25th Apr 2009, 16:41

I have a 2003. The throttle pedal won't work when the heater pluglight comes on then it - will only rev to 1000 revs and do about 30 - can you help?

21st Jun 2009, 12:11

I own a 2002 1.8 Authentique Laguna.

It has given me intermittent power surge problems since I bought it in 2005 with only 27000km on the clock.

The electrical fault light comes on (petrol). I have no control of the accelerator. The car revs to about 3000RPM and drops down to 1500RPM with rapid ongoing fluctuations.

The car has repeatedly gone to Renault South Africa who have been unable to diagnose the problem at great personal costs in the replacement parts.

This morning the car started with the same problem. (Short of taking a 10lb hammer to the car engine), I started the process of elimination.

I found the following: while the car is idling with fault, I checked the engine fuse box behind the battery.

I noticed the battery sits very loosely in the battery housing.

The red wire leading from the positive terminal on the battery to the fuse box was loose and not making full contact.

While the car was still running, I removed the red wire, secured the battery in the battery housing with a block of wood (very expensive) and reconnected the red wire securely.

The fault immediately disappeared.

I took the car for numerous high speed test drives to try and replicate the fault, without success.

It would appear that when the battery sways in the housing, it puts pressure on the red wire, which may appear to be causing the power surge in the ECU.

I would love to know if this information helps in your cases.

Please respond to the blog page.

P.S. Do not forget to have your 4 digit radio code before starting, and no responsibility will be taken as I performed this as a desperate act, and the car manual says that you should not try this at home!

Good Luck.

13th Jul 2009, 03:42

Lagunas that cut out for no reason - I have had a problem where when slowing down to a junction or a roundabout, the car would just die, steering go heavy etc. I got used to this, as you sort of half expect it so are ready to press the button to restart the car, However back in February the engine cut to about 3000 revs, and if you pressed the accelerator any more, the WARNING, STOP, Engine management warning lights would come on and the engine would die completely.

If you then waited 30 minutes, it would restart but as soon as it got up to operating temperature would die again.

I had it sat on my drive for 5 months wondering what was up with it, thought it might be a temperature sensor, replaced some sensors, there are loads on the Laguna, but none of this sorted the problem.

I eventually gave in, and had to recovered to a friend of the family who is an auto electrician engine tuner, one week later and £538.00 poorer, the car is running fine.

The problem was fuel related, there is a submersible pump that sits in the fuel tank and a regulator valve, both of these were broken.

If a car runs for a while, and then dies, apparantly 9 times out of 10, its fuel related, especially if there are no nasty knocking sounds or other major mechanical noises before it cuts out.

Hope this helps, as I've read various comments on Forums that say if the engine dies, the engine is what needs replacing, which to be honest, in any car more than 2 years old, isn't going to be an economical option.

27th Sep 2009, 06:33

Renault Megane 1.8, year 1998 cold start problem.

When cold: Starts OK if the accelerator pedal is not touched. But when idling, if the accelerator is activated slightly or more, the engine coughs, cuts out, and stops.

Engine can easily be re-started, if the accelerator pedal is released, and the engine left to idle for approx one minute or more.

When the engine has been idling for a few minutes, and it has gained some temperature, the engine (car) can be operated normally.

If an attempt to operate the engine (car), is made before the engine has gained some temperature (few minutes of idle), the engine coughs, cuts out, and stops.

If an attempt to start, when cold, is made, with the accelerator-pedal, slightly or more activated, the engine coughs and appears as if it is just about to start, but it never does.

It just keeps on coughing, as long as starter-motor is engaged.

I know what to look for:

Temp. Sensors, throttle-position-potentiometer, air-mass / flow-sensor, and maybe even the lambda-sensor.

Probably only one of the above mentioned sensors (if defective), will create exactly this symptom.

Anyone who know which, or has ideas or suggestions, PLEASE tell.

Br. John Sorensen, Denmark.

15th Dec 2009, 13:07

I just bought a 2003 Laguna ll, and to be honest, what am reading about it is scaring me because although its problems are on a small scale, I am just waiting for the bang!!!

30th Apr 2010, 03:25

2001 1.9 Laguna Dynamique DCI.

I bought this car in January for 1250 quid, and I love it. It's white (not seen many in that colour) with black half leather interior and has really the smart alloys. It looks fantastic!

The problems I have had are both front electric windows don't work (been quoted 130 quid for parts plus labour per window).

Electric sunroof didn't work (fixed this myself by just playing around with it).

The keycard stopped working correctly, so I have to manipulate it to lock/unlock, and the tyre pressure sensors I pay no attention to whatsoever, as I knew all about those before I bought the car!

For the money I paid, if it was to blow up I could just throw it away, so I do feel sorry for all of you who paid thousands...

One thing I am really not happy about is the price Renault charge for a duplicate keycard, 250 quid! If I was to lose the one I have, I dread to think how much it would cost to get a new key/card reader. Anyone had to do this?

25th May 2010, 14:23


Renault Laguna 1.9 dci sports tourer people.

I have a 2001 model. Had the car about one a half years. 160000 miles on the clock. Price was £1,795.

Had to renew the turbo. The second one in the car's history.

Also new cat, new boot switch, an electric relay for the driver's window, nearly had to get a new EGR valve, but decided to clean mine.

Replaced the turbo regulator solenoid. NOW having problems with the brakes making funny sounds when driving and braking.

But had replaced all brake discs all round, and pads six months ago.

Problems, problems, problems etc etc etc etc.

Any info help with the brakes from anyone would be helpful.

So trying to get the brakes sorted this time, but after this the car will go go go go go.

28th Oct 2010, 18:14

Renault Laguna Mk2 all models.

Problems with slowly deflating tyres can easily be fixed. There is no need to replace valves, which could cost up to £400 with Renault.

Place the wheel under water covering the tyre valve looking for tiny air bubbles emerging from around valve seating or from top of nut. After confirming this, the cure is simple.

Clean the recess around the valve and valve stem. Deflate tyre, taking care not to lose bead. Using epoxy putty press, firmly into recess around valve. If leaking from the nut thread, use clear nail varnish, and brush several coats into the tread.

You should now have cured the problem, and no longer need to top up the air every few days.

Keycards can easily be fixed; you need a very small soldering iron and a watchmakers eyeglass. Carefully split the card using a Stanley knife. Hold it in a vice as you do each side.

When open, you may see a switch loose; re-position the switch, ensure it's the right way up first by holding and testing. Temporarily stick it in place while you solder the legs.

Now check the chip using a powerful watchmakers glass; look for raised legs on the chip and solder quickly.

Put the card back together, but fasten using sellotape, so you can easily open again if it fails.

Water can get into rear doors and then find it's way into the footwell. There is a drain plug in the bottom of the door remove to drain out water inside the door. Before replacing, push a screwdriver through plug bung before replacing. This can save you many future problems such as electric window problems etc.

Always change the engine oil and filter every 6,000 to 9,000 miles. Use ONLY fully synthetic oils. Never rev engines high in neutral and always allow 30 seconds before the engine is switched off. If you do lots of short journeys, drive a hot run every week.

Many strange problems come from dirty plug contacts or faulty sensors; unplug, clean and replug all these first.