8th Oct 2007, 15:23

I purchased a 2000 Audi A6 2.7T used six years ago at 18k miles. Under warranty the air flow mass sensor was replaced which cleared up a number of problems early on. I've had problems with the front brake rotors warping (I'm very easy on the brakes) and the aux water pump failing at 65k. I had the timing belt done at 65k. It now has 118k on it. I had the ABS unit removed and rebuilt two years ago. I've gone through several CV joint boots. I put H&R coil-overs on the car early on and lowered it about an inch. Because of this I'm on my third skid pan, but it handles much better. Also the Michelin Pilots I got last year somehow got rid of 80% of the under-steer the car exhibited. Go figure! I haven't put in a dime in it in two years and now am having the brakes rebuilt again and replacing another CV joint boot. I live in Denver, which means lots of snow, cold and gravel on the road. By the way, the best way to get 26-30mpg on the highway is to set the cruise control and not touch it at all for long periods of time. The ECU seems to learn what's going on and I've been able to get 400-450 miles to a tank of gas. When it had 20k on it, an Audi mechanic told me it would run better with the mid-grade fuel so that's all it's had for the past 100k miles and it starts up immediately and runs fine in the coldest and warmest of weather.

14th Jan 2008, 16:14

I have a 1997 BMW 740il with 140,000 miles on it, and I want something new, so I was looking around for a car, and I found an A6 2.7 with 160,000. He is looking to do a straight trade for the car I am very interested in it, but I'm not sure if I should make the trade. I was reading the comments and there are a lot of mixed reviews. I love my 740 but I'm tired of the insane amount of money I spend on gas, but with all the reviews I have been reading it seems the the BMW may be built better? Any advice would be appreciated.

18th Apr 2008, 18:08

I'm having the same engine light issues. Just moved to California and can't get a smog check because if the light is on it's an automatic failure. Taking my car to CarMax to give me a estimate on repairs... letting them think I'm selling the car, but just want an honest opinion on the cost of repairing the vehicle. Thought about maintaining it, after reading the reviews I'm not so sure.

Took the car to the Audi dealership at 98k miles, blinkers no longer worked. Tried to replace the fuses on our own, didn't work. Ended up being the hazard light converter (or something like that) that failed and had it replaced $300 later. Audi also gave me a laundry list of repairs, similar those already posted. The O2 sensors and the front left axle needs repairing... something like $2000 was the quote of repairs.

Worried that this car is going to cost me more than I can afford.

30th Aug 2008, 22:07

I own a 2003 2.7t 6 spd sports suspension etc. Purchased new and currently with 127M miles. The car has been rock solid. Still on the original transmission and clutch with hard city/highway driving.

Yes there have been some maintenance items, and I have it serviced primarily at a reputable local independent. Nothing beyond normal or expected. No nagging check engine light issues that others seem to have observed.

My engine just seems to get better and better, both stronger and smoother in my very subjective opinion. I replace the oil every 4000 to 6000 miles with mobil 1. It averages 21 mpg on premium. I have no plan to replace it any time soon.

13th Feb 2009, 18:52

I have a 2000 A6 2.7t.

My check engine light came on, it was stuttering when it started, and the air bag light came on so I took it in.

The stutter was fixed by replacing an O2 sensor, and the engine light is for the torque converter going out. Still drives, but if the converter goes out, I'm looking at 2500 dollars.

The airbag light is from the computer system on it pretty much going brain dead. 800 to fix it, but it's not hurting anything. They say airbag should still work.

Love my car. I would buy another one. Lots of miles means problems. Even Honda's, Toyota's, and other major manufacturers have problems. Have any of you considered lack of maintenance. They say have the whole car gone through every 30k miles or so. Full lube and everything. Big name car means big money for simple fixes. Should have bought a Honda if you didn't like the prices.

21st Mar 2009, 19:52

Hello all, I own a 2000 A6 2.7L Bi-Turbo. Bought the car with 79k miles, and it now has 85k miles.

In the past 6 months, I have replaced all 4 tires ($600), Custom cat-back ($450), numerous HID conversions (for some reason the ballasts keep going out on the driver side headlight), and I just recently hit a pot hole in Boston that did about $3800 worth of damage...

I will eventually be changing the timing belt, doing a tune up, clutch is going to need to be done soon, I do need to replace the window switch on the driver side (window locks stopped working, so my rear seated passengers can't put the windows down).

Both my drivers side, and passengers side window motors are going, so... I am pretty much stuck with this car, my wife refuses to trade it in, because we owe a lot more on the car than what it's worth, so I am stuck fixing it...

Oh well, it's my own mistake, I, as another person on this forum, was blind sided by the awesome power, ride, and overall appeal of this vehicle. I love it, don't get me wrong, but it's almost as big of a money pit as my prior vehicle, a 95 Jeep Wrangler, which I built for a daily driver/weekend trail rig (had $25k invested in that, and had it for 5 years - probably going to hit $25k invested with this Audi, and I've had it for 6 months...)

By the way, if you guys didn't know what JEEP stands for, here's an idea of what it could mean "JEEP: Just Empty Every Pocket"


10th Jun 2009, 18:01

I own a 2000 Audi A6 2.7T Quattro. I have had an annoying issue with my secondary air pump but have finally fixed it. Then the 02 sensors started to malfunction. Then there was a code stating that the secondary injection was "too low". I did some research and found that the hoses on the comvy valves had cracked slightly. This caused the check engine light to come on. Before replacing the catalytic converters try dragging a fine tooth comb through your hoses. Mine was looking to be a $1,000 fix but instead cost me $4.78. NICE. Good luck!

24th Jul 2009, 01:41

I just bought a 2000 Audi A6 quattro 2.7T; it had a check engine that never go away. I replaced, the right axle, the two upper control arms and put new breaks in the car. Ever since then the ABS breaks as well as the check engine light came up. The engine code is p074. Does any know what else I can do to fix this issue so that it can pass inspection? I am looking for an owner's manual for the car, and the dealer does not have one. Any idea to fix it?