2000 Chevrolet Blazer 4.3 from North America


Overall disappointed


The first issue I had was with the transmission cooler in the radiator cracked, and filled my transmission with coolant.

Had to change numerous wheel bearings.

Door pins.

Brake calipers.

All front ball joints.

CV joints.

General Comments:

Car was great until 60000 miles, then everything started falling apart.

The motor has been solid; just a lot of other issues.

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Don't Know

Review Date: 5th January, 2011

2000 Chevrolet Blazer LS 4.3L V6 Vortec from North America


Going back to a Ford Ranger


Rear hatch lock broke as soon as I drove off the lot.

Rear wiper motor broke within 6 months of purchase.

Front bearings replaced within 60 days of purchase.

Idler arm replaced within 60 days of purchase.

Head gasket replaced within 6 months of purchase.

Fuel pump replaced within 1 year of purchase.

Entire turn signal wand broke off.

Mirror directional switch does not work anymore.

Almost forgot, the 4wd light never turns off. Even if you service the 4wd.

Driver side seat recliner handle broke off.

Battery and alternator needed replacing after 2 1/2 years.

Head lights never turn off.

Car "bucks", occasionally, when I accelerate.

Driver side door sags slightly.

Original scissor jack folded in half (the wrong way) when jacking up the car.

Dummy lights go crazy after 1 year of replacing battery and alternator.

General Comments:

I can't say I'll never buy a Chevy again, but a Blazer is most certainly out of the question.

Blazers are most definitely a money pit.

However, it's a practical vehicle to have for light duty work.

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? No

Review Date: 28th September, 2010

16th Sep 2013, 12:48

I owned a 99 Blazer.

I now drive a Ford, and I will never buy GM crap again. Ford forever.

2000 Chevrolet Blazer LS 4.3 from North America


Except for the front end design and problem with engine coolant incompatibility, it's a good vehicle


Ball joints.

Wheel bearings.

Intake manifold gasket.

Transmission solenoids.

Any work done by the dealer.

General Comments:

It's a good vehicle, except for the front suspension design causing premature wear of the ball joints and wheel bearings.

My experience has been that anyone taking the vehicle to the dealer, because the transmission loses first or second gear, is being fleeced, because the problem is a solenoid that is cheap and easy to replace.

The intake manifold gasket will fail due to coagulation of the antifreeze, coupled with the use of aluminum manifold.

My vehicle was hit twice, and one time the insurance company insisted on fixing it, replacing the frame and rear half of the vehicle. It cost more than the blue book value, and the dealer used unseen parts that failed due to impact damage.

NEVER take your vehicle to a dealer unless it's under warranty. You will be robbed.

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes

Review Date: 18th July, 2010

2000 Chevrolet Blazer LS 4.3 V6 from North America


In the shop at 62,000 miles - bad idler arm, bad steering arm, transmission leak, bad intake manifold, and brake control module bad.

General Comments:

I love it, but hope that I do not have any more repairs.

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Don't Know

Review Date: 18th January, 2010

2000 Chevrolet Blazer LS 4.3 from North America


We've replaced the upper and lower ball joints, window motors, wheel bearings, idler arm, intake gasket.

They replaced the fuel pump because the sender is also in it. To answer one of your questions... it's not the dealer trying to get more money...

I like the Blazer; it just gets crappy gas mileage. Heck, look at Fords, they do the same along with Dodges. The ball joints go out of them even worse.

So does anyone know how to get better gas mileage???

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes

Review Date: 16th January, 2010

27th Jan 2010, 17:02

Every 5 MPH you drive over 60 is like paying 20 cents more per gallon of gas. Try driving at a steady 55 MPH, with cruise control on if you've got it (cruise control can keep the throttle steady much better than your foot, using much less gas in the process.)

I drive a 2008 Honda Civic (yes I know it's a very different vehicle), and I drive no more than 55 MPH on the highway, and I follow the speed limit in town. The most mileage I've ever gotten was 48 MPG, mixed city AND highway. The Civic is only rated to get mileage in the mid- 30's. So I've got proof that you can squeeze a ton of mileage out of a car by driving slower.

I also keep my tires inflated to the proper pressure and replacing my air filter every 25,000 miles (whether I think it really needs it or not. Filter's are cheap, usually only $25).

As for motor oil, I use 10w-30 in the summer (it's more viscous, and protects engine parts better in hot temperatures) and I use the recommended 5w-20 in the winter (it's thinner and better for cold temperatures.) I've found very little difference between the two viscosity's (only about 2 MPG's.)