1994 Buick Roadmaster 5.7L LT1 from North America


Nicest car I've ever owned, but not the most reliable


Replaced rear shocks, brake line, thermostat, exhaust system from cats back, front pads and rotors, flushed coolant system, emergency brake cable snapped.

New plugs, new ignition coil, 2 new tires (one exploded on me).

Bad wire from battery to fuse box under the hood.

Beginning to hear ticking from valve covers.

General Comments:

Probably my favorite car I have ever owned. It's fast, smooth and comfortable.

It hasn't run well in a couple of months, and I just keep throwing parts and time at it, and I can't find the solution. Maybe it needs a new set of wires or new Optispark. Maybe the cats are clogged or it could be a sensor or vacuum leak somewhere.

My knowledge of cars is pretty limited, and it's very frustrating to me that I can't fix it. I love this car; I just can't get it to run right. If anyone has any suggestions, I could go into detail about what's wrong with the car and maybe you could give me some suggestions. It would be greatly appreciated, as I'd hate to let it go if it's a cheap easy fix.

I've owned an 81 and an 86 Caprice, each with over 200000 miles on them, and neither ever gave me any problems besides extreme amounts of rust and rot, and minor mechanical things. I assumed I'd get the same or better from the Buick, but it hasn't been the case. Damn it, I wish I knew more about cars!

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes

Review Date: 12th November, 2014

12th Nov 2014, 21:12

Sorry to hear about your issues. I have owned 2 Roadmasters, a 1995 and currently a 1996, both sedans, and I am currently hunting for a wagon. Is your car throwing any codes? The Roadmasters have a built in diagnostics center in the climate control that I have gotten codes from, even without the light on. Also these cars have one of the best online communities, between the Buick forums and the Impala SS forums. Let me know if you want my email, and I would be willing to try to help you as best I can.

* '94s are well known for issues with the opti, as water can get into them.

22nd Dec 2014, 02:14

There are a couple of online forums for Roadies and their cousins. A lot of those people are very knowledgeable and helpful. They can point you in the right direction. The ticking may be an exhaust leak, the LT1 engine is famous for them.

11th Aug 2016, 16:37

The Roadmaster is now 22 years old. Preventive maintenance on any car stops most problems. Just listen to the car. I've owned it for 19 years and am extremely pleased with it.

A couple of tips:

Put about 4-6 oz. of thread cutting oil in the radiator. It's permanent. Never change the fluid again.

On all grounds and weatherproof fittings. Open them, put some wheel bearing (heat resistant) grease on terminals and they never fail. About 80 percent of all electrical failures are microscopic corrosion on the contacts. You can't see it.

Example - last night your TV remote worked, now it doesn't. Bang it and now it works. You moved the batteries and made new contact.

About a front end crash - there's 10' from bumper to your chest!

These tips work on ANY car.

1994 Buick Roadmaster Estate 5.7 350 from North America


Headlight switch bad when bought, then the replacement went bad.

Door panels fall apart.

Rear axle bearing.

Heater blender actuator.

Random transmission slips.

Bad oil leak.

Right bank O2 sensor 4 times.

Exhaust manifold gasket both sides.

Crack in weld between trunk and rear window.

Front driver side lug nuts have loosened. Also snapped twice.

Hood cable snapped and replacement broke inside the car.

Fuel pump.

Interior lights/door lock circuit.

Window switches and driver door motor.

VATS in ignition cylinder.

Heater blower.

General Comments:

This car has been very dependable with no MAJOR repairs.

Very fast with nice take off, and feels like you're floating on a cloud. Very spacious inside with soft seats. Smooth steering, and you can also use the climate control for vehicle diagnostics; you just have to look up the codes for a direction to start looking for what's wrong.

This car still runs smooth, and I haven't had any issues with the transmission slipping in quite a while. I would drive to a stop sign, then when I would try to drive off, it would not move. If I put it in neutral then back into drive, it would catch and be fine. Recently it was losing about 3/4 of the oil after an oil change or topping off in a day. I was told where it could be coming from, but I don't feel like pulling the engine apart to replace the gasket.

The right bank O2 sensor will go bad if you run into any big puddle. They don't have to be deep; just enough to make a nice splash, and water will get inside the connector. It took a while to figure out why they were going bad, but eventually it was solved. Water gets into the connector through the wire inputs of the harness. When this happens, the car will chug, backfire, almost stall when taking off, and misfire to where you can hear a clunk in the engine. Crazy that an O2 sensor can make you think your engine is gonna blow on you any second. After driving about 20 minutes, the car will stop showing symptoms. I've read the sensor goes into closed loop mode.

The factory headlight switch burns on these vehicles. I looked for another switch in the junk yard, and all of them were also charred with melted harness. A friend of mine had this happen in his Impala around my year also. I bought a store replacement, but it doesn't click right, and within a year the headlights went out and the switch looks fine, so I wired a relay to trigger the headlights with the parking lights.

The door panels have fallen apart badly on the driver's side, and the passenger side handle broke off.

Rear passenger axle bearing was bad on this for a while, until I looked around and read about this being a problem with Roadmasters. The axle sits on the bearings, and over time they dig a groove into the axle. You can buy a replacement bearing with a sleeve to sit on the axle, and it sits a little farther forward to avoid rubbing the old groove. To get the axle out, you must use a brass hammer or a board and a hammer to hit the hub (don't be afraid to swing hard). That will knock it in so you can remove the C clip holding the axle inside. You're looking at a few hours of work, but not a hard job. When I removed the pin holding the differential, it got a dig into it holding it in, making for about an hour job to loosen it out. I think this pin had to be removed before knocking the axle in.

Heater blender actuator went at about 235k. You'll hear a creaking noise in the dash, randomly behind the radio it sounds like. I believe it's the door trying to open.

Exhaust manifold gaskets weren't bad, but it's nice to have someone to hold them up while bolting.

The seam from the driver's edge of the trunk to the back window rusted and let a lot of water into the trunk. I tried to seal it with 3M body seam sealer, but I think it rusted too far back and leaks badly.

The driver's front wheel lugs snapped once, with only one surviving and the tire hanging on. Another times 2 or 3 broke. Another time, most of them loosened up. I can't find a reason why they were doing that.

Hood cable froze in the winter, and in the summer broke. I replaced it, and it broke in the car, and constantly comes out of the handle, so I have to hold it while pulling the lever.

Fuel pump died randomly driving down the road. Restarted a few times, then gave out. The car has a lot of miles, so if it's the original, I have no complaints.

When I have the door lock's fuse plugged in, the interior lights won't turn off. I have wired in a toggle switch to lock the door, because I didn't feel like chasing down the problem.

Driver's door window will not roll down. I can hear the motor clicking, but the window doesn't roll down. At one time only the passenger window was only working, so I replaced all the switches and the problem went away.

A common problem on these also is the VATS system. DO NOT buy a new ignition cylinder or steering column. For me, I measured the resistance on my key, then went to the steering column and cut the VATS wires (two tiny white wires) in the orange sleeve and soldered in a resistor to eliminate the key problem.

The heater blower also is an issue in these a mechanic told me. The way the connector is mounted causes them to break connection over time, and the new ones have a pig tail connecter to eliminate that.

The car has never left me stranded, and the motor still runs quiet like it has few miles on it. I'm sure it has many more in it, but the fuel in the city is horrible. I spend about 40-60 dollars a week just on driving to work and my other trips, which isn't much driving.

If you are not mechanically inclined, then this car could cost you a bit of money on repairs. The life and dependability of this motor makes it worth the hassles here and there. I don't know if I'd ever own another, but just a heads up of what to beware of when buying one of these.

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Don't Know

Review Date: 27th May, 2013

23rd Nov 2014, 04:08

Excellent review!!!