11th Jul 2009, 15:20
I recently bought a 2000 S40 about 4 months ago, and it has been constantly in and out of the dealer.
The car has engine misfire issues; first they replaced spark plugs, then coils and spark plug wires, then boost pressure sensor, then the atmospheric pressure sensor, and dealer still can't diagnose problem, but now they are telling me it is the fuel injection computer. Has anyone had similar issues or know where on the vehicle fuel injection computer is located? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
19th Aug 2009, 15:35
I bought my 2000 Volvo S40 3 years ago at 126k. It is now around 140k and after reading everyone's complaints I am realizing how much money I have put into my car over the past years.
I've twice had to change the ignition coil.
My radiator busted.
Either the a-frame or the ball joints had to be replaced ($800-900).
The massive air flow sensor had to be changed... and the day that was fixed the diagnostic came back with another code because my coolant fan now runs when I shut the engine off for no reason, draining my battery. The temperature gauge is normal. I am on day 7 right now of my car being in the shop for that problem. They tell me that it's a computer problem and would be around $200-500 to fix it. Now they are telling me if I have to get a dealer part it'll cost over $1000.
I think at this point the money I've put in on repairs is at least 1/3 of what I bought it for.
I bought this car for the safety features that I assumed it would have. Apparently the newer versions are completely different from the older ones! I didn't even know that Ford owns the company now until I read some of the other comments. If that's so then why the heck am I paying for Volvo parts at Volvo prices!! Why are we not paying Ford prices. I am very upset seeing as to how I just finished paying on this car and do not want to have to go out and get another car, another loan.
If you have had the same problems with the coolant fan running unnecessarily and have found out what the problem is, please email me at:
Bizeb009-at-gmail-dot-com (NO SPAM PLEASE)
12th Oct 2009, 20:32
Commenting on the Volvo S-40, 2000 vibrating. I did have my motor mounts and bushings replaced. Seems to help, but from my license plate to my steering wheel, the car vibrates, especially when cold, but is smoother when going 15mph or more. I currently have 119k miles and went through my large repair for the drive train belt and tune up also. The dealership says the age of the car and wear are showing up. Any other ideas out there to get rid of this vibrating?
Otherwise a nice winter car. Comfortable. Good starter. Please e-mail if any answers at email@example.com
8th Dec 2009, 17:06
We have a 2000 Volvo S40 and have had a lot of trouble. Now it seems as if it won't idle, if you keep it revved up it will run, but it won't idle. Has anyone else had this problem and how did you fix it?
I thought maybe there might be water in the tank as it just happened after I filled up.. Any suggestions would be most appreciated... Ger.
20th Dec 2009, 04:12
I have a 2000 Volvo S40 with around 11500 miles. I have a suspicion that the overdrive is not working. The rpm's at 65 mph are around 2800 and I can't feel it shift into the extra gear. What needs to be replaced to fix this problem, and is it OK to drive without the overdrive? Thank you.
7th Jan 2010, 07:11
To who ever has starting problem with their Volvo S40 2000-2003 (cranking too long), change the fuel regulator (it's next to throttle body) (I tried everything, and when I changed mine, it fixed it right away). Now another problem came out, it's like a chain reaction with that car. I had my Volvo S40 for 5 years, and I replaced near half of the car. I could have bought new car for that money. My best advice is to get rid of your car once and for all, and buy Honda or Toyota, or if you like having a headache and wasting your hard earned money, buy American made junk. Good luck.
14th May 2011, 09:08
Yes, I have had the same issues. I have a 2000 Volvo S40. What I had to replace was the fuel pressure regulator. It's right there where your IAC was under the plastic cover on the front right hand side of the engine, being held down by two bolts. Very easy to replace. Took me about 25 minutes in total.