2001 Saturn L300 from North America - Comments

Well folks I'm back. I'm the guy who posted earlier this morning (4/4/08) with the 2001 L300. I just peeled-up the carpet and it was not really soaked through to the underbody too bad. Just had to wipe with a cloth. Will have to bring it down to the car wash and give the carpet a good shampooing after the heater core repair.

As I stated in the last entry, the L300 overall was a good car for us up until the 60,000 mile mark when the GM time bomb starts to go off. I've had several GM models throughout the years and it seems they all do that. I don't know why I thought it would have been any different with this model. I was actually comparing the L to a Camry at the time and went with the value-cost of the Saturn. Had I made the choice to go with Toyota, I could have ran it up well over 100,000 like I planned to do with this one. Oh well, plan better on the next one. With all of the initial research I did, it certainly didn't show any red flags then, but who would have known at that time. The L model had only been out 2 years at that point and they tell you not to buy a new model until into the third year or rev. I'm sorry but NO MORE GM's until they really start prooving themselves with great reliable cars.

Also, the battery I had just put in a couple of years ago is testing weak. Now, I don't know if it's the Interstate battery itself or the poor electrical system of the Vauxhall made engine. Until the next one...

Kjazz/Portland OR.

I would have supported the notion the L300 is a good car up until a month ago. That is until a number of “things”, which are well documented on other forums, began to occur on the 2002 L300 3.0l Saturn I own. It all began with an occasional hesitation from a stand-still that at times would cause the car to shudder some when driving. So after changing the oil, fuel filter, air filter and plugs, which did not resolve the problem, I decided to bring it to the Saturn dealer to determine what the problem was.

The trouble codes that registered indicated misfiring on banks 2, 4 and 6 was occurring, along with the Bank 2 O2 sensor failure codes. The dealer, after further testing from what I am told determined the problem was with a failed coil pack. So I agreed to replace it ($350). Within 2 days the car became possessed and all kinds of strange electrical things began to occur (door locks, truck lid solenoid, wiper motor operating on their own and frequently lights flashing on and off, dash indicator lights (ABS, traction) etc). The classical BCM failure from what I have read on the various forums. In addition the hesitation and shouldering returned. So I returned to the dealer and they determined that the same codes as before were registered allow with a couple new one. They reset them and suggested I return if it re-occurs. Regarding the electrical issues they suggest possible BCM but no explanation as to why right after they worked on it.

After extensive wiring checks and without resolving the issue with this possessed car, I decided to get a used BCM and returned it to the dealer to program and install plus investigate the hesitation problem issue again. After numerous hour of checking (Cat converter, timing etc) they concluded the O2 sensor was the problem. I agreed to its replacement. (Total bill $750).

I got about 20 km the next day when the car just lost all power (both service engine lights on and reduced power light on) and just barely coasted to the side of the road. I limped back to the dealer in reduced power mode and this time they determined the MAF had failed ($350) though they did spare me the labour charges (They called it Good will). I argued that this latest failure was far too coincidental after they had used cleaning solvents on the Throttle control Body, which happens to be just down steam of the MAF sensor. These MAF sensors are known to fail from oil product contamination (GM technical bulletin 02-T-48). It is my belief this latest issue was either their doing or it was the original problem that manifested itself in a way that caused the misfiring which the O2 sensor would then detect in the exhaust gas. But they refuted my assumption and refused to budge...

It has been one day since I last picked it up (total cost to-date over $1200) and I am just waiting for the next show to drop. What I have read on the L300 over the last month scares me!!! Much of the same and allot MORE issues with this car and several other Saturn lines!!!

I have a 2001 L300 and have had ALL the same problems as listed in the last 90 posts. The newest problem came today when someone pulled up next to me at a stop light to advise me that I have NO BRAKE LIGHTS. We got home and checked the fuses which seem to be good. The tail lights work when the lights are on... but still no brake lights.

I really can't afford any more Saturn bills. I still have an ABS light on (1500 to fix they say) and the Oil cooler is leaking (so they say even though there isn't any coolant left on the ground - they said it's burning up before it hits the ground - but to fix it is going to be $500-800). The power steering they say is leaking (but again nothing showing).

If anyone knows how to fix the brake light issue on my own please let me know. I read on-line that there were some recalls on the tail lights of 2001 L300s but I'm not sure if that would still cover this issue because it came out a couple of years ago.

HELP PLEASE... I'M GOING BROKE AND CAN'T AFFORD TO BUY A NEW CAR!!!

I have posted before about my awesome car. But I thought I would just give a little update. At least most of the cars discussed are still semi functional. Mine sits - unable to move - in my garage. It won't start or drive anymore. The last time my car was "driveable", I got it out of the shop, drove it for two days. I was DRIVING it home from work when it sputtered to a sad death on the side of the road. After just moving, paying more and more to get this awful contraption fixed, I was beside myself. I have taken it everywhere - both to dealers and individual repair shops. Towed and driven. Replaced too many pumps, straps and parts to even count. I can't afford it anymore. My dad thinks I should go to Saturn and get them to acknowledge me. (Um, can you please buy me out?) I know it's not a total waste - but I also know that they are aware of the crappy car, it's history and the number of people who are suffering because of a poorly executed concept. The last mechanic I took it to gave me the number for an attorney. I'm not kidding.

I wish I could say that I've remained optimistic. That I'm sure Saturn makes good cars. I have friends who LOVE theirs. But, I'm not optimistic. I can say that once you have an experience like this - I don't care. I won't be buying another Saturn, good, bad or otherwise. I just wish they would read some of this.

I have had the same problems, oil cooler, brake lights, body control module at between 50,000 and 75,000 miles. Saturn recommend changing the timing belt at 100,000 miles, assuming the water pump lasts that long. Don't wait until then, change the timing belt no later than 80,000 miles. These cars have an interference engine ie. if the belt breaks you will most likely total the engine. Not good. A timing belt only costs about $40.00, but the design of the car will probably mean a 4 or 5 hour labor charge to install the new belt.

Here is a link to the interference engine that GM used on the L series and other vehicles: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_54-Degree_V6_engine

The more I read about this build...the more worried I get: (

I made a double mistake--bought TWO L-series...

The FIRST was the 4 cyl--manual tranny. Did great for the first 15-20k, but it has burned 2 ignition modules this year... STILL can't get a dealer to give me a straight answer on what's causing it. (The recall was performed at 40k--so no help there...)

The BIG disappointment has been the SECOND--a 2000 V-6 Ls-2. In January, we were on a ski trip to NC. It would cut out at about 4k RPM. (Later found out that was a clogged Catalytic Converter---check that out if you have missing about 4k!) The harmonic balancer came loose and stripped the serpentine belt (STOP RIGHT THERE--DO NOT ATTEMPT TO TURN OVER THE ENGINE!!!). There is no guard between the crankshaft and the balancer--the belt was sucked into the timing belt drive--THERE GO THE VALVES--and the engine...

BIG MISTAKE... decided to have a replacement engine installed. $2500 later, I'm having the 'code' problem detailed on the boards-- "lean this bank; misfire there..." TONIGHT, it started whinning... needs alternator..."

THE FOR SALE SIGN GOES UP AS SOON AS IT GETS BACK HOME--NO OFFER REFUSED (forget reasonable!)

Hello,

I have 2000 Saturn L Series. The car had a code showing lean bank, etc.. I erased the code with my OBD 2 and somehow messed the car up. It will barely start. It will not idle, and runs rough until 1000rpm. If you can get it above 1000rpm, it seems to run OK.

Any ideas as to what happened and what is wrong?

Thanks!!!

Re:2nd May 2008, 20:34.

Here is a link to the interference engine that GM used on the L series and other vehicles: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_54-Degree_V6_engine

The more I read about this build... the more worried I get: (

Be worried; be very, very worried.

After owning my 2001 Saturn L300 for about 2 and a half years now, I somehow just NOW found this website. From the moment I bought my car in 2005, it has been downhill from there. During my 3 month warranty, the car was perfect. Nothing went wrong. Unfortunately, 3 weeks after it was up, my water pump went... $500. This was my first car, so that to me seemed like a huge expense, but I was okay paying it because I thought it would be one of few major expenses. Oh how naive I was!

About 1 month later my muffler had a hole in it and had a mechanic custom make one for me because the dealership would have charged me an arm and a leg they said. Fortunately that was $150.

About 2 years after replacing my water pump, guess what?? IT WENT AGAIN! This time I found a place to replace it for $400.. saved myself $100 from the first time.

For the past 6 months I have been driving with my dashboard needles burnt out. I have replaced all possible fuses, and they still won't light up. All of the numbers for my speed light up, just not the needles. I still can't figure out what's wrong with it and I am learning to live with it for now because I fear what the cost will be. I don't even know what's wrong with it.

Just last week I needed to put brake pads on and replace my ball joints because my car started shaking immensely at 60mph and above. That was another $300 (and that was cheap because I had a friend who's a mechanic do it for me.. I paid him $100 for labor and had to buy the parts myself from an auto store.) He said it would have cost me well over $600 to get that done at a shop.. and I believe it.

I'm just relieved to know that I am not the only one! If anyone has had the same problem as me with the dashboard needles burnt out, please let me know what it took to fix it (especially how much it cost!) I'm still paying off my car, but I want to trade it in soon because I can't afford to keep fixing it! That's one of the things that I may just let go if I trade it in.. if it's going to cost a ridiculous amount of money!

Thanks!

Hopefully, the 29 Aug 2007 posting re: the CPS (crankshaft position sensor) will be the answer to my problem. I will keep all informed on my success or failure. The original poster, seemed to have suggest after several months.

CAR: 2002 Saturn L300, automatic.

PROBLEM: I filled up with gas, pulled into McDonald's for lunch and when I tried to leave, the car wouldn't start. It was cranking (battery and starter were OK), but acted as though it wasn't getting any gas. Thankfully, it started after only about 10 min (I was 200 miles from home).

The problem resurfaced a couple of weeks later, and a week after that, and a week after that,...etc. Oddly enough, it seemed to happen mostly on weekends, mostly with a fuller tank of gas, and mostly when my husband was driving. The delay before starting in these subsequent episodes ranged from 20, 30, or 60 min.

So my LONG TIME, very reliable and trustworthy local mechanic, found that the fuel pump had low pressure (after episode #2), but $660 didn't fix the problem. (Of note, he's never been able to reproduce the problem.)

After several more episodes, my office director (motor oil in his veins) suggested that perhaps there was water in the gas. So, a new fuel filter and two bottles of HEET later, it's still happening. (It's happening less often, but still happening.) And now there's a new problem.

PROBLEM: Sitting in traffic, coasting into Wal-Mart's parking lot, idling in front of the grocery, and again sitting in traffic, the car dies. It starts right up (thank God!), but how frustrating (and a bit scary).

SES Light: After most of the non-start episodes, a steady Service Engine Soon light came on and either remained on until my mechanic reset it or went off after about 2 days. When this light would first come on, the car would shift in a very jerky fashion. It didn't continue after I drove home and restarted the car.

Codes: Of no help.

P1780-Transmission Control Module.

So, I'm hoping the CPS will be the answer I'm looking for. If you're one who prays, please say one for me, my car, and my husband.

First, let me say I owned a 1995 SL1 for 9 years & LOVED it!!! It never had to have any major repairs. Husband still drives it (200,000+ miles) and it still has never had to have any major repairs. When it came to for me to buy a new car it was a no brainer - another Saturn. Now I am questioning my decision. I feel very lucky that I have not had some of the problems that others here have had. Oh, yeah, and my next car will be a Toyota!

I have a 2003 L300 I bought new in December 2003. It has 75,000 miles on it. So far I have had oil changes when the oil sensor light goes on. I have replaced brakes & tires. In the 4 years I have been driving this car I have not had any repair problems, until March 2008.

OK, here is what happened:

Last year my SES light would come on & engine would surge. Someone told me to try tightening the gas cap. I did & for a while it seemed to work. The SES light did not come on & no engine surging.

Since the beginning of winter tightening the gas cap no longer seemed to work. I would drive for about 25 miles & the SES light would go on & the engine would surge. If I turn the engine off for a while the SES light goes off. I knew I needed to take it to the dealer.

Then I noticed fluorescent green liquid under the car. Husband said it was a condenser leak. I knew the condenser was going to be a very expensive repair.

I took the car into the dealer for a diagnostic. Here is what I was told:

1. Condenser needs to be replaced $810.

2. SES light due to "bank 2 sensor" & thermostat. Cost to replace $230 & $432 respectively.

Other recommended service items:

3. Serpentine belt needs to be replaced $211.

4. Cooling system flush $132.

5. Clean fuel injection system $132.

6. New battery $135.

OK, now this is the weird part. When the service guy was giving me the estimate he neglected to tell me the correct price. He told me that the thermostat replacement was $230 & he did not tell me about the "bank 2 sensor". So I was quit shocked when the SES repair went from $230 to $662. I lost my temper.

The service manager came over to talk with me. I told him about my excellent experience with the SL1 & how disappointed I was with the L300. I told him I was upset that the estimate was incorrect. I said that I expected the condenser repair to cost about $1,000 but I did not expect an additional $1,000 in repairs. The Service manager said that he would make some calls & see if he could get me a break on the repairs. Now I thought he was blowing smoke but I received a call from him at 4:30 pm today. He said for $500 Saturn would replace the condenser, the thermostat & the "bank 2 sensor".

For $500 I had the Dealership replace the condenser, thermostat & oxygen sensor. In addition I had them replace the serpentine belt for an extra $211.

OK, Took the car in. Apparently the condenser leak "magically" repaired itself. Because all that was needed was a new condenser line. (Can you say, "let's rip off a woman?") I had specifically asked the service rep on Tuesday if both the condenser & line needed to be replaced & he assured me that, yes, both of them needed to be replaced b/c the screw that held the bracket in place had penetrated the condenser.

So, condenser line, thermostat, and O2 sensor replaced for $500 and serpentine belt replaced for $211. When I received the bill I specifically had to ask for the $59 diagnostic fee to be deducted.

But, here comes the best part, on my way to work at 25 miles the SES light came on!!!

Stopped at Autozone on the way home from work. SES light was on again. The code:PO135 O2 sensor.

Took the car into the dealership. Showed the service rep the AutoZone printout. I expressed how upset I was that after a $500 repair I was still having the exact same problem with the car.

The technician examined the car. The service rep informed me that it was the O2 sensor on Bank 1 that was giving the error code. On Thursday it was the O2 sensor on Bank 2 that had been replaced. So he offered to replace the sensor for the cost of the part, $124. I agreed.

After the second O2 sensor repair in two days I attempted to drive the car home. When I had driven 1 mile the SES light came on AGAIN!!! Same symptoms.

I pulled into Autozone to have the code read. The man at AutoZone said that no code was coming up.

So back to Saturn. This time it was P1811 shift solenoid. There was a conference between me, the technician, the service rep, and the service manager. I was ASSURED this time the car would be repaired. It would be done at no cost and I was given a loaner car at no charge.

Here is what is going on THIS time - June 2008.

Last week I am driving & SES & wrench light go on. Then they immediately go out.

Several days later they light up again. I am cruising on the expressway at 65 mph. This time I notice the tach jumping from 1 to 2 on the dial. I don't notice the car driving any differently when the tach is malfunctioning. When the tach jumps to 2 the lights go off.

Several days ago I am driving 65 mph on the expressway when SES & wrench light up & I see the tach is at 0. Then jumps to 2 and lights go out.

In the morning I drove home from work with no dash lights.

That night on the way to work I did have dash lights, however, my odometer was not working. It was completely black.

Well, I put a new battery in the car (I needed one anyway - $75 Wal-mart husband installed). Still had the same problems; no odometer, wrench light & SES light on when at 65 mph, tachometer needle at 0.

Took it to the dealer because I thought it was the BCM. Error codes M5305 & M5307 & P2107. Recommended repair - replace the throttle body. $1050.

The first thing after I spoke to the service rep on the phone was to go get my car. Neither I nor my husband believe it is the TAC because the car is running fine.

I have noticed that the tach problem seems to only happen at night when I am using the cruise control. I have not observed this problem during the day while using the cruise control. So I did an experiment - This morning on my way home from work I turned the headlights on & set the cruise. Within 5 miles the tach went to 0, the wrench light & SES lights went on. I turned the headlights off & tach went back to 2 & lights went out!

Found out on the Saturn Forums that the source of my electrical problems might be caused by shorting tail lights.

I never received a recall letter. I will be going to the dealer to have this recall work done.

Make / Models : SATURN / L-SERIES SEDAN Model/Build Years:2000-2002 SATURN /L-SERIES WAGON 2000-2004.

Manufacturer : GENERAL MOTORS CORP. Mfr's Report Date : MAY 31, 2005

NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 05V245000 PE05010

NHTSA Action Number: PE05010.

Component: EXTERIOR LIGHTING:BRAKE LIGHTS

Potential Number Of Units Affected : 291652

Summary:

ON CERTAIN SEDANS AND WAGONS, THE PLASTIC HOUSING IN THE REAR TAIL LAMP ASSEMBLY CAN BECOME DISTORTED IF THE BRAKE LAMPS REMAIN ON FOR AN EXTENDED TIME.

Consequence:

THIS CAN CAUSE (1) AN INTERMITTENTLY INOPERATIVE BRAKE/TAIL LAMP BULB OR (2) A SHORT CIRCUIT THAT OPENS A FUSE CAUSING INOPERATIVE BRAKE LAMPS (INCLUDING THE CENTER HIGH-MOUNTED STOP LAMP) OR TAIL LAMPS. A FOLLOWING DRIVER MAY NOT KNOW WHEN THE BRAKES HAVE BEEN APPLIED, AND A REAR-END CRASH COULD OCCUR WITHOUT PRIOR WARNING.

Remedy:

DEALERS WILL INSTALL TWO NEW TAIL LAMP REINFORCING SOCKET ADAPTERS AND SOCKETS FREE OF CHARGE. THE RECALL BEGAN ON OCTOBER 17, 2005. OWNERS MAY CONTACT SATURN AT 1-800-972-8876.

Notes:

GM RECALL NO. 05052. CUSTOMERS MAY ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION'S VEHICLE SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), OR GO TO HTTP://WWW.SAFERCAR.GOV.

Hope this helps someone. BTW check out the Saturn Fans Forum. The posters are really helpful over there with mechanical problems.

Cheryl

Naperville, IL

Hi, my name is Ron. I also have a Saturn L300 2001. I've had almost all the problems as you all.

If you have a coolant leak, most likely it's the oil cooler under the manifold.

Tail lights are a recall; Saturn will fix them.

The car stalling along the side of road; I had the cam shaft sensor replaced.

If you push on gas fast, but it won't go above 4000 rpm, think it might be body control module or ECM.

Back defrosters don't all work.

Electric heated seats don't work.

Heater fan only works if it feels like it.

Air conditioner blows hot air.

Have 15 different error codes; 02 code, AC/clutch code, trans control switch code, b3b00, b14bb, p0030, c1014, po727, u1016, u1060, u1096, b2b00, pi42b, p0050, p1311, b251. All are codes that may lead to the body control module or the ECM. If you have fixed some of these code successfully, I'd like to hear how.

Thanks

Ron lives in Michigan.

We purchased our 2005 Saturn L300 brand new. The check engine light and low coolant light have come on several times over the last 2 1/2 years. The vehicle has been in for repairs 9 times for some aspect of the cooling system. The Saturn dealer has replaced 3 water pumps, 7 master fuses, and 3 cooling fans, each time telling us that this should be the last time we are in for a repair like this, that was fall of 07. The low coolant light has come on again. We took the vehicle back to the dealer and they wanted to charge us a $100.00 diagnostic fee to tell me what was wrong (like I didn't know from the last 9 times I've had it in). They had the car for a day, and came to the conclusion that the master fuse has blown. they split the diagnosis cost with me and the replacement of the fuse, sent us on down the road. The very next day the low coolant light comes on again. I check the master fuse, sure enough it's blown. I replaced the fuse only to have it blow again, and then again. Went back to Saturn, very frustrated, and they gave us a loaner vehicle and this time did not charge us for diagnosis. Another bad cooling fan which was causing the fuse to blow. I have spoken with the 1-800 Saturn number, they have opened an "investigation" for us. The 1-800 Saturn number assures me they are working with the dealer to help negotiate our costs of the repairs down since we are out of warranty. I expressed my concern to the general manager of the dealership, the regional service manager, and the 1-800 Saturn supervisor. Our concern is they are addressing the symptoms and not addressing the problem. I believe the L300 is a poorly designed vehicle, and will never own another Saturn. My only recourse through this process is that other potential car buyers will read these comments and stay clear of any Saturn vehicle. Thanks for hearing me out.

I bought my 2002 L300 in April 2005. While I had a few options with the money I was spending, I was smitten with the leather interior, sleek exterior, and overall attractive design. The following are the problems I had with the car.

The ECM went out on me after 1 year with the car in my possession. It was covered by warranty still, so the dealership replaced it, no problem. No ECM problems since.

The sun roof motor went out on me, would have cost an arm and a leg to repair. It was in the closed position, so I did not bother fixing it. I think it was broken when someone tried to break into my car.

The only other thing that happened was my brakes going out on me. I had left a smog test to get my registration, and noticed the ABS light coming on. After leaving AAA with my tags, I decided to return to the smog test station to get them to fix my ABS indicator. As I was going down a sloped street, my breaks went out, causing me to smash into some poor guy with a new car two hours off the lot. Nobody was hurt, but my car was a total loss. Still not sure if the smog test station is responsible (currently being investigated by my insurance company.

Despite these shortcomings, I really loved that car. Anticipated maintenance dates so I could get them done early, washed every Friday, used the high octane gas only, and it ran like a dream. I know there are a lot of disgruntled Saturn drivers here, and some of you have every reason to be. I just wanted to put my voice on here by saying that I am currently looking for a new car, and yes, Saturns are definitely getting first looks. Thanks for reading.