1999 Dodge Durango SLT from North America - Comments

OK. '99 dodge durango 5.9...YEP! Shuts off during driving while it's hot here in Bakersfield, it's been over a hundred every time it's happened. And has kept happening. Luckily I have a cool sis who found this site and sent it to me. The PCM ay, I will get right on that. I have a 2 1/2 year old son who was actually scared one time when it stalled TWICE just driving a few blocks. He said he wanted out and was almost crying. He had an idea this wasn't supposed to happen. Thanx EVERYONE for the advice. I will report back here for sure when I have done the deed.

JDawgSVN@aol.com.

Update to my June 16, 2008 comment. I found the PCM on Ebay for $199. Changed it, and have not had a problem since. Thanks to everyone here for their comments and help.

I just had the stall while driving situation... all instrumentation quit, engine stalled and NO BUS showed on odometer of my 99 Ram 1500 Van. Never happened before.

I am amazed at all the "guesses" going on between neighbors, mechanic wannabes, real shop mechanics and dealerships. It was instrument cluster, almost every relay, every part of every brain box or computer, wiring, bad ground, high resistance and a whole lot more. No "guess" was cheap, either!

The dealership said they found no computer readings, so it had to be the ECM and the PCM, and a few modules, switches, relays and a bit of wiring repair and replacement. Total cost $1446.63 and about 3 weeks for parts to come in. I searched the web and found a lot available and found this to be a regular occurrence. Shame on you, Chrysler!

But if it helps anyone else in my predicament, I will tell you what I found out and how I fixed it. While I was checking for ground faults and fusible link problems, I opened the relay box next to the battery on the driver's side under the hood. Inside are a lot of relays and large fuses and such. There are also two very small spade fuses, 10amp and 20amp. Since I was checking everything, I pulled each one. The 10amp is for the Oxygen Sensor and it was fine. The other 20amp fuse was for something called the ASD. It WAS blown. The ASD is the Auto Shut Down system, which cuts all fuel to the engine and power to the ignition and spark. This stops the engine from "dieseling" or sputtering after you turn off the key. I changed the fuse (Cost = $1.97 for small assortment with plastic pulling tweezers) and the engine started right up and purrs like a kitten again.

Today was exceptionally hot (92 degrees) and the Ram engine always seems to pump out a ton of heat! I am sure the heat had contributed to the problem. I am now keeping a few extra fuses in my glove box just for safe keeping.

Be sure to check ALL the small stuff before investing a ton of loot on the expensive stuff that the mechanics and dealers want to "try" to fix it. I had just finished a 50 minute ride on the highway at 65 mph when the van stalled on a side road near my home in a 15mph zone. I can't help but wonder what would have happened or what I would have done if the engine just quit at high speed and I lost all power to steering or brakes! I feel sorry for those of you have been in that situation.

I love my Ram and have been a Chrysler man all my life. Love the vehicles, but Chrysler should step up and work to fix these problems and protect their customers. Maybe a class action suit is in order to generate a wake up call for the folks at Chrysler! Enjoy your vehicle, be safe and I hope my findings are a help to others.

TO ALL "STALLING" PROBLEMS MOST HELPFUL INFO SO FAR:

I have read thru like a million pages of these complaints about the stalling and no bus problems with these durangos and whatever other vehicles. The best piece of information I got (since I have had the same problems AND Replaced the PCM last year only to have a mechanic tell me again this year it needs to be replaced) was posted on this site on APRIL 15TH 2008 and the guy followed up with a post in May after he got his problem fixed.

CALL THIS # to DODGE ENGINE CONTROL UNITS

1-800-685-1925.

I spoke with a George at extension 110 who seemed to know exactly what I was talking about when I explained my problems with replacing the PCM last year and having some idle issues this year. I think in general the previous comments have been about the same problem with a few slight exceptions. George told me that due to my idle issues it sounded like I should replace the Idle Speed Control Motor Actuator (which he says should have been replaced at the same time with the PCM last year). He was VERY knowledgable and gave me a few things to make sure I told the dealer about since they are "diagnosing" it right now. He gave me a repair price if the PCM can be repaired and a VERY decent replacement price if it can't. Last year I spent about $1200 on replacing the PCM and according to George I can replace one through him at about $395!! And hopefully from the sound of his expert advice I won't have this problem anymore!!! Cause like most of the other commentors I LOVE the Durango and don't want to have to get rid of it.

HOPE THIS HELPS SOMEONE ELSE, Will post update after issue is "fixed"

Feel free to email me about your issues and I will help if I can, I have been researching this problem like a madwoman:

Wredheadgirl@yahoo.com.

Sincerely,

Fellow Durango owner Beth.

Another 99 SLT owner. Having similar stalling, but short-lived before the car wouldn't run at all. Mine rumbled at stops as if trying to stall, but then drove OK. After parking it was sluggish upon starting as if the battery was dying. When it started it just as quickly shut down, however, all my gauges work, no check engine light goes on, and I haven't seen nor do I understand the NO BUS everyone is speaking of.

I'm replacing the battery tonight to see if I can at least get it to start to diagnose other possibilities. I jumped it the other day and it would only start and shut-off over and over. After disconnecting the jumper cables, it wouldn't start at all.

I'd sell it once I get it running, but I'm saddled with this albatross. I've replaced the engine. Note: Heed the warnings - my oil light turned off and on even though a check of oil was fine and the car ran well. I blew my engine 1/2 way into Utah in the middle of nowhere.

Also, my transmission refuses to shift in cold weather until it warms up, and then intermittently, and it has started to do it even in summer.

The stereo decides when it wants to work and the driver window gets stuck.

I'd junk it if I didn't need it. I'll never buy another Dodge because they don't back-up their product, they just stick it to you for repairs.

2000 Durango 5.9, cop engine, cop transmission, cop wheels... (blues brothers) Started having No Bus problem when it got really hot here in Colorado. New $200 refurb ECU from www.allcomputerresources.com and vehicle is back on the road. If you return your ECU with their prepaid return postage they give you a Lifetime warranty. This is really a do it yourself problem. Get mileage reading, disconnect battery, unplug 3 easy to get at connectors (left side of engine compartment out side of air box on the fender), remove 3 8mm screws to remove ECU, get your VIN, call 1-866-699-5230 and give them the info they ask for, pay 200, wait a couple days (+$40 for overnight), mount and connect ECU, hook up the battery, start the thing and haul ass. These guys are on ebay with 100% feedback too, I highly recommend them, service was great and I had new ECU in two days! They kick ass. PS As noted by a few others it is highly possible that the IAC took out the ECU. If you are getting No Bus (turn key on and wait a minute and it will display in the mileage window) you will definitely need a new/refurb ECU. You should also test the IAC as noted in a tech bulletin that has been posted within this thread, not necessarily a do it yourself task.

I, too, own a '99 Durango that I bought new. I've never experienced the stalling problem, but I certainly sympathize with those that have.

We are amazing! We replaced a distributor that had $2.00 points that required cleaning every two years or so with a thousand dollar computer. Remember when an engine needed only air, fuel and spark to run? And all three requirements could be checked in two minutes (and you didn't need a "scanner")?