14th Feb 2004, 15:25

I have bought a 1997 Chevy Blazer today w/89,000 miles. It is nice and it drove very good around the town. Then the same day I went out of town and after a hour my service engine light came on, I guess my oxygen sensor could be bad. And when I came to light and ready to take off, the car jerked by changing the gear. I hope there is nothing wrong w/my transmission, and hopefully it has just something to do w/the light. The car was as is, but I hope that the dealer will still look at it. I cannot afford a transmission now, since I traded my cars and a lots of cash. Does someone has the same problems?

17th Feb 2004, 15:09

Your transmission is gone - when they're on their way out, it becomes more obvious when they get hot (been there and done that). Your engine light was turned off, the problem never fixed, and it takes a little while for the service engine light to come back on (ie - the dealer cleared the codes before you drove it, and odds are it's something simple, not cheap, but simple and was messed up even during your terst drive. May be your tranny sending the code to the computer, too). I would venture to guess that the dealer probably pulled one over on you, and unless they are an exception, you're in for it with this one... Sorry about your luck.

I don't have time now, but I'll be adding my '97 Bravada experience soon. Fortunately I bought the extended warranty - the $9000 for the vehicle is nothing relative to what has been invested for repairs, and it's just under 100K miles. Stay tuned for easy repair tips on some of the common & simple items (rear wiper, front wiper board, heating problems, etc) and a list of what I can recall was fixed (or repaired for now...:)

18th Feb 2004, 00:45

I feel your pain, fellow Blazer owners. I have a 97 Chevy Blazer and I've had similar problems. I may be able to help a few of you, also.

- Oil Leak = There is a known problem of Blazer's leaking oil. The connection for the oil filter, by design, is at the back of the engine. The modification in to make it convenient to change the oil was a rubber tube with metal ends. After a period of time, these metal ends either rub through the tubing or the tubing cracks. That's your leak, although I can't recall the name of the part. The dealer did the work for me for $300 or so.

- Stalling or not starting (goes dead while driving) = Bad ignition and/or ignition wiring. Replacement only $500-$700.

- Rust in transmission dip stick tube = known recall. Check with the dealer, although may be too late now. Had mine done 4 years ago.

- Replaced radiator = sprung a leak

- Flushed heater core = no heat. Dexacool broke down and clogged it.

- Replaced heater core = Started leaking.

- Replaced left-front hub assembly = Rubbing noise that sounded like I had 20inch knobby tires on the thing. Bearings were out. Firestone said there was nothing wrong with the bearings.

- Idler arm and Pitman arm = Found during safety inspection.

- Idler arm and Pitman arm = Found when investigating knobby tire rubbing noise. Not fixed a second time.

- Rear wiper washer not working = Probably out of fluid. Just kidding. Don't know source of problem.

- Gas gauge not working = I use trip-ometer. When I am at 300 miles, I'm running on fumes. If the oil change guy resets it, I go get a fill up. :) Must be the sending unit in the tank. I'll replace it this summer... if it lasts that long.

- Transmission Problems = Hard shifting and not shifting down under load. Probably valve body, but nothing done yet.

- Vibration in external mirrors = sick driver. I figured it was my replacement of that mirror when I snapped it off against the side of my garage... until I read this forum and found I was not alone.

- "Service Engine Soon" light = Not serviced yet. Will look at the EGR valve for this one.

- Replaced alternator.

- Replaced battery.

- Replaced water pump = sprung a leak.

- Patched tire = Either ran over a nail in my friends driveway, or they are manufacturing tires with nails in them from the start.

- Replaced ignition switch wire (twice) = Wire fried both times. Not sure what the problem was/is. I carry tools and parts to do an on-the-road replacement, if necessary.

That's it for me... so far.

13th Apr 2004, 15:46

I have a 97 chevy blazer. I can't get the electrical system to charge. I replaced the alternator, but still can only get 10 or 11 volts out of it. my battery is good, what else could it be?

12th Jun 2004, 10:54

I own a 97 GMC Jimmy, which I purchased new. I have experienced many of the same problems previously mentioned in this forum. The vehicle is a nice looking vehicle for 7 years of age and only has 67k miles, but it has been a maintenance nightmare. I am on my 3rd alternator, 3rd water pump and 4th battery. The transmission was leaking and had to be rebuilt under warranty at 20k miles. I have replaced the ignition switch twice, in Oct 2000 at 44k miles and again in August 2003 at 64k. The a/c compressor went out in 2002 at 55k miles. I also have the rusty transmission dipstick, which someone else has also previously mentioned. In addition, just this week the wipers quit working as my wife was driving home from work in a rainstorm. She had to pull off of the road and pull on the wiper arms to get them started. I searched Alldata and other websites and found that there is an extended recall on some mid 90's GM trucks for wiper motor modules, but the dealer and GMC both tell me that my vin # is not included in the recall. Thus, I had to have it repaired at my own expense. Also, fuel consumption has always been a problem. I only get around 15mpg around town and 18 on the highway. In comparison, I also own a V8, 4.6, Mercury Grand Marquis that gets 21 in town and 28 on the highway. The Jimmy's 4.3 Vortec is nice engine with plenty of power, but all in all this GMC Jimmy has nickeled and dimed me to death.

17th Jul 2004, 11:54

I bought a 97 Blazer a few month ago. It only had 42,000 miles and I thought it was a steal. Since then, I've had problems with the transmission slipping, strong smell of gasoline when I accelerate or turn corners, air conditioner only blow through the vents when it wants to, and gas gage not working. It looks good though!

1st Sep 2004, 11:10

I own a 1997 chevy s10 with the 4.3 and I have had several problems with it myself, fuel pump, ac compressor, and that darn heat, what heat. the dealer and the extended warranty company did not want to repair it for me. so I did some investigating last year, THEY DO KNOW ABOUT THE DEXCOOL!!!, the dealers were sent a bulletin about it, it says that the coolant "coagulates" when mixed with air. I told them that I have never opened the system since the owners manual says the coolant is good for over 100,000 miles, therefore the radiator cap was bad, and a faulty radiator cap would therefore cover a system flush, with my persistence the agreed to pay for the $400 flush. the heater worked for about 6 months, now no more heat, its time for me to get that dexcool out and replace it with the green stuff since I am out of warranty now. my alternator is now going out also as well as my intake leaking antifreeze. I hope for no more problems with my truck.