1987 Pontiac 6000 Reviews - Page 4 of 6

1987 Pontiac 6000 LE 3liter fuel injected from North America

Year of manufacture1987
First year of ownership1988
Most recent year of ownership2002
Engine and transmission 3liter fuel injected Automatic
Performance marks 10 / 10
Reliability marks 10 / 10
Running Costs (higher is cheaper) 5 / 10
Overall marks (average of all marks)
8.3 / 10
Distance when acquired11 miles
Most recent distance107745 miles

Summary:

Great economical car very dependable

Faults:

Well at about 50,000 miles the engine brackets almost snapped!

Then at 107,745 miles one of the pistons snapped.

Then we since had it sitting in the garage.

General Comments:

This car was good at fast take offs and handled curves real well.

The interior of the car was nice and roomy for that day and age.

The car was very reliable, but had a hard time making really sharp turns.

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes

Review Date: 14th November, 2002

1987 Pontiac 6000 2.8 MPFI from North America

Year of manufacture1987
First year of ownership2000
Most recent year of ownership2002
Engine and transmission 2.8 MPFI Automatic
Performance marks 9 / 10
Reliability marks 9 / 10
Comfort marks 9 / 10
Running Costs (higher is cheaper) 8 / 10
Overall marks (average of all marks)
8.8 / 10
Distance when acquired33312 kilometres
Most recent distance84121 kilometres

Summary:

Gonna be fast one day

Faults:

Antifreeze replaced 4 times.

Air filter changed twice before changing to K&N drop in filter (Currently in process of finding a cone filter to eliminate the factory air box).

New brake pads.

New battery twice.

New drive belt.

New plug wires.

Corrected acceleration stumble and surging with new throttle position sensor.

New spark plugs.

Front brake hoses replaced twice.

New exhaust pipe and muffler - cured engine cooling off - idling and in gear would drop to less than 60 degrees Celsius.

New thermostat.

New tires.

New water pump (re-manufactured)

Idle air valve replaced.

New Bosch Platinum plugs (idles down the street going 40km/h).

New front semi-metallic brake pads and new rotors.

Wheel alignment.

Front left steel wheel replaced.

Fuel pressure regulator replaced (would get up to 60km/h where the torque converter locks up and it would unlock and lock like crazy)

New rack and pinion (still groans when at its stops though)

New mass air flow sensor.

Oil dipstick broke.

Starter overhauled (new brushes and shift fork) starter was never touched before and there was still a lot of brushes left, but we replaced them and the shift fork the little pins on the end were eaten about halfway through.

Currently have 2 problems.

1 is once in a while I will lose a cylinder and still can't find the culprit.

2 is when the car is hot and in gear when at a stop engine oil light comes on.

General Comments:

I love this car.

Today I took off the hose from the valve cover to the throttle body and put a PCV valve in the valve cover and blocked off the hole on the throttle body hose. This summer I am picking up a K&N RC-3250 air filter. This is a cone and I will be taking out the stock restrictive air box.

I want to find a set of the 15X6inch 3 spoke rims off a 6000 or Lumina van or 16X6 or 16X7inch 3 star rims off a Bonnevile or Lumina van.

I want to find a decent donor car and take off the rear disc brakes off and convert mine to a 4 wheel disc car.

I would like to lower the car about an inch or two and to have a stiffer spring rate.

Getting the windows tinted next summer.

When I graduate from University I want to put a shot of nitrous on it with a complete rebuild with all the strongest parts.

Well I would like comments on this because this car is a sleeper in the processes.

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes

Review Date: 12th June, 2002

23rd Oct 2005, 00:56

For your oil light being on, check your idel speed it may be too low.

23rd Oct 2005, 00:58

For your oil light being on, check your idel speed it may be too low. Also check that your trans lock-up is working properly.

1st Nov 2005, 21:16

The problem with loosing a cylinder sometimes is most likely the ignition module. I had that happen a few times with mine it would just loose one or two and then one time the whole thing just quit. no one had ever heard of such a thing.

2nd Feb 2009, 10:49

Yeah check your lockup torque converter, as I have the same car, and my lockup torque converter locks and doesn't unlock when you go over 60km/h. So it stalls. At first you would start it back up and put it in gear and it would be fine, and only happened occasionally. Now, it is a lot worse, and when it locks up and doesn't unlock, you now have to wait for 30 minutes before it unlocks. when it is locked, you can start it up, but when you put it in gear it stalls. I temporarily fixed this problem by unplugging the little blue plug on the transaxle, which takes the power away from the lock up, so its just like not having that "fourth gear". Its better than having it stall on you. Apparently it can be either one of two switches, which they can determine once they get the transaxle open. Either way, you are most likely going to be looking at about a four hundred dollar repair bill.

Average review marks: 7.7 / 10, based on 21 reviews