I had the same symptoms with my 95 Riv SC, and it turned out to be the coil packs; all three.
We have a 1997 Buick Riviera Super Charged dressed in pearl white, fully loaded. The car would stutter and lunge and feel like it had no power.
After replacing oxygen sensors, MAF sensor, checking coil packs (they were O.K) replacing fuel filter etc. etc, we checked the MAF sensor again by unplugging it and she ran like a top.
The MAF sensor we originally replaced was faulty and had it replaced with another one at no charge. Drives as smooth as butter once again.
Love my Riviera, wouldn't trade it for anything!!!
I have a 95 Riviera with a knock in the motor, we are considering replacing the motor, but we won't be able to if the motor and transaxel have to come out together from the bottom. Can anyone tell me if the engine can be pulled from the top? Thanks,
My 95 Riviera is the best Riviera in the streets.
A lot of work, but worth it all, very fast!
When driving, the car will just cut off. Very dangerous on i-95, have to pull over. Also have to press the gas pedal when starting. It cuts off when it feels like it. Any suggestions, firstname.lastname@example.org.
Would love to hear from someone who has had this problem. I'm scared to drive, can't afford to fix it, lost my job.
The car is good on gas. Paid $2200 from nice lady, 79,000 miles when bought, now 88,000, love this car. Sometimes I consider giving to someone who could fix and enjoy it. I'm very sad.
I have a 1996 Buck Riv. Supercharged. It cuts off in the rain, but if I let it sit for a few days, it starts right up. Now, it cuts off no matter what the weather is like, hot or cold. However, it will start back up after a minute or two sitting. Crank sensor and fuel pump was replaced. I heard something about a cam sensor. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
We bought a 95 Riviera for our 16 year old son to drive. It is a sweet car, but we have had some problems. Most recently the brakes went out completely while he was driving. A bit scary, but he handled it well. I have changed the master cylinder and bled all 4 brakes (myself). Still not getting any pressure and the pedal goes right to the floor. Do not want to spend much more $ on this car, but willing to. If anyone else has had this problem, please email me email@example.com
My husband is desperately trying to change the water pump on our 95 Buick Riviera... he is desperate because I am without my vehicle until he figures it out.
He has discovered that he needs to get the alternator/power steering bracket off, but can't get the last bolt out because it is behind the heater hose bib... any suggestions?
Try a swivel head socket. You can pick up a set from your local Sears or Harbor Freight.
I also have a Buick Riviera 95. I got it last year. I'm not going to lie, the pieces are a bit expensive, but the car is worth it. Mine looks like new with all original parts and all. The owner before me kept it beautiful, the paint still original from factory. I love my car. My brakes did go out. I live in Miami and the car made it to Bonita beach in Naples with not even a two lines from full on the gas tank. The supercharge part of it I love! It's a real classy car. I love my baby! My husband laughs at me at how much I love my car.
I have a 1995 Rivi, supercharged, bought with 106,000 miles, now has 128,000 miles.
I have had a few worn out parts including a perforated brake line, and a seized AC compressor.
The brake line issue is apparently caused by a spot in the line, which is exposed to abrasion by road grit thrown up by your tires. The AC pump seized because I park the car for the winter and did not run the AC or defroster every 3 or 4 weeks, apparently not an unusual cause of failure.
The toughest problems I have had relate to a gradually failing computer. In sequence, the problems gradually grew like this over a period of many months.
First, check engine light comes on, car runs fine.
Then the dashboard gear indicator and outside temp gauge start to flash, then work fine.
Then the gear indicator intermittently freezes, and at the same time the engine temp gauge goes to zero.
Then the motor starts to stall without warning, then runs fine for a while.
Finally, the car stalls so badly it is undrivable.
When I replaced the computer, everything works perfectly. I suspect a lot of the so-called electrical problems Riv owners report are actually symptoms of a gradually failing computer. These cars a still a good value in spite of this.
Hello everyone! I just bought my 95 Riviera with only 62,000 miles on it. I drove it from Nashville to Evansville during this past holiday (Christmas). Everything is original, and it was owned by a older couple who took GREAT care of it (she looks and drives like a new car).
I am concerned that the buttons on the steering wheel, controlling the temperature and radio volume, are not working properly. It worked just fine last week when I bought it, and they still do, but for some reason the button labeled "volume" now controls the temperature, and the button labeled "temperature" now controls the volume on the radio. If anyone has any information concerning this fault, please comment.
Thank you, and happy New Year!
I have a Buick Riviera 1995. The battery is underneath the back seat. Sometimes these cars will just turn off on you. I paid $700.00 for a starter and fuel pump, and it still did not start. I got ripped off big time by these people, and all it was, was the battery underneath the seat was loose. Also the transmission has a tendency to go out on you.
I have a Buick Riveria 1995, and mine does the same thing, and my brother discovered the battery underneath the back seat was loose, and after he tightened it, I took it to a place and had it re-tightened, and it hasn't cut off since.
I also bought a 1995 supercharged model and it has 160,000. I paid 1100.00 for it and it was mint condition (almost).
I drove it home and blew a rod through her, put a used motor in it, 145k, fuel pump quit and replaced and now it doesn't have power. 1 day later it died again, no pressure. Any suggestions? Supercharged went out the same day along with harmonic balancer!
Now I'm stumped of what to do!
Mine made a noise after shutting it off too. It turned out the rear air shocks were leaking and the air pump was running. I unhooked the rod attached to the level switch, which stopped the pump from running. When I got home, I ordered Monroe coil over booster shocks and bypassed the air level option by leaving the switch disconnected. Rides a little stiffer now, but handles much better.
If your transmission just suddenly stops working, there is a transmission module on this car, and it gives the signs that the transmission is bad, but the reverse works great.
Make sure you look at the transmission fluid; make sure it's not burnt. But for $13 for the transmission module, it's worth it.
Hope this works for you
At Autozone they make aftermarket airshocks that are lifetime guaranteed for a total of $75.00 for the pair.
They're easy to install, and well worth keeping the auto level setup.
They help in many ways, and it's best to keep the car working the way it should be.
Having the same problem. Stop, won't start, we think it's the factory alarm.
We have a 1995 Riviera, and the battery in our car is under the back seat.
It is the load levelers... My 95 Riv does it all the time, but it hasn't drained the battery...
What is this computer module called? My PRNDL flashes 5 times, and then the PRNDL is OK for a while. The temp. gauge is also fluctuating.
Is it easy to replace the computer?
Could be the brake booster.
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