I recently purchased a used 1999 Mustang GT. Standard 4.6 sohc, 5 speed hardtop. It seems to run well overall with 46,000 on the clock. It has developed a stalling problem. It runs fine when cold, but midway through the day I leave for lunch and it won't idle. If I heel and toe it for a few miles and it eventually clears up. I was thinking that maybe it's a problem with the computer since the previous owner had the chip reflashed by Saleen? the only other engine mods are the 70mm throttle body and a K&N air filter. Does anyone have a fix for this?--john @ bubblehead75@hotmail.com.
I have a 1999 GT (Limited Edition) with 44,000 miles. it is a great car, I have experienced the stalling problem, but rarely. Overall, it been a joy to own.
I have the 2000 GT. I have the stalling problem only when the car is cold. It has died on me within a mile of startup about 4 times. It has 47000 miles. I've had no other "problems" yet. Also I think the last couple of people are right, you just need to let it breathe more -- get the K&N air filter immediately, it's only $50 and you end up saving because you clean it yourself (very easy) and it gives you about 4 hp. Beyond that, the larger throttle body and a cold air intake should solve the cold start problem, which is very common on the 4.6L's. I think changing the throttle body would require some additional mods like reprogramming the computer and maybe a new mass air sensor.
I have a 1999 Mustang 5 speed and have had problems for about a year with the gear grinding, but only when going into 5th gear. I also have a problem with the whining on the exhaust. What's the deal??
I know the original comment was posted quite a while ago, but if anyone is still interested, I have experienced and solved a stalling problem. The problem with my '98 Mustang GT was with the mass air flow sensor, which is connected to the metal housing just aft of the air cleaner housing. My GT was in several times for the problem, but, as it would occur randomly (and never when I could get in to have it serviced), it continually went undiagnosed. Also, several computer diagnostic tests couldn't pick it up. Only when I finally brought it creeping into the dealer at 10 miles per hour and hazard lights flashing did they finally get that I wasn't just exaggerating a small issue.
In discussing the history of the car with friends and mechanics, I always say that the best thing I ever bought from a Ford dealer was an extended warranty (75,000 Premium Care bumper to bumper... as I write this my sticky throttle is being covered by the warranty at the local dealer).
As for the guy who claims that the problem lies with those who cannot drive manual transmissions, I think that comments such as yours are utterly uninformative and the result of someone who talks cars, but doesn't know cars at all. My family has been driving Fords since the late 1920s, but I think this idiotic brand devotion causes more problems than it solves.
I don't know what you all are talking about, I have never had a stalling problem or any problem with my 99 cobra, I run it hard and havnt been beat yet on the road, most back down when they hear it. I have about $2k in aftermarket, but even before that I had not one problem. This is my 4th stang and my fav. the first 3 being an '82, '86 and '98 GT's. Keep doing what you have been Ford. And for the guy saying they should have kept the 302???, trust me, Ford knew what they were doing. I've owned 2 5.0's. Even my paxton supercharged '86 would have just seen tail lights of my cobra... then just tire smoke!!!
I want a 1999 or 1998 Mustang GT. It's and automatic. I need comments on if I should get it or not. It seems like a lot of y'all have problems with the stick shift. Please help me.
You don't want a 96-98 GT. They only have 225 horsepower. They are slower than molasses in January. I owned a 96 automatic and I used to get roasted. I traded it in and got a more powerful 260 horse 2000 which has the same engine as a '99. I was very satisfied with the performance.
I have a 99 GT with 27,000 original miles. I recently noticed a howling sound in the rear-end. I took it to the dealer and was told the bearings and gears were worn. $1500 later it works fine. I can only assume that it was assembled incorrectly at the factory. Anyone else had this problem?
I have a 1999 GT 5speed, but it has 130,000 miles on it how long should these things last?
To all whom experienced the stalling problem. I have some simple solutions to help solve the problem before you spend big bucks on the dealership fixing a 10 minute job try these tips.
#1 Check your air filter and see if it needs to be replaced or cleaned if it is a K&N filter.
#2 Next check your Mass Air Flow Meter to see if it has any carbon build up. If so, then use some carburetor cleaner and clean it out. Make sure you don't spray the electrical plug on this meter or you will ruin the sensor. After letting the carburetor cleaner sit on the part for about ten minute go ahead and rinse it off with slow running warm to hot water. Make sure that when you rinse this part you don't get the electrical plug wet because you will ruin the sensor. Then take a rag and wipe it down until it is completely dry. Now your ready to reinstall this part back on the car.
#3 Then check your Idle Air Control Valve (IAC Valve) to see if there is any carbon build up. If so, just buy a new one from your trusted auto parts store. There is a small mesh screen on the inside that you won't be able to reach and it is more than likely clogged with carbon. Plus half of this part is an electric motor running the cylinder part on the inside and you might risk burning the motor out if it gets wet. The IAC Valve can range any where from $42.00-$55.00. Install the new part.
#4 Finally check your Throttle Body for carbon build up. If you have carbon build up in your IAC Valve then you will have it in your Throttle Body. Take some carburetor cleaner and spay the inside of the Throttle Body and make sure you spray the flap real good. In case your wondering the flap is what opens and shuts in the throttle body that kind of looks like a lid. After letting the carburetor cleaner sit on the part for about ten minute go ahead and rinse it off with slow running warm to hot water. Then take a rag and wipe it down until it is completely dry. Now your ready to reinstall this part back on the car.
If you follow these steps then you will resolve all your stalling problems. Don't make the mistake of just cleaning or replacing just one of this parts without checking all the other parts as well or you will still have problems. Do yourself a favor and follow my steps 1-4 in the order I have explained above and you will be a much happier camper. Let me know your results when completed. Thanks.
Check the IAC, that's the most common cause. You can clean it with brake cleaner.
http://www.moddedmustangs.com/ for more help.
To the guy who was thinking about buying the 1999 GT. Yeah, I think you should go for it because I was in the same situation, I got a black convertible V8 GT and it has 89,xxx Miles on it and it still runs strong. I never had any problems with the car. As of performance, the 1999 GT's are faster than the older ones and faster then the ones up to 2004 (Same as 2000 GT). The car looks very attractive too, I get so many complements everywhere I go. All you have to do to the car is change a few things to make it look like a 2004. I changed the lights and I'm going to change the hood. But the car being stock I think I can pull from 0-60mph in 5.4 seconds stock and 1/4miles in 14.00s. Yeah if you have anymore questions ask me because I learned how to drive stick in this vehicle and to me this is the fastest car you can get for what it will cost you.
I have the 2000 gt recently the green light appears and the vehicle stalls as if the gas is shutting down. Need help assessing the problem I was told by a mechanic that the trash sensor maybe bad. Any help or comments is appreciated.
I've driven my Chrome Yellow '99 GT since March '99 (93,000 miles worth)...love the car. Runs like a scalded ape and gets 25 mpg on the road commuting. Never had the stalling problem... Henry and the dealer fixed a set of rear-end carrier bearings that went out right after warranty, and I've replaced a front end drag link... other than that, a K&N air filter regularly serviced, 6,000 mile oil and filter changes with Mobil 1 10W30 and DRIVE IT! Still sounds good, turns heads and gets compliments.
Dan
Stillwater, OK.