2000 Volvo S40 from North America - Comments

As I already said, Volvo dealers are crappy, and It seems that not only in EU, but in USA too, maybe all over the world...

And as far I read all these reviews, I think that problems you all have with your Volvo's are because you go to those crappy dealers.

On the other hand, Americans seems to think a car is unreliable if a cup holder breaks.

Very happy long-time Volvo owner.

Hello All:

I own a 2001 S40 made in Belgium for the US market. Although I've never had the more costly problems others have posted, I have had many of the same small issues; headlights and rear running lights burn out frequently, turbo oil drain o-ring leaking, rear brake pads wearing too fast, both front and rear rotors with deep wear, automatic climate control sometimes goes on and off without driver intervention.

At 100k miles I changed the timing belt (recommended change interval is 110k miles). At that time I also changed the spark plugs as the car was starting to run a bit rough. Shortly thereafter the car developed a miss when accelerating fairly aggressively. I finally traced it to the coil-on-plug connector. The 2 wires of that connector are held in place with a small rubber like substance. The rubber had disintegrated allowing the 2 wires to back out of the connector when you tried to insert it to the coil. After a few miles the normal engine vibration would cause an intermittent connection and the miss. Pushing the wires fully onto the coil pins and some RTV where the wires enter the connector solved that issue.

Now my latest issue has me stumped. The first symptoms were longer than normal cranking before it would fire up. Then one day the car would not start at all without putting your foot on the gas pedal and cracking the throttle just a tad. It would die as soon as you let off the throttle. I first thought it was the Idle Air Control motor as the original IAC appeared to be stuck closed. I removed the IAC and started the car using my finger over the hole to control the idle. $200 later the car started fine... for about a week. Now it's back to sometimes cranking longer than normal, other times it starts on the first turn. The weirdest issue during this period was the strange smell that happened after I replaced the IAC. It did not smell like wire insulation burning (no fried fuses either). It did however smell electrical in nature. (as opposed to fuel or oil).

Has anyone ever had the longer than normal cranking issue? How did you fix it?

Thanks,

Hugh.

Hudini -at- tds -dot- net <== (for spam bots)

Hello all:

I have a cautionary tale about Volvo service and the Volvo S40 2000. For the seven years I've owned the vehicle, I had the usual minor inconveniences (brake pads needed changing, cup holder broke, tail lights and other fuses going out, etc.) with only one major repair (catalytic converter replaced under warranty). I was good about doing regular car maintenance and enjoyed driving my stylish little car.

After about 59+K miles, the car underwent a 60,000 mile service and immediately started to have escalating problems. Engine began to skip, excessive vibration became a teeth rattling tremor, overall the car seemed "sick". I returned to the dealer twice with my concerns and they finally diagnosed the problems as related to my spark plugs and emission coils, which they replaced. Car still "wasn't right".

Then one late night returning home, I was at a red light when the car temperature indicator suddenly rocketed to the double red marks and the engine oil indicator flickered on and off. No smoke or fumes, but the fan went crazy.

After limping back home a short distance with the hazards on, I towed the vehicle to the dealer the next day and learned that the radiator hose had "suddenly split open". Service guy said I was very lucky to avoid any engine damage.

Now two weeks later, after I've returned two more times to the dealer for "check engine" indicators, the service team has finally realized that maybe the radiator coolant did some damage and leaked into various parts of the engine. $2100 for a head gasket which "may or may not" fix the problems.

The morale of my story: Check the hoses and fluids yourself because I don't believe the service guys do. And more importantly, read Consumer Reports about a car before you buy because then you'll know beforehand how unreliable Volvo really is.

My next car: 2008 Acura TSX (look into it, you'll be definitely happier)

I bought my meatball 2002 slug S40 from the factory in Sweden as an American spec vehicle... I have been plagued with problem after problem with this car... first 1000 miles the airbag light came on and on and on... then the electric seat froze in my wife's position (I'm six foot, she's 5'4"). Then the turbo went out at 51000 m. Did I tell you the airbag light and check engine lights were on? Hmmm... now, my problems are a broken power antenna and the clock and trip meter auto resetting. After all this, I mistakenly purchased the XC90... the airbag lights are on and it's making a pinging noise from the rear...

I don't know what disappoints me more; the actual car or the rip off artists at the dealership...

Enjoy your yuppy icons as I am offloading these clunkers and buying a beamer or something American.

I'm thankful that I haven't had ALL of the problems related in the previous entries. However, I have had enough of them to be totally turned off by Volvo. I currently have the S40. I have owned 1986 and 1996 Volvo 240s, which are great cars! The S40 started out fine, except for the cup holder which went immediately. Then the constant headlamp changes as well as other exterior lights. But the vibration problem is still unresolved; I am basically just living with it until I can dump this vehicle; problem is now I've got the check-engine light problem. My 2000 S40 was manufactured in Holland. All I can say is these are good cars gone bad.

I owned S40 since May 1999.

The brake warning light is on all the time now. While I was googling for advice, I came to this survey site and read all the comments.

My experience with Volvo S40 is not pleasant. It gave me problems like some people mentioned here. Engine stalling on driving was the most dangerous to me. It stalled on motorway at 65 m/h or approaching roundabout at 30 m/h. Of course, it did not start for a number times which embarrassed me while with friends sitting in the car.

It is even bad when I go to the dealership garage for checking, servicing and fixing. Very expensive on parts and labour. It was so frequent to see them, that I lost trust to a dealership garage and started to visiting different ones nearby. However, they were all the same at last.

As one said in the comments here, I am ashamed to sell this car on to known people and the trade-in price is so low. That's why I have to keep it.

We have got Mercedes for the 2nd car. When the S40 comes to it's end, the replacement would be no Volvo for sure.

I recently advised a Volvo S40 Turbo to my dad. It fit all his needs for the right money! Aside from the paint falling off at the front fender's bottom and now the headlight out, it's been a good car at 180 k. I do feel bad for all that show over wear on brakes and other computer/solenoid/valving cold start problems. I guess this is typical Ford problems on a Volvo! They did buy that brand and good job screwing it up! I'm not sure I regret this Volvo yet. If only I could find a solution to the popping left headlight bulb, I can handle the brake pads and paint chips! I'd be willing to bet they kept the body and transmission and went real cheap on the electronics, and now we all pay for it! One thing is true, I will not buy Ford or such related crap on wheels. Yes, that goes for the recent BMW also. It seems "have you driven a Ford lately" is a joke, if only you could get them to run long enough to drive.. Back to Toyota I GO!

I purchased my 2005 S40 Volvo in 2005 with 8,000 miles on it. I was told it was a safe car and not expensive to keep up, since it now has Ford parts. I was also told that maintenance would be twice a year, and that you could not do anything to harm a Volvo engine. It simply would not let you!

I am a single working woman who needs a dependable car with a dealership that I can trust. This is not true with Volvo! My engine blew! Of course the warranty over on the car. I have 60,000 miles on it!

Volvo dealership and Corp. were both mean about all of this. They were both very rude and place the blame on someone else! I live in an area where there are no Volvo dealerships. I live in Morgantown, WV and I purchased the car in PA. When I called the dealership about my problem, they first said that the car was out of warranty and there was nothing they could do about it. After several attempts, I was told that I needed to have the car towed to them, but they still did not think they could do anything.

A week later I find out that I still have Volvo roadside assistance, and I called them back to ask why I was not told this, and they denied that I had it! I told them that I called roadside assistance and they said yes, I do have it and the car is being picked up as we speak and on it way to the dealership. They responded my saying, "All of the information is in your handbook in your glove box". I told them that it is also in your computer, and you saw fit to tell me about all of my other services and/or things I supposedly did not do. They even told me since I did not do all of my services with them, it is my fault that I am having trouble.

When they finally got the car and checked it over, they said that my problem was because of lack of oil. They accused someone of charging me for the service but not doing the job. I am so disappointed in Volvo, they lack integrity.

For those who can't figure out the vibrations -- check your engine mounts. Our 2000 Volvo S40 was vibrating/shaking for almost a year until we finally figured out one of the engine mounts had gone. We got that fixed and now it runs as smoothly as ever.

My fuel pressure regulator cause my car to take a long cranking. It also smelled like fuel because the car was cranking so long before it started. My husband purchased the part and put it on in 15 minutes. The dealer wanted 150.00 to put it on. What a rip off.

Volvo S40 2003.

I am having the similar problem that one of the Volvo owners is having. When I start car up most of the time, just in the morning or the first time I use it that day, I have to step on the gas, put it in drive at the same time, or it will stall. Got it fixed once - I was told he made a adjustment? It didn't happen for about a month, then I went back where I got it fixed and it didn't happen to him. He explained if the check engine light is not on, he can't figure out the problem.

Now that the weather is warmer, it doesn't happen. I would think soon as it gets cooler, the problem will start again. Any ideas?

I recently bought a 2000 S40 about 4 months ago, and it has been constantly in and out of the dealer.

The car has engine misfire issues; first they replaced spark plugs, then coils and spark plug wires, then boost pressure sensor, then the atmospheric pressure sensor, and dealer still can't diagnose problem, but now they are telling me it is the fuel injection computer. Has anyone had similar issues or know where on the vehicle fuel injection computer is located? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

I bought my 2000 Volvo S40 3 years ago at 126k. It is now around 140k and after reading everyone's complaints I am realizing how much money I have put into my car over the past years.

I've twice had to change the ignition coil.

My radiator busted.

Either the a-frame or the ball joints had to be replaced ($800-900).

The massive air flow sensor had to be changed... and the day that was fixed the diagnostic came back with another code because my coolant fan now runs when I shut the engine off for no reason, draining my battery. The temperature gauge is normal. I am on day 7 right now of my car being in the shop for that problem. They tell me that it's a computer problem and would be around $200-500 to fix it. Now they are telling me if I have to get a dealer part it'll cost over $1000.

I think at this point the money I've put in on repairs is at least 1/3 of what I bought it for.

I bought this car for the safety features that I assumed it would have. Apparently the newer versions are completely different from the older ones! I didn't even know that Ford owns the company now until I read some of the other comments. If that's so then why the heck am I paying for Volvo parts at Volvo prices!! Why are we not paying Ford prices. I am very upset seeing as to how I just finished paying on this car and do not want to have to go out and get another car, another loan.

If you have had the same problems with the coolant fan running unnecessarily and have found out what the problem is, please email me at:

Bizeb009-at-gmail-dot-com (NO SPAM PLEASE)

Commenting on the Volvo S-40, 2000 vibrating. I did have my motor mounts and bushings replaced. Seems to help, but from my license plate to my steering wheel, the car vibrates, especially when cold, but is smoother when going 15mph or more. I currently have 119k miles and went through my large repair for the drive train belt and tune up also. The dealership says the age of the car and wear are showing up. Any other ideas out there to get rid of this vibrating?

Otherwise a nice winter car. Comfortable. Good starter. Please e-mail if any answers at skoleson@sbcglobal.net