3rd Jan 2011, 19:16

I have a 1999 Plymouth Breeze and it has run fine until now. All works fine except it will not start as of yesterday. It makes a clicking noise when I try to start it. I've waited for it to turn over and it wouldn't. I figure it's the alternator or a completely dead battery. When I jumped it to drive it home after it first happened it drove fine. The next day it wouldn't start again.

If anyone has the any information to help me please let me know.

Thank you.

11th Jan 2011, 15:34

My Plymouth Breeze 1999 was fine until this week, jerking at stop signs, engine light came on. Drove the next day and was fine, engine light turned itself off. Now at stops it wants to stall at stops, but not every time. Plus the speedometer doesn't work right while all this is going on. Could these problems be connected?

13th Apr 2011, 19:31

Let's see where do I start?

I bought a used 1999 Breeze and I have had nothing but problem after problem with this car. First the brakes and rotors which I could understand. Then the horn wouldn't stop blowing and I had to disconnect, which has left me without a horn. Then a very serious oil leak in the gaskets and also in the cam sensor. The passenger windows decide when they want to work, some of the locks do not work and one of the doors you have to open from the inside. The A/C does not work, nor the switch (will only work on high), the rear view mirror switch caught on fire in the door, the trunk switch broke...

I could go on and on needless to say I'm not happy!

28th May 2011, 01:24

I have a 1997 Breeze that I just got with the 2.0 engine, 213,000 on it. It runs smooth and shifts good. It doesn't have a lot of power, but it's great on gas.

Everything works, but I do have the oil leak problem; oil gets all over top of tranny, then runs down the front of the tranny and drips on the ground. I'm hoping it's the cam shaft sensor seal; it's the only thing on top of tranny that looks wet with oil, but it only sprays out while driving, and leaks for about 2 minutes after shutting the car off.

I have one bad wheel bearing, but it still runs and drives great, even with these problems. I don't know, I'm not overly happy with it. I'd take a Honda Accord over it any day, but it does the job and gets good gas mileage.

29th May 2011, 19:30

You're not crazy. I have a 1999 Breeze that does this exact same thing. No gauges, no A/C, no power locks, no wipers, no dash lights, no chimes if keys are left in or headlights left on.

Sometimes everything will suddenly come on while I'm driving. Other times everything will be working fine and I'll turn off the car only to have nothing work when I turn it back on 5 minutes later.

This of course can be a huge problem on those hot and rainy days, I've suddenly found myself stuck at gas stations a few times.

15th Jun 2011, 18:33

I have a 99 Plymouth Breeze, 2.4 L. When I bought it a few months ago, it only had 48,000 miles. Thought this was a good deal.

About 3 weeks ago at a stoplight, I felt the car jolt slightly and the CEL came on. Took it to Auto Zone, they said it was the shift solenoid. The next day, it would not upshift and stayed in first gear. Once I unhooked the battery and reset it, the car shifted normally. I figured out that it was the input speed sensor (it controls the shift solenoid - when to shift the car - stupid computer parts...) and changed it. It ran perfectly until this morning, when it refused to upshift again, and CEL came on. Unhooked the battery again, reset the computer, it works fine now. UGH. Anyone know what could be wrong? I'm just gonna have to be ghetto and unhook the battery every day before I drive.

16th Sep 2011, 17:17

I just fixed my climate control switch problem. The problem is with the blow motor resistor. There is a Youtube video that shows you where it is and how to replace it. Hope this helps.

29th Sep 2011, 22:10

Sounds like the timing belt's about to break. I have a 2000 that did the same thing. The belt broke, and luckily they don't bend valves when that happens, but you need to get it replaced. It's supposed to be changed every 145,000.

8th May 2012, 10:21

Replace the body control module located on the left side of the car under the dash. It's also part of your fuse box. You can find them at a salvage yard. I just replaced mine on my 99 Breeze; you will have a different mileage reading, but everything else stays the same.

15th Jun 2012, 18:07

Change out the coil pack.

12th Jul 2012, 20:47

Sounds like cam shaft sensor on the front of motor... a timing issue.

24th Jul 2012, 00:49

The TCM, which is the transmission control module, which is located on the front of the tranny, has two bolts and one pigtail attached to it. It's an easy part to change. I guarantee that's the problem. Had 3 cars do the same thing, all Breezes or Cirrus; same cars and parts.

14th Nov 2012, 00:56

You've probably figured out the problem with car by now, but seeing bubbles in the antifreeze is very very common, and I would not visit that mechanic again. Either your car is getting way too hot (probably bad thermostat or cooling fan not working properly) or there could be a head gasket leak, cracked head, or cracked block, most of which are caused by overheating.

14th Nov 2012, 01:04

To the guy who recommended replacing a water pump because the car is overheating. Water pumps have a solid steel axle connecting the pulley to the pump vane. They do not break. The bushings can go bad or the seal can go bad, but unless it's leaking, your water pump is fine and shouldn't be replaced. I've seen many, many amateurs waste money on water pumps that were not leaking. Most people don't know this, which is why shops always tell people their water pump is bad... it's easy money.

14th Nov 2012, 01:09

You said you've never had a problem with the car overheating... but recommend to let the fans run to make it stop boiling. If your car is boiling at all, there is a major overheating problem. Instead of waiting til the fans turn off and it stops boiling... keep it turned off and replace your thermostat. Might also want to test the cooling system with a radiator pressure tester. If there's a leak, it could be allowing exhaust to enter the coolant through a blown head gasket or cracked head. Both of which can be caused by your car boiling (overheating).

14th Nov 2012, 01:15

Window inspection? Confusing. However, the problem is typically either the switch or the window motor. It could either be the passenger switch or the drivers side switch, since they both control the pass window and are usually connected. There may be a relay for that window as well.

14th Nov 2012, 01:22

TCS. Transmission control solenoid. Every Chrysler should come with a couple spares, they all go bad and cause these problems. Junkyard has it for about $10-$20, Internet has it for $60-$90, and auto parts stores have new ones for $100-$150 with warranty.

26th Nov 2012, 22:46

Lemon!!! Worst car I ever owned... Run!!!

14th Dec 2012, 17:10

99 Plymouth Breeze, one plug hole stripped, re-threaded and put plug in. Now hear a loud hissing noise coming from the general area. What is going on?

11th Mar 2014, 08:10

you can either go to Advance or Autozone for the EGR valve. If you wish, go to eBay motors, parts accessories. There you will find the parts to be much cheaper if you are willing to wait a couple days for the parts to come in.

22nd Jul 2014, 20:05

I promise you that bubbling noise is air getting into your overflow; just replace your radiator cap. It cost me over 8 hundred dollars because the mechanic said it was everything else, but that they all are rip offs, and I figured this out myself...

19th Aug 2014, 19:11

Hi, I just fixed this problem. The BCM (Body Control Module) which is located under the dash on the left hand side. It is connected to your fuse box, but the BCM going out or having a bad connection will result in the gauges, lights, etc. not working.

19th Sep 2014, 18:49

Place a tire patch INSIDE the overflow cap so it's sealed and is pressurized. Next check the air cleaner inside and just above the throttle body; it's like a straw that someone put a lighter to, then pinched it shut so no air. Get a new radiator cap. Add Lucas Trans Slip and have a real shop reset it. It will need a day of driving for it to truly reset. Fuel compression ignition. And MECHANICAL. That's it. People, just be patient. Inspect every part in detail.