Comments: 1-15, 16-30, 31-45, 46-60, 61-75, 76-90, 91-105, 106-120, 121-135, 136-150, 151-165, 166-180, 181-195, 196-210, 211-225, 226-240, 241-255, 256-270, 271-285, 286-300, 301-315, 316-330, 331-345, 346-360, 361-375, 376-390, 391-405, 406-420, 421-435, 436-444
*** Not a serious suggestion ***
To fix the Renault problem;
1) Locate the bonnet pull.
2) Pull the bonnet pull.
3) Lift the bonnet.
4) Secure the bonnet in the upright position.
5) Locate the wiring loom and lambda sensor.
6) Locate a container with petroleum contained within.
7) Splash the said petroleum over the entire engine.
8) Get some phosphorus sesquisulfide on a small stick.
9) Ask a friend to ignite the phosphorus sesquisulfide stick.
10) Ask the said friend to introduce the phosphorus sesquisulfide stick to the petroleum sodden engine.
11) Wait for the wooofing sound and watch the said friend loose his/her eyebrows.
12) Stand back and wait 29 minutes.
13) Phone for help.
14) Don't buy another Renault.
Hi everyone.
I'm experiencing the same orange engine coil warning light as everyone else here seems to be... luckily I have a very friendly local 'Renault specialist' mechanic seeing my car tomorrow, and I shall attend armed with a list of possible resolutions taken from the comments here.
I contacted Renault UK Customer Service and spoke to two of the rudest people I've encountered in a long time, who basically said that it was a "serviceable issue" and was *my* fault. I explained about the recurring issues everyone else has described, to which they said "prove it's the same fault. Unless you pay us £80 to look at your car, it could be anything".
I will be writing immediately to the CEO of Renault UK to complain, and might I suggest that everyone else experiencing problems does the same. It may be a fool's errand, but there's a small chance that this may force Renault to sort out their poor customer experience.
Write to:
Roland Bouchara
CEO Renault UK
The Rivers Office Park
Denham Way
Maple Cross
Rickmansworth
WD3 9YS.
Tell him what you think!
I have a Renault Clio 04 plate which has done 35,000 miles. Have had similar problems since buying this car 2 years ago. Warning lights come on, on the dashboard usually electrics and toxic fumes. Then the car judders/loses power and finally cuts out entirely. It has been back to the Renault garage about 5 times. They assured me the problem was solved last November 2007 when I paid £440 to have the throttle body replaced... Problems started happening again last night even worse than before and it cut out 4 times this morning (after losing power etc) on a 1 mile journey to the garage. It is really really dangerous and has put me off Renault cars completely, which is a shame as an earlier model clio I owned was excellent and prompted me to buy my current nightmare clio...
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Write to watchdog, look on 2008 models. They might make them do a recall; why should you put up with this?
Well, I am so glad I found this site - I am having the same problem with my Clio 1.2 16v Dynamique Extreme 51 reg 57k miles on clock - I have been for the past 18 months!!! (orange coil light, idle 'limp' mode etc)
I couldn't believe that there are approx 300 other people with the same problem. This is a disgrace!
My husband was towed to Renault this morning as the car cut-out last night, and as the service department don't open on a Saturday (or at least they are only open a couple of hours - something else that does not support their much valued 'customer service', as we both have full time jobs in the week and are quite dependant on our cars) we will have to wait until Monday to speak to the service team.
We have had the throttle body, the wiring loom, accelerator sensor all replaced and various other 'repairs' all in the last 12 months with genuine Renault parts, but still no joy... surprise surprise!
Last week the car was in the garage (Renault dealer) and they said (not knowing we had already had the wiring loom replaced) that the wiring loom needed to be changed costing approx £300 - we gave them their inventory ref on which we had had this part previously replaced and they came back and said it was actually a loose connection... the cheek, I wonder would they have still taken £300 off us if we did not say that the loom had already been changed at that same garage?!
I really want to get rid of this car, but will not sell privately as don't want anyone else to have to suffer this inconvenience and complete waste of money, as it is obvious that Renault have not got a clue. I'm sorry to have gone on and that I have no answer to this but am telling everyone I know... NEVER BUY A RENAULT...EVER!!!
Thank you to all who have posted on this site and made me realise that when Renault tell me that they haven't experienced this compliant before that I am not going mad. I will of course let you know if anything comes of Monday's discussion with Renault, but as I am sure all of you are thinking it will be a complete waste of time. Also if you get chance post a message on the BBC Watchdog site (the bonnet issue a couple of years back, did actually make the programme and they recalled all effected models) you never know if we were all to complain we might be heard!
Thanks for reading all of my moaning but I wanted to tell all as I am so angry!
Good Luck!!
X.
Guess what problems Im having with my Clio... Yep the orange coil light coming on and it either stalls or cuts out and won't do more than 5 miles an hour. I removed the black box at the back of the engine and yup the wires have been badly worn. My boyf is quite a handy mechanic so is going to do a quick repair.
I am petrified of driving it on the motorway now so... I am off hunting for a new car and having gto borrow the money to replace it.
I am soooo glad I found all these comments before I started paying out on it.
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I have a Renault Clio 1.2 16 valves which I bought in 2001 (51 reg). In the first year the steering rod broke. In the third year the bonnet flew up and smashed the window. I've had engine management problems - the car refused to start on several occasions until we completely replaced the engine management system. The roof rattles constantly when driving and now the latest thing to occur - well not latest as this has been happening for three years is that there is an intermittent fault when the electronic fault light appears and the car's engine when under 2000 revs cuts off.
I have not sold this car as I don't want someone else to have problems with this car. I've contacted Renault about all the issues but they have not done anything.
I think the only place for this car is the scrap heap and people should never buy a renault.
I have had most of the problems stated on this site (engine management light/ coil light / airbag light etc..) the main one was my clio losing power and stuttering in limp mode while driving, along with a strong smell of fuel during this. after changing the coil pack and having my manifold cleaned it was still doing it so I took it back to the friendly diagnostics man who checked it again for free and finally found out that the lambda sensor (a spark plug looking thing with a thick wire which inserts into your exhaust) was totally done for, so after changing that my car has never run better!! if this sensor is broke it will tell the engine that there is not enough fuel going into the engine therefor flooding it and causing it to lose power, also damaging the catalytic converter (expensive) hope this helps.
I have a 51 reg Clio. I bought it in 05 with a full service history, since then it has had a broken immobilizer, broken starter motor, broken water pump, brake shoes seized up, new spark plugs, new sensors and I'm sure there are a few more things that I have forgotten about.
The main problem is the various electrical faults, I had a fault for about two years where the car would go into limp mode on a regular basis. Renault kept charging me for various parts and assuring me it was fixed. Their customer service was very very poor and the staff were rude. I got sick of paying for nothing so I left it alone, and after about a year the problem went away.
I'm having different problems now. I had to get a towed by Greenflag to the garage (not a Tenault dealer) to be told that it started fine and there wasn't a problem. Two weeks later the engine fault light has come on even though the car has been running absolutely fine. I don't know anyone else who gets towed as much as I do, my breakdown cover is extortionate!
I thought I was just unlucky, but reading the other comments, I won't ever buy another one.
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Since finding this 'cure' I have now fixed (for now!) 16 Clio's all with relay corrosion, check yours as it is the cheapest option other than a litre of petrol and a box of matches!
If it cures yours, please post so others can at least check theirs.
"Possible cure for your Renault.
Hope this may be of some help to those of you at your wits end! Open your bonnet and on the right hand side next to the battery is a plastic fuse box cover, remove this and just behind the headlight you should find three little black relays in a line, remove one at a time and look for any white/green corrosion, if found change all three (£14.75 each!) this completely cured a 1.2 16v Clio Dynamic which has the same faults as described on here, cutting out, non start, and rough running, simple to check and may save you hundreds of pounds as this will not show up on a diagnostics check. hope this helps some of you out. good luck"
Can't believe there's an advertisement for new and used Clios!
Same as a lot of people. Wasn't starting. It was sorted as a sensor problem. Now while driving, when it's cold, the auto light comes on and it goes into limp gear. It's going in tomorrow for a shave and haircut. I've only owned it 3 weeks!
I have decided to compile a list of the suggested fixes in order to assist those (like myself) who had to wade through 330 odd posts to get some practical information. I wish to thank all those who offered constructive comments and advice, and not a re-hashed rundown of a problem outlined 100 times previously.
Firstly I will list the specific problems I encounter. I'm assuming that these problems are common throughout the whole Clio model range, but my model specifically is:
2003 Renault Clio SPORT.
----------------------------
MY PROBLEMS
----------------------------
1) At idle, engine would rev erratically. Anywhere from 1000rpm to 3000rpm is common. This problem seemed to sort itself out at any given time, unfortunately this problem is IMMEDIATELY followed by the problem listed below.
2) Electrical Fault warning light on the dash (Little box with 'squiggly' lines).
When this light is activated I cannot rev the engine past 3000rpm. Stopping the engine and re-starting would randomly solve the problem for hours/days/weeks but the problem would always return.
3) Same as problem 2 listed above EXCEPT there is no throttle response from the accelerator pedal. Engine is still running but cannot rev the engine at all. Re-starting the engine would usually sort this problem out temporarily.
----------------------------
POSSIBLE FAULTY COMPONENTS:
----------------------------
Lambda sensor
Idle Control Valve (ICV)
Coils
TDC sensor
Chaffed wiring
Bad earth
Relay corrosion
Wiring “resistences”
Faulty ECU
----------------------------
SUBMITTED SOLUTIONS (thanks to all again)
----------------------------
The culprit will probably be the Idle Control Valve (ICV) which is located on the top of the inlet manifold. The ICV acts as a gate allowing varying amounts of air into the engine. However they are known to stick. Then they either let too much air into the engine, possibly causing high revs, or not enough starving it of air and causing the engine to almost or actually cut out.
----------------------------
I just want too add that I have a Clio Y Reg 1.2 16V Sport, which DID HAVE the all so common electrical fault, which resulted in loss of power and caused the engine to cut out etc. It is all down to the little Tamper Proof Box, which you can see at the back of the engine when you look under the bonnet. The box rattles and wears away at the all important ECU wires it is supposed to protect, which causes the "orange coil light to appear on the dashboard" and the engine to start cutting out and loosing power. All I did with my Clio was place a piece of plastic between the wires and secured the box with zip ties to stop the rattling, I did this in Jan 08 and I have not had a problem with it cutting out etc since! Hope this helps everyone and ends the frustration I went through with my Clio.
----------------------------
Read on for how I fixed the dreaded orange light curse!!!
I have Clio y reg 2001. I have had all these problems as well the orange light then cutting out at lights, roundabouts etc. I also had problems starting hot or cold anytime of the day. I can now say completely FIXED. My hubby is a top mechanic; he has replaced the engine earth. New earth lead bolted through the starter motor directly to the battery. Topped up level in battery, and fitted new lambda sensor underneath (15 pound local scrap yard!!!)
The lambda sensor on my car has been dodgy all along, so not too sure if this actually made a difference, but I have no problem at all with my car. It has been over a fortnight and no light. Started every time everyday. Before you spend any more money replacing expensive things please try this. Good luck.
----------------------------
I have fixed three 1, 2 Clios, by working systematically through the harness with a high accuracy resistance meter, this is a painstaking process, but as I have learned, just because you find "a fault" that does not mean you stop there.
It seems that each car is slightly different, but there will be a number of high resistances, giving rise to failed signals to the ECU.
I'm hoping to build up a databases of resistances to speed up the process．At present it takes between 4 and 8 hours to complete.
The diagnostic machines rely on the wiring being good, hence all the false failed component codes from dealers.
Similarly disturbing the harness when fitting a component or undertaking work can give a temporary reprieve, seeming like the replacement part/work was the fix.
I do not doubt that the mechanical fixes are needed as well, however the underlying problem of high resistance has made this circuit drop close to its lower thresholds in the first place, so making that element less fault tolerant.
I can guarantee to date this approach works. If you are interested in contacting me to discuss further, please mail me on dgsutton2000@yahoo.co.uk
----------------------------
I have a 52 plate Renault Clio Dynamique (54,000 miles) 16v (bought 4 weeks ago) and pretty much as soon as I'd purchased it the fumes light was on (seen in pic a http://www.craigperks.net/pic_a.jpg), which if I over revved the car (3000rpm +) would cause the engine management light to come on and the car to go into 'limp... get me home... mode'.
For the first 2 weeks, I had no idea what the hell was causing this, but I took it up to my friends house, he opened the air intake valve and we gave it a quick spray. Lo and behold, the fumes light went off and it was okay for a couple of days. It did come back, which really pee'd me off, but again, I took it to my friends and gave it a more aggressive spray (actually managing to choke the engine into stalling) and it was fine for 2 weeks.
It's since done it again and I've been to halfords and bought my own spray (http://www.craigperks.net/pic_b.jpg) and I've gotten into the habit of giving it a spray every weekend... so far all seems fine.
I know nothing about cars so don't treat this as gospel, but this solution might not help you guys rather than shelling out loads of cash it's worth a try to check this first. Basically, you have to unscrew the two nuts on your air intake valve, crack it open (with the engine on) and spray the air intake (while revving seems to do it better).
My friend said the problem probably lies with the 'lambda??' sensor inside the air intake, which is giving the engine false readings because it's clogged up, so it could prob do with replacing, but I'm gonna keep this up for a few weeks and see where I am then.
Like I say, give it a try, it may work..
----------------------------
Hope this may be of some help to those of you at your wits end! Open your bonnet and on the right hand side next to the battery is a plastic fuse box cover. Remove this and just behind the headlight you should find three little black relays in a line. Remove one at a time and look for any white/green corrosion, if found change all three (£14.75 each!). This completely cured a 1.2 16v Clio Dynamic, which has the same faults as described on here, cutting out, non start, and rough running. Simple to check and may save you hundreds of pounds, as this will not show up on a diagnostics check. Hope this helps some of you out. Good luck
----------------------------
I have had most of the problems stated on this site (engine management light/ coil light / airbag light etc..). The main one was my Clio losing power and stuttering in limp mode while driving, along with a strong smell of fuel during this. After changing the coil pack and having my manifold cleaned, it was still doing it, so I took it back to the friendly diagnostics man who checked it again for free and finally found out that the lambda sensor (a spark plug looking thing with a thick wire which inserts into your exhaust) was totally done for, so after changing that my car has never run better!! If this sensor is broke it will tell the engine that there is not enough fuel going into the engine, therefore flooding it and causing it to lose power, also damaging the catalytic converter (expensive) hope this helps.
----------------------------
Since finding this 'cure' I have now fixed (for now!) 16 Clio's all with relay corrosion, check yours as it is the cheapest option other than a litre of petrol and a box of matches!
If it cures yours, please post so others can at least check theirs.
"Possible cure for your Renault.
Hope this may be of some help to those of you at your wits end! Open your bonnet and on the right hand side next to the battery is a plastic fuse box cover, remove this and just behind the headlight you should find three little black relays in a line, remove one at a time and look for any white/green corrosion, if found change all three (£14.75 each!) this completely cured a 1.2 16v Clio Dynamic which has the same faults as described on here, cutting out, non start, and rough running, simple to check and may save you hundreds of pounds as this will not show up on a diagnostics check. hope this helps some of you out. good luck"
----------------------------
FINALLY
----------------------------
Hoping for a simple easily-fixed solution, I checked the three black relays in the engine fuse box as suggested. Sadly all relays are in perfect order, my problem appears to lie elsewhere.
I am having my car looked at tomorrow and will hopefully have my issue sorted.
I will ensure to return here and let you all know how I go.
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QUOTE -
20th Sep 2008, 06:07.
Since finding this 'cure' I have now fixed (for now!) 16 Clio's all with relay corrosion, check yours as it is the cheapest option other than a litre of petrol and a box of matches!
If it cures yours, please post so others can at least check theirs.
"Possible cure for your Renault.
Hope this may be of some help to those of you at your wits end! Open your bonnet and on the right hand side next to the battery is a plastic fuse box cover, remove this and just behind the headlight you should find three little black relays in a line, remove one at a time and look for any white/green corrosion, if found change all three (£14.75 each!) this completely cured a 1.2 16v Clio Dynamic which has the same faults as described on here, cutting out, non start, and rough running, simple to check and may save you hundreds of pounds as this will not show up on a diagnostics check. hope this helps some of you out. good luck"
-----
I have just been outside in my PJ's and my heavily pregnant belly to check these little black relays. The first 2 looked fine but the third was really hard to get out. After a bit of leverage from a screwdriver I managed to get it out and it did have a little bit of white / green dry dusty corrosion, but it didn't look like much at all and the rest of the pins were silver and shiny. Would you still recommend changing them all and if so do you know where I can get them and what I need to ask for?
Sorry to sound dumb, but I am totally clueless and heavily pregnant, but need to try this before I torch this piece of tripe car!! Thanks!
Can e-mail me direct at x_dnadoll@hotmail.com if easier.
I had exactly the same fault, cutting out and orange warning lights. Garage installed new crank shaft sensor. Problem of cutting out happened again. I located black box with very loose cover and insulated the wiring. Taped cover on as securely as possible. Cutting out happened again. Cover was loose. Can anyone help - I don't want to drive it any more.
I have a 2002 1.6 16v Clio that I am going mad about! My problem is, randomly when I am driving along whether it is 5mph in a car park or 70mph on the motorway the orange coil light comes on and the revs get 'stuck' at approx 2000revs. I can't accelerate and I have to pull over quickly. Whilst the car is still 'screaming' along at 2000revs I have to turn the engine off and then when I restart it it is fine (sometimes for a few minutes, sometimes for a week?!!) The TDC sensor has been changed and the throttle housing costing me £300, still with no luck. It also doesn't start properly, again just on random occasions! I am at my wits end with my car, and am also now worried about driving it as its quite dangerous. Has anyone else had this problem, or can anyone advise me on what it could be and what to do about it?