9th Jan 2008, 01:01
Well, I own a '96 Grand-Am GT, at 136k miles Quite frankly, I love my car. It's run great for most of the time I've owned it. I had the intake gasket replaced, no big deal, I know the person that owned it before me and they weren't exactly the easiest on it. My window motors are going I no longer have AC, and It's currently in the shop with a coolant issue. It would overheat very rapidly and blow coolant all over the ground, I checked hoses myself and they all appeared to be alright, so now I worry that my head gasket went, despite the dealer checking it out less than 6 months ago and saying it was in good shape when the repaired my intake. I figure any car that's got 136 thousand miles on it, with almost all of them braking miles will have a few issues, especially since it's a Grand-Am.
12th Jan 2008, 17:38
I own a 2003 Grand Am GT. When I bought it, it had 20k miles. Now with only 71k miles it won't start. The motor turns over, but never tries starting. I was sitting in a parking lot when it decided to die. Had to have it towed back home. I thought it was just the fuel pump fuse or clogged filter. After changing them it still won't start. Guess I have to replace the fuel pump.
Besides it not starting, I've have a few other problems. When I have to stop fast the brake pedal goes to the floor and the brakes grind like there's no fluid pressure. It doesn't stop unless you let the pedal up and press it again. I've replace the rotors, pads, calipers, hoses, and fluid, but still haven't been able to fix it.
Oh yea, my bright light switch doesn't work. When you pull the bright switch back it brightens, but dims as soon as you let go. Can't fix that either.
I'm trading this car off as soon as I get the fuel pump working. I advise all Grand Am owners to do the same.
13th Jan 2008, 09:16
Most likely your car isn't starting due to the well known pass-lock issue. Leave the key in your car in the "on" position for 10 minutes. After that it should start up.
As for your brights not staying on: you have to push the switch forward in order for them to stay on, when pulling the switch back it is only a momentary contact so you could flash your lights at someone.
I've had my 2004 since new and have only done regular maintenance. I've never had an issue. Good luck.
19th Jan 2008, 06:43
I am dealing with 2000 Grand Am issues, as everyone else. (currently the $%##*& intake manifold leaking coolant). One comment I wanted to make about the driver's side window. Mine stuck in the "up" position. I initially thought it was a bad master switch. I removed the motor, and when I did it released pressure on the window which then allowed it to work fine. It's as if whatever tells the window that it's up and to shut off, didn't do it soon enough. Not sure if that all makes sense, but regardless, don't go buying a new switch or motor before you check that out. It's worked fine since. (knock on wood).
28th Jan 2008, 23:06
About a month ago I recently brought a 2002 Pontiac Grand Am GT. It is super sharp and everything I always wanted. I've only owned this car for 3 months and my problems are already starting to begin. First of all on Christmas eve I drove it down to the store, and was trying to get into a parking space. I couldn't fit so I cut my wheel and put it in reverse and it popped and started smoking, I didn't know what to think. So we pushed out of the way and then seen power steering fluid. So I figured it was the pump or a hose. Little did I know I had to replace the whole Rack inpinon which all together was about $497. So people whose had the steering problem, you might want to check into that. Then I got the Trac off-Service Vehicle Soon-ABS lights on and well we still haven't figured that one out yet. I've also got the annoying turn signal clicking, even though the turn signal isn't on. And now the Security light and the car not starting has come up on us. I've got key-less remote and I thought I would never have that problem, but I got fooled... I love my car, but I hate the problems that come with it, My 1999 Malibu was a money scam as well and I loved that car, but it seemed like every time I got paid a new car problem occurred and it seems to be doing the same with my grand am. I really wouldn't trade it for nothing I just wish I wasn't putting money into it every week besides gas.. :)
If anyone has any advice, please let me know!!! Thank you for the advice on the *Security Light*
31st Jan 2008, 23:06
2000 Grand Am 6 cyl.
I had a problem with the lock cylinder when we got the car. You had to "wiggle" the key to get it to turn over. Went on like this for about a year, then suddenly it wouldn't turn over at all, no matter what. It was just like the wrong key was in it. Couldn't replace the cylinder only because the key has to turn to get the cylinder out, so we hot a new lock cylinder and ignition switch. Almost exactly at the expiration of the warranty, the lock cylinder has stopped working, only no warning at all this time... Any similar experiences???
14th Feb 2008, 10:34
I have similar problems with my 2000 grandam se regarding the driver and passenger side windows and the ac runs only on no 3. Can somebody please give me some tips to get them fixed at a lesser cost. The repair guys are asking $260 for changing the motor for one window.
Thanks in advance.
17th Feb 2008, 10:22
260 isn't that bad of a price. Is it the regulator or the motor. If it's the regulator that's more costly than the motor. I bought my 2000 Grand Am SE less than a week ago and I have replaced the regulator in the driver side door and now I have an oil leak.
19th Feb 2008, 10:56
Actually, $260 is not a bad price for replacing the window motor, considering that Honda wanted $1100 to do it in my friend's Honda. It really isn't that hard a job, however, and Auto Zone can probably get the parts for you and advise you on how to remove the old motor. They are very helpful and don't charge for their advice.
I've saved thousands of dollars doing all my own maintenance over the years. A good example is replacing my timing belt on one of my 2.3 litre Fords. A shop wanted $400. The belt cost about $10. That's a savings of $390!! Of course, I'm a mechanic, but most things can be mastered with the help of a good repair manual or expert advice. Try it. You'll save TONS.