1994 Volvo 460 GLE from Thailand - Comments

4th May 2005, 01:14

"I feel secure in this powerfull, yet expensive to maintain car and will keep it as long as it runs"

What things have gone wrong with the car?

I didn't note the mileage when things happened... but this has happened so far:

Air conditioner failed - needed new compressor.

ABS failed - warning light on. Wires and sensors replaced - lastet few weeks, then warning light again. Didn't bother since, warning light still on.

Engine overheated - Relays for fan exchanged.

Same thing again - two weeks later.

Same AGAIN - four weeks after second time, fixed myself, since working flawless (soldered wires to relays instead of using sockets)

Ignition failed (engine went off, didn't start again) - garage changed multiple parts, since then engine doesn't run as smooth as before, but runs.

Fuel pump failed - exchanged.

Air condition failed again - another new compressor, since then, leaking coolant gas and need to refill every couple of months, engineer says "need a new pipe" but too expensive.

Driving belt replaced - replacement lasted FOUR days! Replaced again. Garage used too much tension - bearring somewhere damaged, since noise from bearring, but yet not changed (expensive!) happened some 6 months ago.

Window-washer tank broke, not yet replaced (part unavailable).

Cooler radiator started leaking - fixed (welded).

Power-steering leaked - replaced a seal, after few days, leaked again even stronger than before - mechanic had over-fastened a bolt. Now had to replace whole unit (EXPENSIVE!!)

Dashboard broken at several places, results in squeaking/rattling. Don't bother - it's an old car by now.

Rear suspension weak - needs new shock absorbers. Not replaced yet.

Starter trouble since early on - replaced rotor and coals, then entire starter unit, then a sensor in the gearbox - still, many times it just won't start. Relay will click, that's it. Have to try multiple times before it will start. Starter relay not available as spare part! Only whole unit with motor (EXPENSIVE!!)

General comments?

The 460 GLE 2.0 is a very powerful car. Torque is enormous compared with other 2.000 cc cars.

Speed is very good (180 km/h on motorway/2nd stage expressway), at higher speeds very good to handle.

Car seems to be rust-proof - not a trace of rust ANYWHERE on body or under the car, even tough no specific care is taken.

Yet it is extremely thirsty in city traffic - 20 liters per 100 km is "normal". On motorway at constantly around 110 km/h it is around 14 liters/100 km. At constant 90 km/h it is less than 10 liters/100 km.

Very comfortable, spacey car for long distance travel, however air condition is too weak (only "ON" or "OFF", no regulator) for south-east-Asia.

Maintenance and, particular, spare parts are extraordinary expensive in Thailand, since all parts have to be imported from Europe (France, Netherland). The Volvo 460 is not a "real" Volvo, but a Renault with a Volvo body, the mechanic explained. It is terrible to work on.

The elctric system is full of faults and almost everyday something fails - stereo, some light, horn, fan, aircondition, wiper - lots of "worms" in the wires. Mechanics don't bother looking for faults - too many, they say. They rather put new wires in and simply disconnect the old, faulty ones. My car is a patchwork, electrically seen.

However the engine itself runs like a fine swiss watch - I guess it will live for ever. I am not planning to change cars yet.

The Volvo 460 GLE has lost more than 50 % of it's value in the last three years. I bought mine for 300.000 Baht (in 2002), now the price to buy one is 140.000 and I would get, if I sell to a dealer, 110.000 for it. It still looks like showroom condition except the dah which is broken at several places.


11th May 2005, 06:04

I own too a 460 GLE and I had the same problem with leaking from the power-steering. Although I'm not a mechanic, I took the car to a garage and someone helped me dismantle the unit (there are only 9 nuts to unscrew) and I replaced ALL the seals (they were 10 years old and apparently in good condition, but rubber gets old and loses elasticity, you know). You should only check that the main cylinder has no scratches, otherwise it should be replaced. Since I replaced the seals (almost a year ago), NOT A DROP is leaking anymore and I don't have to check all the time the level of the power-steering fluid. All it takes is a little attention to detail and the will to do a perfect job, since the set of brand new seals is not expensive at all. (Stefan)

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3rd Jun 2005, 08:37

Hello again.

Two weeks ago I once again was stuck in the middle of a jungle, sort of, with the car not willing to start, and had to organize a tow. I then replaced the starter finally, the complete unit. And guess what?

THE PROBLEM REMAINS!

I wonder why in the world this starter issue is so sticky, even through a newly built-up starter motor and, now, a brand new set of motor, relay and mechanics. It's definitely not the battery's fault since that is new as well, and even a wire directly from the relay to the battery won't make it start, the relay won't even pull. Can that be a grounding issue? After all, the "plus" of the battery is connected directly to the relay via that wire, so it should at least pull in any case, yet it doesn't. But the unit is bolted onto the gearbox/engine and I suppose that's enough for grounding??

Anyone having similar experience?

Thanh.

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8th Jul 2005, 13:31

Simply> your mechanic did a lousy job.

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15th Jul 2005, 07:52

Hi again. July 15th. Just got the car back from the garage, yet again. Two days ago, in the evening - the bearring noise I was so used to all of a sudden stopped, power went down, and when accelerating a new, ugly noise was audible, along with strong vibrations. I got home still.

Next day, driven to the garage at snail's pace - lucky it isn't far. The following parts were replaced:

- Water pump

- driving belt (once again...)

- main wheel that "drives" that belt - don't know what that thing is called in english

-a pulley - or what it's called - that gives the belt a different direction. That was the one with the noisy bearring.

The reason for the jamming was the water pump! It had gone hard, and now just blocked. Apparently it had sort of rusted through, there are several small holes obviously from corrosion, and it went into the pump's bearrings which slowly disintegrated.

Now my Volvo runs VERY smooth, no problems with the idling anymore, and has somewhat more power (with air conditioner ON it runs now like previously with air conditioner OFF) and doesn't leak water anymore!

Another two month's salary spent (Repair amounted to a little over 16.000 Baht - 325 Euros - a small fortune in Thailand). Let's see how long till the next thing breaks down.

Thanh.

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15th Jul 2005, 08:10

I know you don't need anti-freeze to guard against freezing in Thailand, but you do need it in order to protect your cooling system from corrosion and lubricate the water pump.

Use a 50:50 solution of coolant and distilled water.

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26th Jul 2005, 05:34

Hello again :)

Thank you very much for that information. The garage obviously doesn't see the need to inform me about that. Of course they are happy to sell a new water pump every then and when.

However they DID fill the system with that stuff last time! And so far there are no further problems with the car, it still runs excellent and I noticed a considerable drop in fuel consumption as well. It's almost like they put a new engine in there... which they maybe did, in a Thai garage you'll never know.

I even changed the rear shock absorbers last week, finally... at 3.000 Baht for two of them (made in South Africa, "Gabriel" brand, model "Gas Ryder") the ride instantly became much better. Now I need to change the front shocks as well... I think sooner or later this car will be new-all-round. I even fixed that electric water pump motor for the window wiper! They tried to sell me a new one for 2.000 Baht... insane. I took it apart, cleaned it (rust!) and put it back together - works just like a new one. Next things to tackle... electric door switch passenger side, glove compartment lid (broken opener button), front shocks, new tyres. In that order, as the money becomes available.

Regards...

Thanh.

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28th Jul 2009, 16:11

I have Volvo 460 1600cc with no info center. I have bought a new console which has an info center. Can I make the info center work, or there is another model of the engine that works with this info center?

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