Comments: 1-15, 16-17
A week after buying the car, the battery died.
The switch for the headlights and high beams broke immediately after I bought the car.
The idle speed will randomly drop very low and the car shakes like it's about to stall, but pulls out of this after several seconds.
The car seems to handle well and have a nice overall ride.
The problems that I had within a couple weeks of buying the car make me nervous.
I have the same problem with my 626. The rough idle part... It has cost me 500.00 and still is in the shop.
Did you fix yours?
Email me mikebueche@hotmail.com.
Thanks.
I have the *exact* same idle problem on my 1996 Mazda 626 LX (2.0 liter, 4 cylinder.) The problem did not appear until I had my timing belt changed at about 95,000 miles - then it appeared suddenly. Car will randomly idle low at stop lights, car almost stalls, then engine surges back up to normal idle speed. Happens every few seconds at stoplights. Whole car body vibrates during this behavior.
No idea what could be causing it - mechanic failed to fix it after taking it back twice.
My 1997 626 2.0 had the rough idle it turned out to be the idle air control valve. After pricing it at over $400 I said no. I found out that you could remove the solinoid from the top remove the spring and clean all of the carbon out of it. It solved the rough idle concern. Hope this helps.
Mazda 1994 2.0 L.
My 94 mazda 626 was stalling out when the clutch was pushed in and going down past low idle when it was hot and based on the comments I saw here, determined it must have something to do with the idle control valve. I took it apart to clean it and saw that the spring under the solenoid was completely out of position. I reassembled it properly and voila! it didn't cost me a cent and idles perfectly again.
Thanks guys for the hints.
I am having the same problem with my car. I wanted to know if anyone has any pictures showing how to clean the idle air control valve. I do not want to break any thing on my car and am not sure how to take it apart. Any information on this will be helpful. Please e-mail me at billy_21915@mybluelight.com.
I also have this idle air control valve problem with my 1995 Mazda 626 2.0L. I took the solenoid off, and out dropped 3 parts: a large spring, a small spring, and a red plastic tube with one end recessed. So, I cleaned everything, and guessed how to put it back together. Now, the engine idles at about 2000 RPM. Obviously way too high. Anyone know the correct order these 3 parts go in when reassembling the valve? Obviously the springs go on each side of the red plastic tube, but which goes down in the IAC and which goes up in the solenoid?
I have the same problem with my 99 Mazda 626 (automatic). At stop light the car idle between 500-800 and sometimes start stalling before the ECU catch up. Someone told me it's a problem with the Fuel pump, but I have that checked out and it looks fine. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. E-mail: agomes_umd@yahoo.com.
I too have had the same problems with my car and the Idle Air Control Valve. However, what began as rough idling at stop lights has now progressed to my car "sputtering/jumping" at highway speeds! This only began after I cleaned the IAC valve. Anyone have the same problem or have any suggestions?
My '93 626 has the same idling problem. It jerks whenever I stop at the stop signs. And I recently got the timing belt changed.. (65000 miles)...cleaning the fuel injection system didn't help and mechanic can't diagnose the problem. Any comments from anyone who got the problem fixed? please mail ssg24@cornell.edu. Thanks!
I have a similar problem with my 94 626. After I replaced teh battery, the car started idling very low and stalling. It has even stalled when while coasting (to stop or slowing down).
I just bought a 1995 Mazda Lx 626 2.0 and I am having the rough idle problem will idle fine in park, but when I put it in gear the idle drops down and the car will stall or it will shake and miss and the go to normal idle I have been told this may be a idle control valve problem, if so does anybody know where they are located and how do you clean them thanks for any help you can offer e mail me at ready25926@yahoo.com.
Concerning the idle control valve on the 1995 2.0 Mazda 626 I think the the correct way to put the idle control valve back together is.. there is a small spring a large spring and a plastic part, the plastic part with the recessed end put that in the little spring put that into the idle control valve looking inside it you can see that it fits in the cavity then put the large spring into place you can see at the end of the spring where the metal part goes on the is a space for the little spring to the best of my knowledge this is how it fits back together. ready25926@yahoo.com.
Hi.
I had the same problem when my mechanic changed the time belt, it so happened that the mechanic had connected the wrong wire which was causing that. I don't know the name of the wire I will find and let you know.
I own a 98 626 LX 2.0L 4cyl. automatic. I have the same idle problem as well and replaced the transmission ($2300) at 93000 miles. I think I will need to replace the cooling part of the transmission due to an occasional flashing OD light, highway driving, and transmission fluid coming out from over-flow vent (too hot?). I understand there is a repair kit for this. I also have the idle problem and will look into the idle air control valve cleaning process (thanks for the hints). My battery died a few months after I bought the car used at 42000 miles approx.. I heard there is a test that can be done to check for an extra electrical drain on the battery while the car is off/parked and the usual electrical currents are taken into account (ie. clock, dome lights, etc..). I think the original battery was dying and once I replaced it with a new one I haven't needed another.
I have a 1993 Mazda 626 DX 2.0 with Manual Trans.; when I'm on my way to stop the car and change from gear to Neutral the engine idle goes up and down and when the car stops completely then it goes way up to 2000 RPM.
Does anyone knows what could be causing this or if it's just a matter of cleaning some idle valve or sensor to fix this?