1999 Vauxhall Zafira Elegance from UK and Ireland - Comments

I too have had the same problem with my 2.0 DTI Zafira with the EMS light coming on. Problems that arise are the car will do no more than 3000 revs when on and there is a noticeable lack of power, the car then goes into limp home mode. However it is not on permanently on goes off on the motorway when driving at speed. I took it to garage and they diagnosed the ERG valve (Costing £350). When I started the car up the light came straight back on!!! Decided to get my money back and take to a reputable dealer. They aslo diagnosed the ERG Valve but also said that the mass air flow meter was faulty, they were right! This cost £290 and I have not had the problem since. They did change the ERG valve as well but put the old one back on as that was not faulty.

Those of you who have suffered with the car not starting in the morning try parking it on a downhill slope, this cured my fault and it starts first time every time.

Hi I had probs with my zafira misfireing had a coilpack no good. but I got the plug what goes to the coilpack and put some wd40 on it and now OK.

Posted something about my 02 plate zafira on the 17th of april... it has taken me this long to book it in to the garage... any way I broke down and had to recovered... the recovery guy diagnosed only through looking at it and fiddling with it that it was the idle speed control valve!! so booked it in to the garage... not vauxhall... to have the diagnostics done and it was the idle speed control valve and the egr valve.. is in the garage as we speak and parts will be fitted tomorrow.. had quotes for the idle speed valve of between 265.00 and 280.00 but mananged to get it for 198.00 egr valve was quoted 74.99 but got it for 51.00 so saved a bit of money...also had it serviced so fingers crossed all of the above will make it better will let you know...

These cars are fitted with electronic egr's, you can test them by removing the 3 bolts, pull out the egr then get 2 bits of wire one on negative of a 12v battery one on positive put the 2 wires on each of the outer terminals of the egr if it goes up and down it works fine by the way it goes really fast, clean it spray with some carb cleaner etc and replace, job done

chris.

I've been reading through the comments on Zafira's about the loss of power, and thought I may be able to help some of you. I own a 1.6 Zafira, and recently experienced loss of power. I know a very good mechanic, and he diagnosed the problem in 30 seconds, It was a broken cat (which he says is very common). I noticed someone else found this out on their Zafira but seemed to pay a lot to get it fixed. The cat is part of the manifold, and I managed to get mine done for under £200 all in. A quick test for you to try... put your hand by the exhaust tailpipe while someone revs the engine (be carefull it may be hot) if you can feel small fragments hitting your hand, then this is probably bits from inside the cat, hence it is most probably destroyed. Hope this helps.

Hi, OK Now the problem is sorted...

I am the 'Chris' from 2nd May, 2.0DTI fault.

I checked the voltage, and it was fine; nothing out of the ordinary.

Last Friday, I managed to get hold of a fault code reader, and after throwing up a load of fault codes (11!) I cleared them. You must ask your garage to clear the codes as they diagnose, ie you have a problem and they start taking leads off to find the fault; each time they take a lead off, this will flag up a fault! So if they take off the Air Mass meter to see if it changes the way it runs, and the problem was NEVER that part, the ECU will still show an Air Mass Meter fault. So get them to read it, then clear it, then read it again.

So, the good news, it was the Crank sensor that was at fault. I went to my local Andrew Page's and bought one for the princely sum of £23.30; I fitted it, and hey presto, all is well!

The important thing with any vehicle, is the diagnosis. Get that right first, and everything is easy...Hindsight is a wonderful thing!

As for EGR being electronic, I think you are confusing that with an Idle control valve? The EGR on the DTI is vacuum operated, and is underneath the black 'vauxhall' engine cover, at the front. Remove the 2 bolts either side, and remove it and clean it. Then, press the valve in your hand, and put your finger over the end where the Vacuum hose goes. If it doesn't move while you have your finger over it, then the EGR SHOULD be OK, if it moves then it is fubar'd, and you need a new one! They go on ebay quite cheaply.

I hope this helps some?

Cheers

happy driving

Chris.

Hi there in response to comment about the egr this is electronic on the petrol versions but I don't know about the diesel versions, vauxhall are one the few companies that fit electronic egrs which give a massive speed response over the solely machanical type I hope this helps to clear that up.

I have a zafira elegance 1.8 petrol, the EM light came on and it was diagnosed as an air mass meter fault, that was changed but the fault light remained, I was told it maybe the ecu it self that is faulty, and that I can buy a virgin (new) one that can simply replace the old one in a straight swap, can anyone advise if this is correct and where to buy one. it was suggested " bbs" or something similar have a web site. it would be great if I could just swap them over as I live in the channel islands, and sending mine away to be repaired may cause a long downtime on my car. Any advice would be much appreciated.

NO NO NO NO NO!

The garage are talking Bulls**t!

Have they read the ecu codes?

Ask them for the codes?

Google the fault codes and see for yourself!

If they are just second guessing, which sounds like they are, then telephone around you local garages, and ask them if they can read your fault codes, how much they would charge, and ask them what make of reader they use, you want them to be using either a 'Sun' 'Snap on' or 'Sykes Pickavant' these are all good ones, and ones that will definitely give you the right code.

The changing an ecu is really a last resort, and is not something that would be the most likely fault.

As I said in a previous entry, the most important thing is fault finding first, not second guessing and trying to put parts on.

I hope this helps.

Cheers

Chris.

I agree changing the ecu is only an attempt to rectify the problem because the garage don't know whats wrong with it

the other chris.

Be aware that vauxhall zafiras have a quirk concerning low oil levels, on high mileage engines the oil light does'nt come on but the ems light will and gives a "knock sensor fault" top up the oil and it goes away, mines done 180,000, and uses 1L of oil per 300 miles. has had 3 coil packs but nothing else. 1.8 dual fuel.

Hi I have had a 1.6 club zafira for 13 weeks 4 of them have spent back at the dealerships. On two occasions complete loss of power and they replace starter motor and alternator. The last time em light came on loss of power (car with spanner) back to the garage who have told me the car needed two gallons of oil. Would every one who has had this problem agree that this would solve the problem our would you want it looking into more. This car was only serviced at the end of Feb (where has all the oil gone?) I don't know much about cars and I think the garage know that too.It's a 2002 1.6 club.

I have a zafria 20 dti.its been a night mare stater motor fault & burning out. not being able to turn of the vehicle & lights coming on the dash. engine management light with a fault of glow plugs. the car will run rough & then a noise with a burning smell then you won't be able to start the vehicle. it must be an electrical fault. problem after problem

any one else experienced this.

I found this thread really useful in identifying the problem with my Zafira so I thought I would pay back by letting you know that my garage cured the problem with the warning light coming on and the engine going "limp" by cutting the cables to the EGR Valve! Total cost less than £70.

I have a V reg Zafira 1.6, which today cut out, then smoke started coming out of the dash. Phoned the RAC out & they advised me that it's the starter motor that's burned out. He then went on to say that to repair it, it could run into thousands to fix, as it might need a new wiring loom. After the guy had gone I decided to check the electrics & everything seems to work i.e radio, windows, lights etc. The car just won't start, so can someone correct me if I'm wrong, but surely the wiring loom should be fine if the electrics are working?