2nd Nov 2007, 13:54

Wow, how I can relate. I have owned a 2000 Grand Am GT with 73k miles since July 2007. Great looking car, but that's about it.

Two days after owing it the Service Engine light came on... turns out the gas cap needs to be securely tightened.. had it reset and a week later the lights on again for who knows what now.

Since July I've had to have it re-aligned, new tires on the front (it wore them down to nothing!), I smell the ever pleasant COOLANT odor every now and then, but of course in all the times my husband and mechanics have checked they can't pinpoint any real leaks.

I drive 60 miles on the highway every day back and forth to work, and I have noticed that it doesn't seem to have the "get up and go" that it used to. We've changed plugs, wires, fluids, yet to no avail.

NOW, I've got this "grinding" noise... BRAKES... AND I've got this nice problem where it decides when and where it wants to start. After driving it 30+ miles home the other night, I pulled into the daycare come out and nothing. My husband check the fuel tank, pump, sending unit, starter, you name... a mechanic friend of our said to check the Relay switch. Have any of you experienced anything like this?

12th Nov 2007, 14:04

I've had so many of the problems everyone else has had. As far as the "get up and go" problem, I heard it's a big deal to keep the air filter changed every so often in these Grand Ams.

26th Nov 2007, 01:48

My wife and I have owned a '99 Grand Am GT for almost four years now and have had very few problems. Within the last week the power steering pump has started to whine, no big deal, the hose that is leaking is $15 and a bit of labor. Also, the plastic clip on the driver's side window broke, $30 for the part, a few bucks for epoxy=fixed. And the brake thing; being a used car, I had to replace the brake pads...once. Six months after I bought it, the brakes started to squeal. That means change your pads. $20 fix.

On, now, to the ABS/Trac off light. It states VERY clearly what to do in your manual, turn the car off for thirty seconds, ALL THE WAY OFF! No listening to the radio, whatever, turn it off. Wait 30 seconds, restart. FIXED!!!

Almost forgot, the week that we bought it the car started revving up and then dying at random. $25 for a throttle position sensor fixed that. It took 30 seconds to replace, no big deal.

26th Nov 2007, 12:49

I have to comment to your suggestion regarding the ABS, Traction, and Service Vehicle lights coming on...yeah, I don't think turning it off helps.

I have tried that and it happens again and again - brought it in and had to have the other hub, bearing, and harness repaired (already had the other side done). I spent over $400 and then just the other day, got stuck in some ice (due to crappy Falken tires), and they went off again. I pulled over, turned off the car and they came on again. I have another appointment and I bet you there will be something else wrong because this car ALWAYS has something wrong with it...

12th Dec 2007, 10:13

I can relate to most of the issues I have read.

My 2000 Grand Am overheats at idle, too. The track light used to come on, but it stopped by itself. The engine light comes on when it wants to.

The antifreeze leak was something really simple to find, and you will kick yourself if it's your problem too; there is a piece called "water neck" or some other term that is on the drivers side of the engine. It's a plastic piece that connects to the antifreeze hose, and the piece leaked tiny bits of antifreeze. I had mine replaced weeks ago and I haven't had a problem since. The piece cost less than $40 and will solve the mystery antifreeze leak (e-mail me at the address below for more help).

I had a problem with the car missing (misfire) too, and that was a $16 "boot set" that covers the spark plugs.

The window doesn't pose a real threat, especially since I have manual windows (thank goodness).

I thought the security light was real, but turns out it's a fake out.

I didn't think the car had a chip in the key; I went to Home Depot and purchased a regular key and the junk started (go figure).

Brakes; not yet.

I do get a fade when I'm trying to speed up, like there is no gas or power.

No codes come up for the engine light, but "low efficiency"; I don't know why, as it looks like a new muffler is on the car.

A mechanic told me to not let the car nickle and dime me, but to save up and leave it alone. I came to grips that I got a bad deal, because the onset of these problems happened the same day I got it. A lemon law wouldn't help.

The car has 185,000 miles on it. I'm sure the previous owner did a lot more work to get it that far.

Miraculously the car went through inspection, and after it did, the engine light came back on.

The car is American and I was told not to expect much from it, because they are made to generate money; when they are made and when they are bought. These factories care less about the consumer who just wants a fair deal, and to not worry about being stranded, or their family being hurt, from the set back the car is designed to allow.

I think we should join other sites and defuse these defaults, and get some results for our money. I will do as much work as I can to help get these complaints to the manufacturer, but I can't do it alone.

We have been wronged in the consumer field and I think we should stand up and do something about it. I just made a new yahoo ID just for this purpose. Please go to pontiacdefaults@yahoo.com and submit your complaints. Please do not send personal information; I will e-mail you back as soon as I can to give you the right information to contact the manufacturer for that.

The reason for the e-mail address, and the back up data of the recalls is because the manufacturers will ignore us, or say they don't have enough complaints on the issue at hand to recall it. I want us to get a fair shot at justice, and we will go straight to the press and media for others to know what they are buying into. It may be too late for the law to protect us, but I think it's worth a try.



12th Dec 2007, 11:30

Your grinding noise when turning is either your brakes or your wheel bearing... my wheel bearing went out last year and was making a noise that sounded as if my brakes were sticking... I would get it checked out.. of course, both are issues with these cars... I fortunately have not had huge brake issues besides having to replace them every year...