15th Mar 2007, 23:15
I just purchase a chevy97 ls 4x4. can anyone tell me how do you know that the 4x4 is working or ingaGE. I press the 4x4 button and it lights up, but I'm still want to know how I know it is working correctly. thank you.
1st Apr 2007, 18:23
"Service engine soon light comes on, stays lit" - check your gas cap to be sure it's tight. Even after tightening, it may take several miles for the light to go off. Otherwise, see a mechanic for electronic diagnosis ($150 or so).
My Blazer after 112,000 has been trouble-free other than replacing the transmission during a cross-country move... the dorks at one of those fast lube places didn't check and top off the fluid although they marked the inspection sheet 'full'. Recently, my Blazer is unpredictably stalling, but instantly restarting. Sometimes the air bag or another 'start-up' light will flash, telling me the engine just quit and restarted, other times the car conks out and I have to start it while coasting. Replaced the fuel filter and had injectors cleaned. Problem continued, so now I'm replacing the fuel pump and getting new ignition wires/ cap. Any other ideas?
2nd Apr 2007, 19:50
Be sure that when you fuel you blazer to not have you truck running at the pump, as this will throw the sensor's off and send you a code. Just drive the blazer for awhile and make sure the fuel cap is tight. It should reset itself. If not, take to a shop and have it reset.
12th Apr 2007, 10:19
Thanks for the "Service Engine Soon" light info. My latest issue now is that I have no heat, I noticed the engine temperature is running higher than normal, and I smell an odor like burnt antifreeze when I exit my car after I park it. not sure if this is the heater core deal or if it could be a clogged radiator system.
18th Apr 2007, 09:40
I bought a 97 Blazer about 2 years ago. It only had around 78,000 miles and I gave $5,000 which wasn't a bad deal. It hasn't been a bad vehicle so far, but I have made some repairs and am in need of a few more. The first thing I did was have the transmission flushed. It was slipping a little and the fluid looked dirty so I went ahead and had it changed, but it still seems to be slipping a little in reverse. The balljoints were getting bad so I had Moog balljoints installed. I shouldn't have to do that again. I need a new driver side window motor. It will roll down about an inch and then start slipping. It could be a window regulator,I'm not sure. My gas hand doesn't work right and I've seen a lot of others complaining about that on here. When I fill it up it goes all the way to full like it should, but when it's about half a tank is when it messes up. Sometimes the wipers don't work right so I have to get out and jiggle the wires a little and it works fine. May be a lose connection. Motor wise it has been a good vehicle. The 4.3 v-6 is a heck of a motor and will go forever. It seems to be mainly mechanical stuff. I have been driving Chevy's all my life and don't plan on stopping now. I know every manufacture makes a bad apple and it appears that the 97 Blazer was one of them!
Well it is May 3rd and I have a few new things to add to my comments. Since I posted this a few days ago my drive belt tensioner went bad so I had to replace that. My water pump started leaking so I am in the process of changing that too. I bought a new window motor and hope that's what the problem is. As far as the fuel gauge problem..I bought a fuel sensor kit and plan on installing it over the weekend. I will let you know if that fixes the problem.
It was the sensor! It works fine now. Cost around 60.00 for the part.
26th Apr 2007, 13:52
I have a 1997 Blazer and have similar issues; but overall, like the vehicle. My heater fan works only when it wants to. The switch is new (I replaced it when it broke) and I also replaced the resistor block hoping that was the problem. Now I am thinking it may be the blower fan motor itself. Anyone else have this issue?
Another issue is the fuel gauge that works about half the time. Has anyone discovered what it takes to repair this issue?
30th Apr 2007, 15:53
The ignition switch may need to be replaced that is what mine did when the switch started to go bad.
15th May 2007, 08:55
I to have most of the same problems with my 1997 S-10 Blazer (LT) 120,000 Miles; transmission dipstick rust, alternator (1), battery (5), brakes (lost count, but at least 5 front sets and 2 rear), intake manifold leaking, heater core replaced, (DEXCOOL) spark plugs, rotor and distributor (2), gas gauge (still not repaired... using odometer) serpentine belt (4), transmission flush, radiator flush (2), and today... read differential axle seal leaking. It never stops... time for a Honda, Toyota, etc...
19th May 2007, 14:06
I have owned my 1997 Jimmy SLS from day one and it now has about 105,000KM on it. Like a couple of others I have had a few problems, but nothing to the extent most have posted.
Recently however my rear wiper stopped working in the on position. When I push the switch now nothing happens, however last night when I pushed it the wiper moved about an inch. Any suggestions?
28th May 2007, 15:34
I agree with all of you Blazers suck. My girlfriend has the 97. In the last cpl of weeks the a/c went out, but it comes on every now and then. I think its the blower fan (or whatever) because I don't get any air when the key is turned to on. So its weird to me. Goodluck.
30th May 2007, 23:05
I have a 2001 blazer with 4wd. When I push the 4wd button it does engage the 4wd, but it says "service 4wd" what could this mean is wrong with the 4wd system?
9th Jun 2007, 18:32
With all do respect, Please do not ever buy a 1997 Blazer. I have had nothing, but problems and I'm still under a 100K. I'm doing myself a favor and selling it while it is running right. Gl to everyone else who owns one.
10th Jun 2007, 00:06
I bought the 1997 2D Blazer LS for the low miles it had, but reading these comments is making me nervous, if we read this we wouldn't have bought it. I am about to replace the fuel pump assembly, because the pump is out and the gas gauge has never worked, they sold it to me with a full tank of gas. I replaced the U-joints weeks ago, but I've been offroad and in heavy snow so it is a typical fix @ 105,000 miles and not very difficult or expensive... I will be flushing the radiator, I noticed some gook in there... the engine is clean and has been a good truck for me really, but after reading this forum I know not to be surprised when parts start failing...DON'T buy the fuel pump and assembly for $330, when you can get it at a scrap yard for $50.