15th Jul 2014, 10:55

Any more updates? Great review. Enjoyed reading it.

5th Aug 2014, 10:50

The car is still going strong. I did replace the original radiator as it was starting to look a bit tired and I felt the fan was kicking on a bit too often. So a new aluminium radiator (slightly more robust looking and a bit higher capacity than the original copper core) was $90 from a local parts store plus postage. The car was showing no sign of parasitic current leakage through the cooling system, so I did a cooling system flush and filled it with long life red coolant (Toyota long life).

At the same time I replaced the thermostat and the housing, which was showing some corrosion around the hose fitting. I also replaced the radiator mounts, as though they were still servicable, they were original and showing tiredness and wear. Keeps things nice and vibration free.

Still no breakdowns and it's now riding on a set of Yokohama C Drive2s; much nicer than the S Drives I had prior for punting around the Brisbane streets.

I'm considering replacing the rear water fitting for the water pump and the water pump itself, which I'm pretty sure are still original. There is a little sign of seepage from around the hose from the pump to this rear fitting, but it's not showing in the coolant level.

I'm amazed that the CVs are still original on this car and are showing no sign of clicking yet (knock on wood) given the age.

The only things that I think probably need looking at are the engine mounts; they're starting to transfer a bit more vibration than I'd like. Also the clutch is probably original and starting to need looking at replacing, as sometimes I think the tension plate is starting to lose its spring. Possibly the rear rotors are due for replacing as they're nearing their wear limits. Apart from those things, everything still works as it should.

17th Aug 2014, 11:49

Mine is a 1998 Toyota Corolla. GLX, the top spec. Done 309k. Original clutch and suspension. Drives still like it's done 50k. Apart from cambelts 3 times, an oil change every 8-10k and once having the gearbox oil replaced, we did nothing. Still passes VTNZ WOF without any warning. Needed a few odd things like tyres and bulbs, but nothing mechanical. We strongly believe we can cross a million and we will. The clutch is fairly worn and we will be lucky if we can get 30 more ks out of it, but it's great for being original.

20th Nov 2014, 11:41

The car is now hitting 165,000km.

The 160,000km service, self done, replaced the following:

Air filter - Ryco, oil filter - Toyota, oil - Castrol Edge Sport, transmission fluid - Castrol Syntrax, brake fluid - Castrol Super Response Dot4, clutch slave cylinder fluid - as brake fluid.

Brake bleed, clutch bleed.

Brake rotors still within tolerances; rears quite close though.

Iridium plugs checked - still have 50,000km of their life left.

Timing still spot on.

No breakdowns, part failures, oil leaks or warning lights, everything still working.

Air conditioner internal evaporator and blower fan cleaned to improve A/C prior to summer. Did improve cool down and flow through (a cabin filter would've avoided ever needing to do this, but it's an older car so it had to be done).

The blower fan resistor insulation was cracked, so it could do with replacing, but it still works; will replace it soon, but the part is not easily available through Toyota Australia, so the good ol' internet comes to the rescue. The part is pretty universal across all AE10X series in all countries.

This summer is going to be a stinker, but the A/C is working better than ever, so hooray again for Denso Australia Air Conditioning and a proper full A/C service at a local Toyota service centre - not just those re-gas "services".

The car sits a bit higher than factory on those replacement "standard" height king springs, so I've been thinking of lowering it, but there are so many instances on the mean streets of Brisbane where I'm glad I haven't. Oh yes, if you put a bigger sway bar on the rear of this car, make sure you seam weld the shock absorber sway bar linkage brackets on them; the usual dinky tiny spot welds on them just aren't strong enough, and are guaranteed to ping off when turning a corner up or down a hill. I should've mentioned that in an earlier posting.