26th Sep 2007, 07:54
I'm looking at a used 1993 Nissan Sentra now, which is how I ended up in here looking at the comments. To the above poster the reason why your Prizm had the Toyota engine in it is because it was a re-badged Toyota Corolla Sprinter model. To the original poster good luck with your new car and sorry to hear about your Sentra experience. Personally I've had Good Luck (knocking on wood) with junkers or low cost cars and pretty much all I've driven for years. My latest was a 1986 Isuzu Trooper I've had for almost 6 years and paid $1,200 for. Before that was Mazda 323 $500 lasted 3 years, VW Jetta $250 2 years and the record holder was an Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Brougham I paid $135 at a farm auction that lasted just under 4 years. Nothing out of the ordinary was done, just good maintenance and keeping my ears and eyes open for problems to catch them early.
8th May 2008, 21:31
I picked up a 93 Sentra for 1000 dollars this Winter.
I was told it would take 961 dollars to get it through inspection.
The car had 124K on it.
I bought 158 dollars worth of parts and got it through inspection on 4 hours of work.
The clutch was/is loose; it slips between gears a lot, but engages fully still and I drive it easy until I can get that done. I replaced the starter recently because I did not like the way it hung on first morning startups. I got it before it got me.
I have put almost 10K on this car so far.
If I am not stuck bumper to bumper, I get 40 (That's RIGHT) MPG combined city highway at most, and 36 MPG at least.
The clutch will be replaced soon enough. The rear shock bellows too.
I named her Sarah and I do believe she will be good for 300K.
She appears to have been well tended and oh yes.. I shimmed the driver side door hinge for now and ordered up new hinge pins for 5 dollars each.
11th Feb 2009, 21:06
I would like to say that I am on my second Nissan Sentra. Other than these models not giving luxury rides, they are great cars.
My first one was a 1991,that I bought off of a friend for $100.00, about 5 years ago. It ran past 300,000 miles, with the only repairs being; CV joints, and the door hinges. This seems like a common problem with the Sentra.
I just bought a 1993, for $1300.00, with 123,000 miles on it. It's way more than the first price I paid, but well worth it. It needs a CV joint, and the driver door needs to be slammed. I bought this car specifically for the luck I had with the first one. It seems that Nissan gave faulty paintjobs, because the clear coat flakes off on these.
I would also like to mention, that the leaking trunks, and rear seat detaching from back panel, are also common problems. My first Sentra did the same. 1994, was last year for this body style. I would not purchase the egg shaped Sentra, that Nissan produced after 1994, because of negative press from owners.
I love my Sentra, and my son and I named her Suzie. Email me at firstname.lastname@example.org, if you have any questions regarding common Sentra problems. Good luck to all.
16th Feb 2009, 23:56
I have recently purchase a 93 Sentra 5spd manual, and so far it's been doing great, it starts on one click, it selects all the gears very smooth and clean.
My hinges did not go yet, but I think I could see what you guys are talking about, because they look kinda rusty, the clutch also feels pretty good, but may need changing soon because of age.
I bought the car for $700 from the second owner, who bought it in 95 with just 44000 miles on it. It seems like this guy has taken good care of this car.
These cars are very good cars; don't get it twisted, people just don't know how to take care of cars, don't matter what type of car you have, if you don't take care of it, it will fall apart in no time.
25th Apr 2009, 11:05
Surprised with some of the original comments. Nissan is actually one of the few makes that I've had very few problems.
Owned a Datsun/Nissan 280ZX - aside from the A/C not functioning (not a big deal since I live in rainy Washington), the car never needed anything other than wipers, tires and brakes. (All maintenance items anyways.)
I had a like '92 Sentra. Bought it from a co-worker for $500 that recently upgraded to a Z. He took great care of the car and it showed. Had all maintenance records in a manila folder along with the original window sticker, etc.) This car needed absolutely nothing while in my ownership. Aside from fixing a leak into the trunk (nothing that a little silicone sealant around the brake lights couldn't fix) - it was a strong running car. Officially this is the only simple production car I've owned that I tripled my money on. (Sold it 2 years later private party for $1500).
Now on to a 2000 Nissan Altima. Not the most modern looking car, but was built solid. Aside from needing a wheel bearing, this car has not needed a non-maintenance fix in 9 years. It's got 135,000 miles and runs like it has 35,000 miles.
I wouldn't judge a make by a simple lemon that is purchased. Some people maintain their car - some don't. Used cars that simply fall apart often show maintenance neglect, and isn't necessarily the auto-maker's fault for building a "lemon".
23rd May 2009, 20:46
Caveat Emptor. If you do not know how to work on or properly evaluate very old and worn cars, you should not buy them as you will be ripped off almost every time. It is all about details. My recent history: 84 Jetta bought for $700 with 220K and sold five years later for $500 with 280K. Normal maintenance. 91 Celica bought for $1600 over six years ago with 130K, still clicking at 208K. Normal maintenance. Latest find, a 93 Sentra with 228K for $250. Runs well and should last a few years at least. The Sentra is a good simple car that is easy to fix yourself.
24th Oct 2009, 14:05
I posted before here and here is my update:
The clutch was replaced @ 148K.
These cars have small 7" clutch disks and the drive axle builds reflect this. Both of my drive axles were replaced, as was the clutch cable.
Do not think me confused here. The clutch itself was replaced at 148K shortly after the cable was replaced.
The throw out or "release" bearings after 16 years; well the grease dried out and so it did not slide as easily on the input nose of the transmission, so more stress was put upon the cable than normal. Also one of the clips that holds the throw out bearing in place to its carriage broke, creating further alignment issues, so the cable finally went out after the new clutch was installed. It did not break, the bb on the pedal end came through the pull linkage there at the pedal.
Now we are talking a 16 year old car here, so age is as much a factor as mileage.
The alternator made it 154K. It didn't go out as such however; the charging voltage just got weaker and weaker until it was time.
The parts are pretty cheap actually, except for front wheel bearings (don't skimp there on parts, I did and had to get another a year later installed).
Clutch cables on the Internet probably will not fit. That clutch cable replacement is not for the faint of heart. Sounds easy, it's not.
Mine (car) was probably beat a bit by the second owner. The wheels can be spun easily coming off a stop. If the clutch slips revving out into 2nd you are driving it too hard.
Take care of it, it will take care of you.
I fully expect to see this little car to 300,000+ miles.
Use the 75-90 in the gear case, not 85-90, the difference in shifting is noticeably more pleasant.
And yes, if you have not replaced the oil in your manual 5 speed, then just do it. Don't ask why, just do it, you will be glad you did.
These cars (except the SR series) are not meant to be driven with hard shifting. Take it easy on them or else you will have premature drive axle and clutch failure. They go nice all around though. Let the clutch out as directly as you can, slipping a 7" clutch disk invites early replacement.
Mine should have gone 200K, but was done @ 148K, it's in, or out with as little in between as possible.
Rear springs are sagging a little @ 162K, and the rear strut bellows are shredded, they still work fine. Maybe I'll replace the bellows before winter.
Her name is Sarah.