me exchange it. I am still wondering whether I should take up this offer. The rest of his stock is not too exciting right now.
4th Mar 2009, 02:04
I have a 2 litre Primera here in South Africa, and I am really impressed with the car's handling and general drive-ability.
(It is a 2002 model, but we are behind the UK / Europe on that, think there it will be a 99 or so)
But, as with the common thread here, the knocking sound coming from my front left suspension on slow speeds going over potholes or speed bumps is causing worry. (Think roads in the UK are bad, try Africa) But after reading some of the posts, my mind is set at ease a bit.
(Thanks to the post of 30th Jan 2009, 13:21)
Question arises though:
1) Can the "free-play" on the top links cause the wheel alignment to be out?
2) I am fitting 2 new front tyres today, (as wear has been un-even on the 2 tyres I am replacing) and just wondering if I will have to have them re-alligned more regularly? Will the "free-play" be able to cause that?
Also, the knocking is progressively getting worse (maybe just in my mind), but I do drive some gravel (farm) roads now and again, which can probably make the free-play more exaggerated!?
But at what time do you replace the whole top link arm as suggested?
Thanks all, this has been extremely helpful.
22nd Aug 2009, 23:49
I have had both top and bottoms suspension links on the left side replaced twice in the last 18 months (that's four suspension arms) :( due to failing safety checks. But the right side is fine.
However this "play" does not affect tyre wear, since my tyres have passed for the last 3 years and still 3mm on each tyre. And the wear is still even (not wearing on the sides).
19th Sep 2009, 10:36
My Primera 1999 2L has this problem, but replacing the top arm and the drop link has not solved the problem. Otherwise it has been a good car.
13th Apr 2010, 15:47
The solution to the problems of front suspension (TOC-TOC). It is a forum in Spanish.
15th Sep 2010, 15:25
I have a Primera P11-144 from September 2000 with 75,000 miles.
I have recently replaced the nearside top suspension link/arm as this was increasingly knocking.
The part, off eBay, cost £25.
Despite not being mechanically inclined, I successfully fitted it myself after reading how on the NPOC (Nissan Primera Owners Club) website http://www.npoc.co.uk/.
Just register (no need to subscribe to read this information).
The part has to be fitted carefully, taking the weight of the car on the suspension before finally tightening the bolts. Otherwise the part will be damaged and the noise will return.
A week before doing the job, I recommend spraying WD40 on the nuts and bolts each day with the straw, which comes with the can. There are 6 each side, including the 2 captive nuts each side, which can just about be accessed under the bonnet. Strong leverage is required to remove the nuts and bolts, and I used a long extension.
I found it difficult to undo the bolt from the arm to bracket off the car (I trapped it under the axle stand to gain enough leverage). I also found it difficult to torque up the same bolt when back on the car due to a lack of clearance for my torque wrench or socket. I had to use a ring spanner and tighten it as much as I possibly could.
8th Mar 2012, 03:54
Check when the front of the car is jacked up, that the wheel has no play. Hold the wheel at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock, test for movement, and at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock. Any movement could be wheel bearing, track rod end or CV joint.
After that, hold a bar under the wheel, and test by lifting the wheel with the bar. If the wheel moves up and down, check the upper suspension arm has no movement. This is a common fault, which means renew the arm.