19th May 2010, 04:11

This comment is for "2nd May 2010, 19:19 My son has a 97 Blazer. Let it run out of gas"

Good chance running it dry burned out the fuel pump. When he turns the ignition to ON, does the pump kick in? If not, that is probably what the problem is, once he gets it fixed, tell him not to let his gas take get below 1/4 tank. That way it won't happen again.

I've had my 97 Blazer for 3 years now, and haven't had to change the fuel pump yet because I always fill up at 1/4 tank.

Hope this helps. Good luck.

26th Nov 2010, 07:26

I have a 97 Blazer with 197k that I've had for 5 years. It's never left me on the side of the road. I'm a stickler about maintenance. Always change only at 2000 miles, and lube it the same time. It get a coolant flush every fall (Aug) and a bath once a week.

Instead of having a loan payment, I save $300 a month to act like a loan payment. That way I have extra money for repairs. Been doing that since I've owned it.

I love my ride... Looks good and drives smooth. I get about 17mpg with it, and can tow a large trailer.

Most expensive repair I've done was intake gaskets. More time than money.

Keep it clean and lubed, and they'll go forever.

18th Mar 2011, 20:50

Pretty well all of your complaints are very common for this vehicle. But you have to remember, it is a 1997, and not a 2007.

The rear wiper has a problem with the shaft that sticks thru the tail gate; it seizes up. This can be fixed by taking the wiper motor transmission box apart, and knocking the shaft out and lubricating it. The front wiper is a pulse board problem. It's on the wiper motor beside the brake booster. The part is about $30, and is held in with 3 screws; a very easy fix.

Now for the easiest fix. The most common reason why the interior lights will not go of is because the switch on the ceiling by the rear hatch, the one for your cargo light, has been flipped to the on position. Just turn it off, and voila, it's fixed. Don't feel bad as this one can fool the best, and we all feel stupid after trying to hunt down the problem, only to find that the cargo light was left on.

27th Apr 2011, 15:19

Hi, actually as long as you get a 96 Tahoe or older, you will be OK. If not, your V6 puts out 190-195hp, and the 95 Tahoe came really underpowered at 200hp. In 96 they were outfitted with a Vortec V8 with an output of 250+, so I would really make sure you don't go older than a 1995.

Good Luck.

7th Oct 2011, 02:47

I have a 97 S-10 Blazer 2wd. It now has 172,000 miles, and I have only done minor repairs and upkeep. I love this thing.

14th Dec 2011, 23:49

I have a 95 Chevy Blazer LS, and I've had it for years, and always took care of it. Then I gave it to my sister, she had it for 7 years, and now I have it again, and boy did she do a number on it, so now I'm paying a good chunk for a lot of parts.

To me, it's just how you take care of your Blazer. It has more than 200k, and still goes out of town.

27th Dec 2011, 21:24

I have had to pull the fuse on my '97 Blazer at 150,000 miles also. NOT from rear cargo light on. Sometimes it'll go off. It's the door hinge. I'm on my third one, door hinge that is. If the door opens ALL the way, like if you have to hold it with your foot, or on hill, or to keep the wind from slamming your leg, it no longer lines up. I've spent SO many nights getting in and out in the dark.

I wound up in a traffic stop, 40 cops, LINES of cars, checking EVERYTHING. When he asked me to blow the horn, I told him I had to pull the fuse. He said oh, a Blazer. Get it fixed. Then laughed.

I've replaced the fuel pump, water pump, the spare FELL OFF from under the truck. Thank god in a parking lot.

Have had it not start, and couldn't get it out of the sloped driveway, because it will not go in reverse, and the key wouldn't come out.

Overheated when the water pump went, had to replace the radiator from that, and now the trans is slipping. With only 150,000. Am wondering if keeping it is worth it?

10th Feb 2012, 19:59

Sounds like your heater core is starting to go out. Which most vehicles, you have to take the dash completely out of the vehicle to access the heater core. Depending on what vehicle you're working on, a new heater core can range from $50 to $100.

2nd Mar 2012, 20:39

It's not Chevy, it's the people that own them and not take care of them. Hell, I have a 97 Chevy Blazer with 242.000 miles on it, and nothing wrong. It runs like a champ, and it has a V6 Vortec.

3rd Mar 2012, 08:35

I love my 97 Chevy Blazer. Just need a transmission.

3rd Mar 2012, 09:33

Oh yeah, blame the owner, not the vehicle...

12th Mar 2012, 19:51

My front and rear hatch buttons don't work, my back up lights don't work, and my stick shift is stuck in Park. Can't get my transmission into gear.. What do I do to fix this??? Does anybody know? Please help if you can.. Thanks.

30th Jun 2013, 18:43

I have a 97 Jimmy, and found when wipers start giving problems, most the time it's an easier fix than you may think. I replaced the module on the motors, front wipers and back, for under $20 each, problem solved. Took about 15 minutes to do each. Too many times everyone assumes a bad wiper motor, which is way more expensive to change.

8th Dec 2015, 07:18

I had issues getting the key out of my 97 Blazer as well. The only difference is that I was on a very long mountainous road, it was extremely slick out, and while going uphill, all of a sudden I went from 40 mph to having my speedometer topped out and I had my foot off the gas... tried the brakes, had all my body weight on them, and they barely pressed down, not working at all. I'm now going downhill and decide to throw it into neutral. I failed to mention that the RPM was off the chart... when I threw her into neutral, it revved up even higher. The key would still not release.

I ended up at the bottom of the hill, turning wide into the oncoming traffic's lane, barely missing the other cars, all so I could do a 90 degree turn into a side road, which mind you is much slicker than the main drag... I managed to pull it off (impressed myself even LOL), hit the side road, which threw me into a spin and into the snowbank, even still revved up full board. I threw it into park, key still would not release, so I shut it off.

Gained my composure... felt like I was in a really bad episode of Carrie. Reluctantly I started it back up and put it in reverse... so far so good, I slowly headed back to the main road, and here came round two...

I didn't have near as much time nor leeway before I hit the main road, and thought I was surely going to end up killing someone, and I knew that there was no way I could pull off the 90 degree turn coming off the side road, and would end up flying off the other side... so I bypassed all the other attempts and threw it straight into park. My composure was not as easily gained now, so I decided it best to try and take it slow and get as close to home as possible. Mind you it is thirty below and no one was answering their phone... so I started her up and slowly headed uphill, almost to the top, and yep you guessed it... round three.

The side street I needed to turn on is always slick, and there was traffic approaching the stop sign. Turning there and not wiping the other vehicles out was impossible, so I had to pass; it was headed uphill again, full speed, no brakes and the key not coming out... if I didn't get it stopped real soon, my dog and I were dead, because just a few blocks ahead the road went from straight and extreme hills, to very curvy; there was no way at high speed on slick roads we would have made it. So I threw it into park again... now when going full speed to park, everything from the back flew forward, and what didn't hit us or the floor when jolted, threw back again. I am now stopped in a blind spot right in the middle of the road... hazards won't turn on... this happened about three weeks ago. I'm in no hurry to drive it again, that's for sure.

I also have almost all of the other problems as well... electrical problems, the radio, heater and 4X4 short out... The brutes don't work at all, and yes I've changed the bulbs. Rear wiper doesn't work, rear hatch won't latch, headlight switch has to be in just the right spot or there are no dash lights, interior lights don't work.

Pin fell out of driver's door, which caused the door to come off LOL, and I want to throw in that once a month I check the fluids and give the needed parts a little lube, so I more than make sure I keep up on the maintenance. So for those who say it depends on how it is taken care of, I beg to differ on this particular make and model.

24th Jan 2016, 04:52

My 97 Chevy Blazer seem to have the same problems. New problem, won't pass smog, no codes on the computer, computer has no memory of any engine lights, and will not pass readiness test.

3rd Apr 2016, 17:02

Please, I have a problem with my GM Blazer 97 model. It will not start in the morning, but if I drug it, it starts, why? Someone please help.

15th Sep 2017, 15:32

I bought my 97 Blazer last summer with 230,000 miles on it. Since buying it I have had to replace the battery = $89, O2 sensors = $60, catalytic converter = $400, transmission mounted speed sensor = $159, air intake = $160, an oil change = $39.99, and replaced the spark plug wires due to one of them burning up = $30. No leaks until I got the oil changed. Now it leaks a few drops every time I warm it up. It seems to be leaking from the front somewhere. Fun times.